Tuesday, 19 November 2013
Monday, 7 November 2011
Sunday, 11 September 2011
Addiction may cause strong people
Now that I am here in Gorakhpur(50km away from Nepalese border) thinking of what shall I think of the past 2-month-India-experience, with certain I can conclude one: the time is 'never' enough. In a way it is very hectic but chilled country which is being ruined by fast western self-consuming trend. Some may say that India is dirty and its people unclean, but I call it honest dirt. It is not nice to have trash everywhere but at least one can see what consequences this type of life-approach bring right away, while in west it is all being buried and incinerated away from mass' sight, 'it wasn't me' whistling while kicking the s.h.i.t. under the carpet. No excuse for any of these. India and its people still feel more innocent then western, still more dignity, respect and honesty but then one usually gets a cold shower in form of obvious trust abuser. I would say one of key social problems nowadays and anywhere is such an abuse of relationship, trust and honesty, that we distance ourselves, build the walls of prejudice and close little gate to the world and life. I suppose it is us and our rotten momentary nature. I declare my-rotten-self a war!
Anyhow I also wanted to mention some good times I have recently gone through. I met a good old friend in Vashisht, small village near Manali. No, it was not a coincidence we knew it was going to happen, sooner or later. Lu and her recent friend took me for climbing session, I have to note my first outdoor sport(rope) climbing. I have also been trusted enough to do my first ever belaying. Just very relaxed and joyful seansa including chocolate and chocolate biscuits. Later in the night we all very hungry found a pleasant place to dine and unwound interesting philosophic topics with yet another to me very enjoyable human-incarnation from Slovenja. And that was he who mentioned he was leaving to mountains for very good boulders day after the next and this idea made me visit Saku again next day.
Just in front of the wooden temple I met Jay fully packed ready for trip to Delhi and towards Nepal. We went on having a special lassi - bhang lassi, which have made the rest of my day more intense. With Saku I have confirmed the time of departure next morning at five, which I was too lazy to make. Leaving my guesthouse at around 9am I bought few apples and garlic on my way to bus-stand. There I was able to get local bus going near enough. Late in the afternoon I got off and exchanged my 3 hours sleeping sacrifice for walking to the spot before dusk. I would say a good deal done! Reaching C@#$u(I feel like not disclosing the name of this place in order to keep it as good and not so popular; only to those who ask and prove themselves) I found three dhabas. I was coming and asking whether they knew my friend Saku and at the last one they had even heard of me. Laloo's Dhaba, what an honour. Few days of lazy chill in/out of this 'restaurtent' surrounded by high hills, organic green peas farm and great boulders. No more I needed. Later me, Saku and Enrike took our tents and food stocks and went even more wild. Living among the rocks, cooking our own stow-food, enjoying life-climbing...
My mind is still there with them.
Anyhow I also wanted to mention some good times I have recently gone through. I met a good old friend in Vashisht, small village near Manali. No, it was not a coincidence we knew it was going to happen, sooner or later. Lu and her recent friend took me for climbing session, I have to note my first outdoor sport(rope) climbing. I have also been trusted enough to do my first ever belaying. Just very relaxed and joyful seansa including chocolate and chocolate biscuits. Later in the night we all very hungry found a pleasant place to dine and unwound interesting philosophic topics with yet another to me very enjoyable human-incarnation from Slovenja. And that was he who mentioned he was leaving to mountains for very good boulders day after the next and this idea made me visit Saku again next day.
