Wednesday, 8 June 2011

Savalan - hitchhiking in Iran - Astara

There is so much happening these days that it is almost impossible to note everything down. Next I want to tell about the day when me, Miso and Amir decided to go hiking. Hiking I love a lot but this was something very new for me. We went to the 3rd highest mountain in Iran Savalan which is about 4800m high. So far the highest point I have reached is slightly over 2000 meters back in Slovakia.
So we left Tabriz in the noon taking shared taxies and other types of the cheapest transportation towards the village Shabel, just beneath the hill. It was not easy to get here for cheap money, taxi drivers tend to double the prices when they see tourists even though there is a local guy with us. We started to walk from the big parking in the village towards the camp (3500m high) which we were told was almost an hour by off road vehicle or 4 hours walking. It was already late, around half past six or even seven o’clock, I cannot remember exactly. After first few meters I decided to go off the road and try to go ‘alternative’ free way (it would not be me if I did not). Amir wanted to go with me but Miso did not feel like going a bit steeper. Here our ways separated and soon after it started to rain – snow. It was the first welcome said by Savalan. Fortunately this not so nice weather did not take too long to clear and we could happily hike further without a need of our waterproof equipment (here I must note that Amir is a brave guy, not taking too much care about these aspects of hiking). As we went up further, I could not resist going my own tempo and so I left Amir behind, from time to time whistling loud to make sure he is still behind. At some point, or 2½ hours later I could see the camp in distance and also Amir behind so I just went back to the road (it was also slowly getting dark). I reached the camp first, of course, few minutes after sunset. Miso arrived approximately 20 minutes after me, but surprisingly we were missing one more member, Amir. In the meantime the weather has changed again, into a storm with rain, snow and wind as a bonus. We tried to call Amir with no success, the reception in this area was very poor. After waiting over an hour we with hope that he would be in some other part of camp area, decided to hide in our sleeping bags and get a little rest before an early morning ascend. Maybe 30 minutes later, silence of the night was suddenly disturbed by voice calling my name, which I could recognise straight away. I ran outside and saw Amir covered with his sleeping bag walking towards the camp. He was all wet and freezing (it was I think around -2 degree Celsius). Brave Amir was hiking to the last minute away from the road and had no torch to find his way to camp after sunset and during the snow/rain although he was only few hundreds meters away.
We helped him out of the wet clothes, borrowed him some of our drier stuff and covered in whatever we assumed would keep the guy warm. It seemed to help and so we could rest. At 5am we got up, going to look for Amir’s rucksack as he left it somewhere under the rock, where he was hiding from the bad weather. In this height there was still fair amount of snow and my thirst told me to cross one of these snowy islands to drink fresh mountain water. What I could have predicted was that my feet might get under the snow into the little river beneath… Few seconds later and water was pouring into my boots. And here is where my attempt was over. Gladly Miso was all ready as the only well prepared hiker, and 4 hours later reached the holy lake at the top of this volcano. We are all happy and share this fortune with him or rather he shares it with us?)

Hitchhiking in Iran is possible. First elder man has taken out of the Tabriz city, stopping and asking traffic policeman to send me safely for the bus. I managed to explain to this polite English-speaking police guy that I had no money to spend on transportation and wanted to take a ride with someone who went my direction for free. In few seconds he stopped the car going my way and two young guys agreed to take me. All fine until we reached their destination and when they asked for money. Well it is hard to explain, when we do not speak the same language. One of these gentlemen tryed to speak to nearby standing policeman, but after few minutes policeman left and so have I. Next ride was a happy one. During my German language practice I was also fed by the driver’s mother-co-pilot. Arriving to Ardebil, still about 70km from Astara – my Kaspian Sea destination, I have met these crazy geezers who made me roller-skate and listen to forbidden metal music. I suffered a lot because they also fed me with some tasty Iranian pizza and gave an evil hand band, which I could not take of my hand until this very moment. Then they drove me to Astara although they were not planning to leave Ardebil. Bad!!!
After a romantic but evil night in my tent at free beach camp, I got up into rainy morning. Fresh bread and cheese becoming my breakfast for 1 dollar, I spent some time looking for a shop with sim cards, so I could get an Iranian number(0(098)9376429971). At some point I met this guy called Payam who is Iranian kick-box champion with the sweetest voice and good guitar skill. With his help I bought a female scarf in my favorite green color. After this success he invited me to his home for lunch. Now I say that I thought I would be hungry more often than ‘not hungry’ but reality is far from it. I think people here feel sorry when they look at me and always try to feed me like a little piggy. Well I am pink and have funny tails… Before meal was ready Payam has entertained me with his music performance. Thumbs up though it is not really my cup of tea. Later before foody-experience we checked their colorful and fruity garden which tasted sweet and smelled like honey.
For lunch his mother cooked delicious fish which was served with local rice and some other goodies, I could not stop eating until all plates were empty. This I needed to burn and so we went to the beach, meeting some crazy fishing guys. Why crazy? You can come and see for yourself. Payam then had a great idea getting a motorbike and having a ride into a local jungles. Rice fields, bee hives, hills and GREEN, everything in this area is green and yes I must not forget, I was riding a bike after so many years and that was a cherry on the top of another great day.
I am loving this trip BIG time! Thank you all people who have fun with me.

4 comments:

  1. Glad to hear you doing well in Iran. In case you'd get stuck somewhere with internet access and time to read, you may find useful to read this: http://www.couchsurfing.org/group_read.html?gid=1190&post=8305286
    Some recent experience crossing Iranian/Pakistani border written by fellow CS HHiker.

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  2. Thank you very much for this information, I have changed my route and will fly over Pakistan, which a shame but instead will visit Bangladesh...
    Btw do I know you? i could not recognise your nick...

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  3. It's never easy to respond this question. Let's say you know Me, but don't know mE, however it's still only me..

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  4. Savalan - hitchhiking in Iran - Astara....Wow new idea I love lot but this is something very new for me but I enjoy more.Here I learn Some recent experience that's are more essential for me.

    Boombox

    ReplyDelete