In Santi Niketan it has become a routine to ride a bike carelessly around the villages nearby, it is very good relax for me in the end of the day. At theater house I could get closer to rise harvesting process, all by hand, one by one... It also makes it taste much better knowing that it has been growing just outside the dinning room. Cooking with Sadu can be as joyful as riding a bike. He is a great cook and makes sure we all eat healthy meals, though the dinner time... well Sadu is in no hurry. Day before last he gave me a task to buy 1 kilo of chicken and a wine - yes Sadu likes his booze and smoke - although I could not find the wine shop I managed to get a chicken to meet his expectations, they slaughtered it in front of me so it was very fresh and... dead! No sight for vegetarian. Happy again to cook my favorite green-beans-creamy soup, it was good enough to be eaten by everybody, or perhaps they just did not want to touch my fragile cooking-feelings. I also visited the famous Tagore's university and I had good feelings about that. Very peaceful like whole village and relaxed place, great idea for learning environment.
Btw I want to say that I can not be much bothered taking pictures with digital camera, it is a hassle to use both, so I will present pictures from my film camera ones I am back, if the films survive my intense travel loads. Already have troubles with the other Yashica, the exposure-meter device does not want to work, if you have any ideas please do not hesitate to suggest (i hope it is only metal plate - poor contacts).
Issue raises when you want to book a long distance train, as it might be booked out for weeks, depending on destination. Fortunately I found the rail ticketing office, where I could book a ticket to Mumbai, bloody Mumbai.
I gave my farewell to Santi Niketan and took a train in the evening back to Kolkata, where I spent a night at the station, with many other 'waiting people'... It is actually not bad to do it this way, they have according facilities (shower I appreciated the most). At 8:20am my train left the Howrah(Kolkata) station - I had a berth in a sleeper for 656 Rupees. Such a journey can really drain a body especially if adding a digestion problems and not proper diet. Fortunately I bought nice book of Mr Tagore's selected short stories which kept me well entertained. Yes, I managed to read almost whole book as we arrived to Mumbai 2 days later at around 2 in the morning. Then I had not too many choices, I could stay at the station with a lot of other people but as my diarrhea worsened in the meantime I decided to find a cheap hotel. I do not know how cheap or expensive it was in the end but I payed 600 rupees for a room with a towel instead of bathroom, funny but sufficient. In the morning I had to argue over 10 Rupees when they charged me 50 instead of 40 for omelet - which was the price in menu in my room, though in the end I found out that the prices they had were all mixed up... I can only say this is very typical, but they payed me back.
And now I am so looking forward the beaches of Goa...
Thursday, 28 July 2011
Saturday, 23 July 2011
grIndia
Customs at the border made no problems and everything went smooth and quick. I have involuntary gained a guide at this stage, who would be kind enough to help, help spending some money definitely. West Bengal craziness is not much different from that one in Bangladesh, but its 'businessmen' seem to be a bit smarter and more experienced.
I took a train to Kolkata. This regional capital and fairly big city too, metropolitan-wise one of biggest in India, I reached late in the evening and was not easy to find a shelter though I managed but not cheap at all. The streets of the city at this our do show its raw and rough face. Dark and dirty, busy with dogs barking and fighting, cockroaches running from side to side, people sleeping on all sorts of spots and surfaces... Next morning I checked out and purchased my Indian sim+phone for 1200 Indian Rupees all together and with good old (British imported) bureaucracy it only took half an hour, requiring passport + 1 photocopy, one photo and a present address in India - all this for pre-paid sim? Using a phone in India you should be ready for piles of spam in form of SMS or non-human calls at least 1-2 a day. But always buy me a better mood with very refreshing a freshly squeezed juice/lemonade which is sold anywhere in the streets.
Later in the day after failing to find a host via CS I accommodated myself in the dormitory for 90 Rupees a night. This was non-clean nor dirty hotel in Sudder Street - which is full of foreigners and therefore many adequate places to stay. The same day I met Ash who was kind enough to show me around and explain few simple principles on living in India, tips and tricks which I may find useful. Price for meal may vary from 20 to 300 depending on what are you having and most importantly where it is being served. Next day I had a blind date with another CSer who has taken me for drinks and foods in rather fancier places(for me fancier place means that with AC and clean environment;) where prices were still not so high. I decided to have some beers and as it looked OK I took a meaty dish - Nepalese pork dumplings - Momo. Later we enjoyed more beers and Indian whiskey at another bar with people plus some extras from Czech Republic.
I was not feeling 100% since I came to India and it culminated early in the morning being sick and spending most of the morning in the toilet. All I ate whole day was water and managed to drink 2 plain toasts. Being strong but resting in the bed for all day I was new born next day though with not much energy left. Proper food and a dose of fruits have made stand on my feet again and I could be touring around Kolkata with my new Czech friends. We have visited the Victoria Monument - White House/Taj Mahal hybrid - I still can not believe I payed 150 Rupees to get in, although the museum was worth it.
After visiting few more places and a time spent looking for pickled gherkins but failing we made it to Czech guys host's place where I helped to prepare some chicken schnitzel with alternated potato salad, which we fed to amount of people. Splashing such a meal with a cold Indian lager may sound simple but at the time very pleasant. Especially when surrounded by young and nutty Indian law students...
Next day I returned to my hotel, picked my stuff, got bone-wet right after taking a shower in a pouring rain and at noon I have been on the train to Santi Niketan, where I was to find a peace and rest after crazy days in Kolkata meeting and staying with my dear Italian friends whom I met in Dhaka. I am staying at the theater house in the middle of jungle, with few people looking after the property and its surroundings and Sadu, the spiritual guard of the place and a great cook in one...
I took a train to Kolkata. This regional capital and fairly big city too, metropolitan-wise one of biggest in India, I reached late in the evening and was not easy to find a shelter though I managed but not cheap at all. The streets of the city at this our do show its raw and rough face. Dark and dirty, busy with dogs barking and fighting, cockroaches running from side to side, people sleeping on all sorts of spots and surfaces... Next morning I checked out and purchased my Indian sim+phone for 1200 Indian Rupees all together and with good old (British imported) bureaucracy it only took half an hour, requiring passport + 1 photocopy, one photo and a present address in India - all this for pre-paid sim? Using a phone in India you should be ready for piles of spam in form of SMS or non-human calls at least 1-2 a day. But always buy me a better mood with very refreshing a freshly squeezed juice/lemonade which is sold anywhere in the streets.
Later in the day after failing to find a host via CS I accommodated myself in the dormitory for 90 Rupees a night. This was non-clean nor dirty hotel in Sudder Street - which is full of foreigners and therefore many adequate places to stay. The same day I met Ash who was kind enough to show me around and explain few simple principles on living in India, tips and tricks which I may find useful. Price for meal may vary from 20 to 300 depending on what are you having and most importantly where it is being served. Next day I had a blind date with another CSer who has taken me for drinks and foods in rather fancier places(for me fancier place means that with AC and clean environment;) where prices were still not so high. I decided to have some beers and as it looked OK I took a meaty dish - Nepalese pork dumplings - Momo. Later we enjoyed more beers and Indian whiskey at another bar with people plus some extras from Czech Republic.
I was not feeling 100% since I came to India and it culminated early in the morning being sick and spending most of the morning in the toilet. All I ate whole day was water and managed to drink 2 plain toasts. Being strong but resting in the bed for all day I was new born next day though with not much energy left. Proper food and a dose of fruits have made stand on my feet again and I could be touring around Kolkata with my new Czech friends. We have visited the Victoria Monument - White House/Taj Mahal hybrid - I still can not believe I payed 150 Rupees to get in, although the museum was worth it.
After visiting few more places and a time spent looking for pickled gherkins but failing we made it to Czech guys host's place where I helped to prepare some chicken schnitzel with alternated potato salad, which we fed to amount of people. Splashing such a meal with a cold Indian lager may sound simple but at the time very pleasant. Especially when surrounded by young and nutty Indian law students...
Next day I returned to my hotel, picked my stuff, got bone-wet right after taking a shower in a pouring rain and at noon I have been on the train to Santi Niketan, where I was to find a peace and rest after crazy days in Kolkata meeting and staying with my dear Italian friends whom I met in Dhaka. I am staying at the theater house in the middle of jungle, with few people looking after the property and its surroundings and Sadu, the spiritual guard of the place and a great cook in one...
Sunday, 17 July 2011
Cat eats dog eats mouse eats monkey eats you
==I am listening to Ani DiFranco, delightful music, perhaps you shall play it while reading==
When leaving the 'cyber-cafe' where I wrote last post, down in Khulna, I asked some youngsters just outside whether they could recommend a cheap accommodation. As they were not sure, asking 'elder' next door who turned out to be Bob from CS, whom I sent a request earlier - there is at least one million people living in this city. Do we call it what? This gentleman offered a place to stay instead his home at the house of father Mathew, missionary place next orphanage run by these people. Very interesting experience and talks I had with those participating. I could feel good intentions with a little nastiness accompanying it. I mean they run youth camps, orphanage, help the poor, what is the price for it? You shall follow Christianity. OK. For kids from street it is better than nothing but I just can not help myself thinking this is so inappropriate way of helping others. I had chance of talking to people about much more progressive ideas and these ideas are already applied and work. For example there are schools which are more or less run by kids themselves - school owns a land which is cultivated by them - for example they grow fruits which when sold become sufficient source of income - and it may by anything, handycraft etc. So kids are spending bit more time in school studying and helping to run these facilities. It is also a way of learning a practical subject as well as theoretical. This I find a great idea in country like Bangladesh. So 'only donation' based organisation I found old-fashioned and inefficient, if there is not enough funds they simply cannot exist.
Anyway, pastor and head-staff working for this Christian organisation seemed to be well-off. They showed hospitality to me for which I had to pay though it was up to me how much, the 'have to' in pastor's sentence when asking for donation is never necessary - well it rather puts me off and I tend to give less if any.
During my stay in Khulna I visited Sunderbans - the largest mangrove forest in the world - mangrove is kind of trees which grow where fresh meets marine water, it is place where you can find animals such as Bengali Tiger, I fortunately have not met any (yes, there is dozens of people eaten by this cat each year in the area). I have seen some macaques and many crabs and shrimps which are also specific for this area. In the artificial pond there was a crocodile which wanted to eat me but I did not feel like letting him.
Finding a boat to Sunderbans may be challenging if you are not willing to spend a fortune and people around the mole sometimes really get on nerves. I mean this may happen everywhere, people sometimes approach me, 'an obvious(and of course veeeeeeeeeeeeeeery rich) tourist' and try to sell their goods and NO must be repeated several times in better case. One gets used to it quickly in order to enjoy whatever there is to be enjoyed.
From Khulna I took a bus to Kustia, the home of Fakir Lalon Shah the religious man of no religion, philosopher and poet who did not want to be casted or classed. Here I meet many real elders and real gurus of knowledge, spirituality, traditional Bengali music, painting, hand-crafts... Here I have chance to observe and talk the spirituality and means of life. Analising the core of our thoughts analising ourselves, the self-realisation.
Life is very complicated but very simple, balanced. I first need to understand myself before attempting to understand others. One of the top quotes: 'The God is us.' Few days at the hatchery furthered a big step the knowledge of my own self.
If you are looking for a spiritual journeys you should never miss this place.
When leaving the 'cyber-cafe' where I wrote last post, down in Khulna, I asked some youngsters just outside whether they could recommend a cheap accommodation. As they were not sure, asking 'elder' next door who turned out to be Bob from CS, whom I sent a request earlier - there is at least one million people living in this city. Do we call it what? This gentleman offered a place to stay instead his home at the house of father Mathew, missionary place next orphanage run by these people. Very interesting experience and talks I had with those participating. I could feel good intentions with a little nastiness accompanying it. I mean they run youth camps, orphanage, help the poor, what is the price for it? You shall follow Christianity. OK. For kids from street it is better than nothing but I just can not help myself thinking this is so inappropriate way of helping others. I had chance of talking to people about much more progressive ideas and these ideas are already applied and work. For example there are schools which are more or less run by kids themselves - school owns a land which is cultivated by them - for example they grow fruits which when sold become sufficient source of income - and it may by anything, handycraft etc. So kids are spending bit more time in school studying and helping to run these facilities. It is also a way of learning a practical subject as well as theoretical. This I find a great idea in country like Bangladesh. So 'only donation' based organisation I found old-fashioned and inefficient, if there is not enough funds they simply cannot exist.
Anyway, pastor and head-staff working for this Christian organisation seemed to be well-off. They showed hospitality to me for which I had to pay though it was up to me how much, the 'have to' in pastor's sentence when asking for donation is never necessary - well it rather puts me off and I tend to give less if any.
During my stay in Khulna I visited Sunderbans - the largest mangrove forest in the world - mangrove is kind of trees which grow where fresh meets marine water, it is place where you can find animals such as Bengali Tiger, I fortunately have not met any (yes, there is dozens of people eaten by this cat each year in the area). I have seen some macaques and many crabs and shrimps which are also specific for this area. In the artificial pond there was a crocodile which wanted to eat me but I did not feel like letting him.
From Khulna I took a bus to Kustia, the home of Fakir Lalon Shah the religious man of no religion, philosopher and poet who did not want to be casted or classed. Here I meet many real elders and real gurus of knowledge, spirituality, traditional Bengali music, painting, hand-crafts... Here I have chance to observe and talk the spirituality and means of life. Analising the core of our thoughts analising ourselves, the self-realisation.
Life is very complicated but very simple, balanced. I first need to understand myself before attempting to understand others. One of the top quotes: 'The God is us.' Few days at the hatchery furthered a big step the knowledge of my own self.
If you are looking for a spiritual journeys you should never miss this place.
Monday, 11 July 2011
Train is running late...
...nothing unusual in Bangladesh. Buying tickets can also be a peculiar matter, if you are not prepared for it. I went to buy myself a ticket in a day advance but could only get a standing version, which is not a best deal for 5-6 hour journey during the night. Of course my trip is not always so happy and positive, nor my mind can be set to bright modes all the time. Unlucky those who meet Rado floating within his dark cloud...
I made it back to Dhaka, spent few hours wandering around the camera-market, my lovely Praktica has decided to give up on me. I have tried to convince camera handy man to rescue her, but he said he couldn't. I do not blame him, parts for such ladies are not easy to get in this part of the world. And so I decided to find another one, well I only found another ONE, decent camera (Yashica FX-3 super 2000) but unclean 50/1.9 lens... Did not have many other choices, so negotiated its price down to 4000TK, which was my top.
Eating out I always try to omit meaty dishes, I have not eaten meet for over 2 weeks and I am still alive and healthy. Usually I dine rice with an omelet and lentil or vegetable stew, it is not so spicy for me. Eating outside does not give many options to choose my meal, but if it comes to sweet pastry available in every small tea kiosk, I think each of them has at least one very own and specific type. This and a 'white' cuppa I often use as a quick refresh.
First night of my second visit in Dhaka I have spent in Japanese hotel/dormitory which I first thought was fairly cheap, unfortunately it got a bit more expensive overnight stay(850TK(I have become a greedy tourist)).
All those street kids and crippled beggars make me want to give out all I have and run away... My anti-beggar syndrom remains stronger and I try not to give them money. Instead I share my food, buying bit extra for those who are hungry.
Never-easy life of Bangla people and yet they still manage to smile, this only embarrasses me when feeling too many hairs, shall this be a reminder for those never-happy? Countless troubles they faced in the past, many they stand against at the present and the future does not look pinkest either. Well they keep going, keep living through the mess and dirt left behind by other nations. Shall Bengali remain strong and never drop the weapon, fight through the rough lifetimes.
I will remain fascinated and will slap myself in every weak moment of mine.
Next day I left the hotel towards river-docks where I wanted to buy a ticket for the Rocket Steamer, which would take me south to Khulna. When entering a bus I met another friendly gentleman, speaking well English and after an hour bus ride in ever-busy traffic of Dhaka(no no, infrastructure of Dhaka is undoubtedly among the greatest I have had a chance to experience so far;), Mo(that would be his name) made me realise that what I needed before going downtown was a good cup of coffee at his place. From coffee we forwarded through tasty lunch and joint to pleasant debates and music explorations, also with other flatmate Key, the best Bangladeshi guitarist I know. What an honor. How lucky I must be to meet such a people all the time. Or perhaps it is because I try so hard: answer to question: 'Why Alone?'. When I finally finished this bigger-than-usual cup of coffee, I went to find the MRSTO (Mysterious Rocket Steamer's Ticket Office). That was a joke really, I could not stop laughing after being sent from one spot to another, after a while me and them both given up, guys checking the tickets at the entrance of the boat telling me to come 'tomorrow at 5pm to get my ticket'. Whatever!
Later I was to meet my new friend Mo and his wife Uru at the darkest of the rooms in Dhaka, my first time in the dark room, made me big smile on my face. I have been showed few tricks on picture making and post processing. This was on my to-do list for longer time now, since I bought my first own camera, my now dead Praktica.
My new friends also agreed to spare me paying the hotel for another night, so I 'only' needed to bring my luggage over to their but... Traveling through not too small city of Dhaka can be as exhausting as chasing a gazelle not always being cheetah. Climbing on the bus's roof-top, I can feel my time is coming soon and I am already checking it out - must be fun for sure. From 10am until 10 pm I think I spent 7 hours being stuck somewhere in the traffic or whipping ricksha-ala's blood sweating back...
Nice evening indeed I have spend in company of my new friends, fair draw in the match good vs strong, equalised in the last minute shaping my dreams for the rest of a night.
Next day's a strike(Hortel?) made the streets free of heavy traffic, only public transportation I could find, which was heavenly after a hellish previous day. Leaving me not so disappointed I only could buy 3rd class ticket with no bed, being offered an expensive staff cabin first when I had to show my insolvency, but finding a compromise with a cheap little bed where at least I could store my rucksack.
Whole night on the Steamer was interesting, I hope I took few nice pictures. It was sometimes just too difficult to escape all curious Bangladeshi eyes, questions...
Khulna is my current stop.
I made it back to Dhaka, spent few hours wandering around the camera-market, my lovely Praktica has decided to give up on me. I have tried to convince camera handy man to rescue her, but he said he couldn't. I do not blame him, parts for such ladies are not easy to get in this part of the world. And so I decided to find another one, well I only found another ONE, decent camera (Yashica FX-3 super 2000) but unclean 50/1.9 lens... Did not have many other choices, so negotiated its price down to 4000TK, which was my top.
Eating out I always try to omit meaty dishes, I have not eaten meet for over 2 weeks and I am still alive and healthy. Usually I dine rice with an omelet and lentil or vegetable stew, it is not so spicy for me. Eating outside does not give many options to choose my meal, but if it comes to sweet pastry available in every small tea kiosk, I think each of them has at least one very own and specific type. This and a 'white' cuppa I often use as a quick refresh.
First night of my second visit in Dhaka I have spent in Japanese hotel/dormitory which I first thought was fairly cheap, unfortunately it got a bit more expensive overnight stay(850TK(I have become a greedy tourist)).
All those street kids and crippled beggars make me want to give out all I have and run away... My anti-beggar syndrom remains stronger and I try not to give them money. Instead I share my food, buying bit extra for those who are hungry.
Never-easy life of Bangla people and yet they still manage to smile, this only embarrasses me when feeling too many hairs, shall this be a reminder for those never-happy? Countless troubles they faced in the past, many they stand against at the present and the future does not look pinkest either. Well they keep going, keep living through the mess and dirt left behind by other nations. Shall Bengali remain strong and never drop the weapon, fight through the rough lifetimes.
I will remain fascinated and will slap myself in every weak moment of mine.
Next day I left the hotel towards river-docks where I wanted to buy a ticket for the Rocket Steamer, which would take me south to Khulna. When entering a bus I met another friendly gentleman, speaking well English and after an hour bus ride in ever-busy traffic of Dhaka(no no, infrastructure of Dhaka is undoubtedly among the greatest I have had a chance to experience so far;), Mo(that would be his name) made me realise that what I needed before going downtown was a good cup of coffee at his place. From coffee we forwarded through tasty lunch and joint to pleasant debates and music explorations, also with other flatmate Key, the best Bangladeshi guitarist I know. What an honor. How lucky I must be to meet such a people all the time. Or perhaps it is because I try so hard: answer to question: 'Why Alone?'. When I finally finished this bigger-than-usual cup of coffee, I went to find the MRSTO (Mysterious Rocket Steamer's Ticket Office). That was a joke really, I could not stop laughing after being sent from one spot to another, after a while me and them both given up, guys checking the tickets at the entrance of the boat telling me to come 'tomorrow at 5pm to get my ticket'. Whatever!
Later I was to meet my new friend Mo and his wife Uru at the darkest of the rooms in Dhaka, my first time in the dark room, made me big smile on my face. I have been showed few tricks on picture making and post processing. This was on my to-do list for longer time now, since I bought my first own camera, my now dead Praktica.
My new friends also agreed to spare me paying the hotel for another night, so I 'only' needed to bring my luggage over to their but... Traveling through not too small city of Dhaka can be as exhausting as chasing a gazelle not always being cheetah. Climbing on the bus's roof-top, I can feel my time is coming soon and I am already checking it out - must be fun for sure. From 10am until 10 pm I think I spent 7 hours being stuck somewhere in the traffic or whipping ricksha-ala's blood sweating back...
Nice evening indeed I have spend in company of my new friends, fair draw in the match good vs strong, equalised in the last minute shaping my dreams for the rest of a night.
Next day's a strike(Hortel?) made the streets free of heavy traffic, only public transportation I could find, which was heavenly after a hellish previous day. Leaving me not so disappointed I only could buy 3rd class ticket with no bed, being offered an expensive staff cabin first when I had to show my insolvency, but finding a compromise with a cheap little bed where at least I could store my rucksack.
Whole night on the Steamer was interesting, I hope I took few nice pictures. It was sometimes just too difficult to escape all curious Bangladeshi eyes, questions...
Khulna is my current stop.
Wednesday, 6 July 2011
Sreemangal
In Bangladesh the waste bin - evil invention - has not been recognised yet, they try to reuse as much as they manage, send back to the cycle. Perhaps some of them do not even realise how impossible this seem to be in the 'modern' west.
Also my stomach has already improved and getting fully adapted to the local goodies. I still do not dare to drink tapped water but I am sure that I would not have a problem with it soon, just am giving it a time.
Food here is very tasty and even cheaper than that. Yesterday me and my new friend went to eat in kind of local fast-food, if I can call it like that only because people here usually eat a bit faster than elsewhere and it is cheaper. So for two people, two big portions of rice each, two bowls of vegetable stew each, a chilli omelet each and some other extras + water I paid 110 Taka, which is about 1 EUR/GBP. And we ended up very full. I went to restaurant too, we almost could not walk away because of full bellies - bill for both of us including 50 Dhaka tip - 400 Taka.
Everything here is very cheap, once I stayed in a hotel, little room, my own bathroom plus standards like TV and mosquito net, huge cockroach always priceless, and sometimes it is hard imagine room without a big fan above yourself - 200 Taka. Now I am staying with a family for 300 Dhaka/night, where I feel much more home than in the hotel. CouchSurfing is possible but very limited, as there is not many people registered and hard to find a host.
Today me and my new Bangla friend have rented a bicycles and rode around the local tea gardens, jungles, pineapple plantages, always being warmly greeted by local people, who many times do not close their mouths of all that amazement when they see me. Wow and all these fresh tropical fruits - most I have tried before, but it is nothing like this, fully ripen mangos, pineapples, bananas, coconuts, lime, I wish I could bring you a little bit of that great taste, or I rather say, you have to come and try... So yes, we rode our cycles in this area called Lawachara National Park, with many beautiful sights and villagers. We have also visited local school where I attempted to give a lesson from arithmetics, I do not think I could be a good teacher, rather a good clown to amuse kids?)
Swimming in the lake full of water-lilies... Drinking a five-color tea was another step in exploring the ways of this favorite activity of mine, milky tea here is very popular, while instead of fresh milk they put thickened and sweetened milk concentrate(I forgot an English abbreviation), very sweet but also tasty cha, as they call it here. Making a lemonade in the middle of lemon garden, have you got any sugar and a pinch of salt? You should definitely go for it.
Returning almost complete bicycles made us lucky enough because my friend gives a private lessons to the owner's kids and so he closed both of his eyes, though I have to say we have not done anything apart from gentle and smooth ride-around;))
Also my stomach has already improved and getting fully adapted to the local goodies. I still do not dare to drink tapped water but I am sure that I would not have a problem with it soon, just am giving it a time.
Food here is very tasty and even cheaper than that. Yesterday me and my new friend went to eat in kind of local fast-food, if I can call it like that only because people here usually eat a bit faster than elsewhere and it is cheaper. So for two people, two big portions of rice each, two bowls of vegetable stew each, a chilli omelet each and some other extras + water I paid 110 Taka, which is about 1 EUR/GBP. And we ended up very full. I went to restaurant too, we almost could not walk away because of full bellies - bill for both of us including 50 Dhaka tip - 400 Taka.
Everything here is very cheap, once I stayed in a hotel, little room, my own bathroom plus standards like TV and mosquito net, huge cockroach always priceless, and sometimes it is hard imagine room without a big fan above yourself - 200 Taka. Now I am staying with a family for 300 Dhaka/night, where I feel much more home than in the hotel. CouchSurfing is possible but very limited, as there is not many people registered and hard to find a host.
Today me and my new Bangla friend have rented a bicycles and rode around the local tea gardens, jungles, pineapple plantages, always being warmly greeted by local people, who many times do not close their mouths of all that amazement when they see me. Wow and all these fresh tropical fruits - most I have tried before, but it is nothing like this, fully ripen mangos, pineapples, bananas, coconuts, lime, I wish I could bring you a little bit of that great taste, or I rather say, you have to come and try... So yes, we rode our cycles in this area called Lawachara National Park, with many beautiful sights and villagers. We have also visited local school where I attempted to give a lesson from arithmetics, I do not think I could be a good teacher, rather a good clown to amuse kids?)
Swimming in the lake full of water-lilies... Drinking a five-color tea was another step in exploring the ways of this favorite activity of mine, milky tea here is very popular, while instead of fresh milk they put thickened and sweetened milk concentrate(I forgot an English abbreviation), very sweet but also tasty cha, as they call it here. Making a lemonade in the middle of lemon garden, have you got any sugar and a pinch of salt? You should definitely go for it.
Returning almost complete bicycles made us lucky enough because my friend gives a private lessons to the owner's kids and so he closed both of his eyes, though I have to say we have not done anything apart from gentle and smooth ride-around;))
Tuesday, 5 July 2011
Bangla instead of Pakistan
And so I arrived to capital of Bangladesh, Dhaka. After around 20 hours spent on planes and at the airports - starting in Tehran International to Sharjah - 9 hours wait and continuing to Dhaka, which I reached at 8 am, having to pass the officials - applying for a short tourist or long transit visa (valid for 15 days), costing me only 11USD. BTW Slovakia is not in the list of countries according to which they assign the fee.. Fortunately it did not take more than an hour and so I was free to explore another country on my journeys. First I took a taxi to my new friend Jonatan's place, who warmly welcomed me with fried egg, cup of coffee and a joint - I could have not imagined it better. We managed to talk about few interesting as well as important topics before I realised my brain was misfunctionning more often than usual and that I should get a rest a bit.
I got up in the late afternoon meeting two other strangers, Mato and Carin from Apennine, who have taken me out for closer observations of Bangla life and markets. We took a rickshaw to the bajar(market) where we bought the ingredients for a dinner very traditional in Apennine, also a reason why these people come so strong, Pasta. Rickshaws here are very colorful(will try upload some pictures soon) and Riksha-ala are many times very skinny but strong men. Dhaka is sometimes called the Rickshaw capital but as I see it is not an easy job at all. They have to face all the rest of the traffic and are targeted as the weakest/slowliest compared to motor vehicles. It is also one of the lowest paid jobs, a ride to market for 3 of us, which is maybe 2 kilometers, cost only 30 Taka - 10 Taka each. On our way back home I had a chance to become the riksha-ala myself - I think it would make a good start for me in Bangladesh, if I wanted to live here. I enjoyed driving this vehicle a lot and I am glad that the actual riksha-ala could rest a bit. It is a hard-work and even struggle sometimes...
Discovering Dhaka with my new friends was very enriching having a great opportunity gaining first few information about the local culture and habits, nevertheless the local mosquitos which are sucking me a lot. Widely used gestures are very unique and I enjoy them a lot - for example gesture for thank you is a (usually right)hand palm next to face, head tilt away from raised hand - back and sideways, maybe closing eyes for a second to give it even greater meanings. :)
Traffic here is creazier than in Iran, wohoooo! CNG (it is a tricycle with an engine power by gas(LPG=CNG, that's why nickname CNG))
drivers are complete nuts, they drive missing other vehicles by milimeters, if they manage to miss. Cars here have installed big bumpers to protect the body.
My digestive system is getting used to local foods, I hope it would not take more than few days. There much more to write, but not so much time I am willing to dedicate to it today...
I got up in the late afternoon meeting two other strangers, Mato and Carin from Apennine, who have taken me out for closer observations of Bangla life and markets. We took a rickshaw to the bajar(market) where we bought the ingredients for a dinner very traditional in Apennine, also a reason why these people come so strong, Pasta. Rickshaws here are very colorful(will try upload some pictures soon) and Riksha-ala are many times very skinny but strong men. Dhaka is sometimes called the Rickshaw capital but as I see it is not an easy job at all. They have to face all the rest of the traffic and are targeted as the weakest/slowliest compared to motor vehicles. It is also one of the lowest paid jobs, a ride to market for 3 of us, which is maybe 2 kilometers, cost only 30 Taka - 10 Taka each. On our way back home I had a chance to become the riksha-ala myself - I think it would make a good start for me in Bangladesh, if I wanted to live here. I enjoyed driving this vehicle a lot and I am glad that the actual riksha-ala could rest a bit. It is a hard-work and even struggle sometimes...
Discovering Dhaka with my new friends was very enriching having a great opportunity gaining first few information about the local culture and habits, nevertheless the local mosquitos which are sucking me a lot. Widely used gestures are very unique and I enjoy them a lot - for example gesture for thank you is a (usually right)hand palm next to face, head tilt away from raised hand - back and sideways, maybe closing eyes for a second to give it even greater meanings. :)
Traffic here is creazier than in Iran, wohoooo! CNG (it is a tricycle with an engine power by gas(LPG=CNG, that's why nickname CNG))
My digestive system is getting used to local foods, I hope it would not take more than few days. There much more to write, but not so much time I am willing to dedicate to it today...
Sunday, 3 July 2011
Farewell Iran + few tips as asked - !to be updated!
Note: it seems impossible to get tapped water, they say it is not drinkable, and that the only options is to buy a bottle(bloody plastic). But there is always a way if there is a will, and when i was asking from the staff entrance to the kitchen for a glass, they gave me one with no charge.
So I have finally left Iran. I feel that Iranian experience is having a strong impact on me. Iranians they love tourists, I think because they do not have many opportunities to travel abroad and also there is not so many of us there, nevertheless to improve their English. There was never a single moment when I would struggle to get a help from someone. Iranians tend to honor strangers a lot, being polite, hospitable and helpful is the way they usually do it although we must not forget they would do it their way. Nevermind some youngsters/teenagers going bit mental(if I look back on my teenage times I can not say a word;). In those 29 nights spent in the country I only used my tent once and only because I wanted to stay near the Kaspian beach. All the rest I was sheltered by CSers and few times just by random people who I met in the street or got a ride with while hitchhiking, many invitations I could not accept.
I think that Iran is the most developed country in among the countries of Middles East and if some things were 'managed' and run differently I believe it would be at the level of any average European country. Bur unfortunately the 'management'...
People here are generally happy looking people, but I was also told that many of them are depressed inside and now I can understand why. There is many restrictions made by 'managers of Iran' on what can and cannot one do. Few of them: forbidden gatherings of mixed groups(boys and girls), web filtering, forbidden to meet or host foreigners (contradiction - how can this work with such people if they are so hospitable and kind, and it is part of their habit, tradition), forbidden to criticise the 'managers' - freedom of speech does not exist in Iran, and as the government hides behind a religion the law is adjusted to it, which is discriminating other religions and non-religious people.
People's reaction to these laws is a great dislike of those who create them, turning backs to the religion which is associated to these law-makers. There is very few people who would be supporting the managers and most of these are on the payroll - employees or 'blind' followers who get paid monthly(not much, but still...) for attending the pro-management gatherings or so.
Some tips and tricks as asked for:
VISA
The way of getting them may be different for different nationals, different places of application and different time...
Turkey - at the border - 15 euro - 30days stay - multiple entry
Iran - when getting my Iranian Visa, I was told at Iranian embassy in London I needed a reference, i.e. invitation - ideally a letter from your friend in Iran. After meeting few CSers in Iran I believe there is a chance of finding someone local who would be willing to help. I have used an agency (iranianvisa.com) which took 40 euro and few weeks to process my application, which is only first step - then I needed to apply at the actual embassy(which would cost around 70/100euro, normal or express respectively for 30 day visa - single entry(you should be able to extend once you are in Iran, I heard it is possible up to 3 months)). I would not use this agency again.
On the other hand my friend from Slovakia only sent his application to Embsassy in Vienna, and after 2 weeks he was told all paperwork was ready for him to collect Visa without any invitation required.
Also I hear that it is fearly easy to get Iranian Visa in Turkey, Trabzon and that some people managed to get them within few days or even hours.
Pakistan - there is a rule to obtain this visa in a country of your residence. Then it took me 2 weeks to have them in my passport (the only negative was that i needed to leave my passport at the embassy during this waiting period). Price - 40 euro for 90 days in Pakistan - single entry.
Bangladesh - at the airport in Dhaka - they could not find Slovakia in their list of the countries - after me showing not having many dollars left in cash - made up fee 11 USD - 15 days transit visa.
MEDICINE & VACCINATION
I have been vaccinated against hepA and B, typhoid and cholera all the rest should be fine, subject to check with your GP. I visited mine and there is a nurse specialist in this sphere, was nice talking to her, got an advice.
I was prescribed doxycycline(malaria prevention) and I have it here with me, but I do not think that it is a to healthy to take it when staying in risk areas for longer time. I decided not to pre-treat as I would have to be taking it for months. I am going to buy some medicine which I could take when suspicious of being sick to give me more time seeking for medical assistance, where in this areas I was told it is not as big deal.
EQUIPMENT
My rucksack is approximately 18kg light, with tent - 1kg of weight, just an emergency, sleepingbag - warm, some clothes(I think i took too many warm clothing), headlamp, Swiss knife, compass, map, I do not have any water purifier nor filter, it was not needed till this point, sun protection(cream, glasses, scarf)...
I can dress up waterproof from top to the bottom, But in such a humidity - it is a rain season in Bangladesh/India - you will be wet/damp most of the time anyway. I do not a have a mosquito net, i will need to deal with this issue in very near future as my blood seem to be of a good taste to this little suckers.
So I have finally left Iran. I feel that Iranian experience is having a strong impact on me. Iranians they love tourists, I think because they do not have many opportunities to travel abroad and also there is not so many of us there, nevertheless to improve their English. There was never a single moment when I would struggle to get a help from someone. Iranians tend to honor strangers a lot, being polite, hospitable and helpful is the way they usually do it although we must not forget they would do it their way. Nevermind some youngsters/teenagers going bit mental(if I look back on my teenage times I can not say a word;). In those 29 nights spent in the country I only used my tent once and only because I wanted to stay near the Kaspian beach. All the rest I was sheltered by CSers and few times just by random people who I met in the street or got a ride with while hitchhiking, many invitations I could not accept.
I think that Iran is the most developed country in among the countries of Middles East and if some things were 'managed' and run differently I believe it would be at the level of any average European country. Bur unfortunately the 'management'...
People here are generally happy looking people, but I was also told that many of them are depressed inside and now I can understand why. There is many restrictions made by 'managers of Iran' on what can and cannot one do. Few of them: forbidden gatherings of mixed groups(boys and girls), web filtering, forbidden to meet or host foreigners (contradiction - how can this work with such people if they are so hospitable and kind, and it is part of their habit, tradition), forbidden to criticise the 'managers' - freedom of speech does not exist in Iran, and as the government hides behind a religion the law is adjusted to it, which is discriminating other religions and non-religious people.
People's reaction to these laws is a great dislike of those who create them, turning backs to the religion which is associated to these law-makers. There is very few people who would be supporting the managers and most of these are on the payroll - employees or 'blind' followers who get paid monthly(not much, but still...) for attending the pro-management gatherings or so.
Some tips and tricks as asked for:
VISA
The way of getting them may be different for different nationals, different places of application and different time...
Turkey - at the border - 15 euro - 30days stay - multiple entry
Iran - when getting my Iranian Visa, I was told at Iranian embassy in London I needed a reference, i.e. invitation - ideally a letter from your friend in Iran. After meeting few CSers in Iran I believe there is a chance of finding someone local who would be willing to help. I have used an agency (iranianvisa.com) which took 40 euro and few weeks to process my application, which is only first step - then I needed to apply at the actual embassy(which would cost around 70/100euro, normal or express respectively for 30 day visa - single entry(you should be able to extend once you are in Iran, I heard it is possible up to 3 months)). I would not use this agency again.
On the other hand my friend from Slovakia only sent his application to Embsassy in Vienna, and after 2 weeks he was told all paperwork was ready for him to collect Visa without any invitation required.
Also I hear that it is fearly easy to get Iranian Visa in Turkey, Trabzon and that some people managed to get them within few days or even hours.
Pakistan - there is a rule to obtain this visa in a country of your residence. Then it took me 2 weeks to have them in my passport (the only negative was that i needed to leave my passport at the embassy during this waiting period). Price - 40 euro for 90 days in Pakistan - single entry.
Bangladesh - at the airport in Dhaka - they could not find Slovakia in their list of the countries - after me showing not having many dollars left in cash - made up fee 11 USD - 15 days transit visa.
MEDICINE & VACCINATION
I have been vaccinated against hepA and B, typhoid and cholera all the rest should be fine, subject to check with your GP. I visited mine and there is a nurse specialist in this sphere, was nice talking to her, got an advice.
I was prescribed doxycycline(malaria prevention) and I have it here with me, but I do not think that it is a to healthy to take it when staying in risk areas for longer time. I decided not to pre-treat as I would have to be taking it for months. I am going to buy some medicine which I could take when suspicious of being sick to give me more time seeking for medical assistance, where in this areas I was told it is not as big deal.
EQUIPMENT
My rucksack is approximately 18kg light, with tent - 1kg of weight, just an emergency, sleepingbag - warm, some clothes(I think i took too many warm clothing), headlamp, Swiss knife, compass, map, I do not have any water purifier nor filter, it was not needed till this point, sun protection(cream, glasses, scarf)...
I can dress up waterproof from top to the bottom, But in such a humidity - it is a rain season in Bangladesh/India - you will be wet/damp most of the time anyway. I do not a have a mosquito net, i will need to deal with this issue in very near future as my blood seem to be of a good taste to this little suckers.
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