Just in front of the wooden temple I met Jay fully packed ready for trip to Delhi and towards Nepal. We went on having a special lassi - bhang lassi, which have made the rest of my day more intense. With Saku I have confirmed the time of departure next morning at five, which I was too lazy to make. Leaving my guesthouse at around 9am I bought few apples and garlic on my way to bus-stand. There I was able to get local bus going near enough. Late in the afternoon I got off and exchanged my 3 hours sleeping sacrifice for walking to the spot before dusk. I would say a good deal done! Reaching C@#$u(I feel like not disclosing the name of this place in order to keep it as good and not so popular; only to those who ask and prove themselves) I found three dhabas. I was coming and asking whether they knew my friend Saku and at the last one they had even heard of me. Laloo's Dhaba, what an honour. Few days of lazy chill in/out of this 'restaurtent' surrounded by high hills, organic green peas farm and great boulders. No more I needed. Later me, Saku and Enrike took our tents and food stocks and went even more wild. Living among the rocks, cooking our own stow-food, enjoying life-climbing...
My mind is still there with them.
Thursday, 8 September 2011
Friday, 2 September 2011
Steep, deep, won't retreat!
Driving a bus in Himalaya is an art of steering wheel. Passengers holding their breath when bus wobbling over deep chasm, loose edges of the road between Srinagar and Leh make a ride adrenaline experience. Bus was stopping half-way in Kirgil where dormitory near the bus stand became our overnight shelter, joining few other 'stuck' travelers in this little village discussing fair trade over a local cup of kahwa tea.
Leh is an ancient capital of Himalayan Kingdom, now such a beautiful place being destructed by development of this area, in last few decades when it was opened for tourism.
Overland accessibility only few months during a year makes number of visitors peak in mid summer. 3500 meters above sea level is good starting point for further adventure.
With couple of freshly made friends from Srinagar-Leh tour Jay and Lei we decided to find information about doable trek without professional guidance. United finger pointed the Digar on map searched.
Starting point was at Leh bus station, packed up with usual trekking gear and food for 2-3 days we left at around 17:30 reaching the far end of Saboo village 40 minutes later. There we started to walk following the river up the valley. Less than hour it took for sun to hide and under dusk we settled. To make a fire we collected dry grass and yak's feces which make very good fire fuel where there is no wood available.
Early next morning after munching local home-made apricot jam and bread we folded the tents and sleeping bags back into our rucksacks and started hiking further up the river. Constant not-too-steep ascend took several hours before we met first person going the opposite direction and so we were assured of correct way to the pass. Digar La was reached after non-easy 'free-walking' (when one can not find the path and takes whichever supposed the most enjoyable) over sharp rocks and final zig-zag 200-300 meters to total 5300. Headache and weakness wanted to overwhelm us but we did play hard. Great feeling when spotting the other side of a hill is sort of reward which need not many words, just inhaling fresh air and feeding eyes with rich views. After both eyes and stomachs fed we parted with Lei who had to head back to Leh to catch a flight back to Mumbai next day. So only Jay and me continued down hill towards the other-side camp which we managed to find in 2 hours.
One red and one dark green tent signified the site surrounded by Sherpas' horses and semi-wild yaks. First we tried to make a fire but supposedly such altitude and oxygen lack make it difficult. Being greeted by Sherpas I chopped onions and carrots which I then cooked on their stove adding in their salt and fresh spring water. Humble soup was later upgraded by Sherpa's tasty chilly-vegetable stew and crumbled toasting bread making it the best fit for a dinner at the time. While me preparing dinner Jay found a wooden box and other leftovers which we later used as fuel for warming fire. The night was very cold and we did not manage to sleep a lot. Waking up and little wash in a spring set us up for another hike, now towards the Digar village. Incredible wheat fields growing in local sandy soil allow these people to produce most of what they consume. Their remote position makes them almost completely self-sufficient, powered by little hydroelectric power plant and photovoltaic panels installed. Asking locals where we could seek for a place to obtain food, one of local families invited us to their home and provided the hospitality which is nothing unusual here. Very traditional Mountain Dew(r) and Tetley's lemon tea unfortunately proved presence of globalisation even in so difficultly accessed area, but family members and tasty local dish made all those unexpected materials look innocent. Saying our thanks and farewell journey continued through long and exhausting deserted plateaus. Walking was tiring but scenery rewarding and pushing us step forward. From the Digar village it was approximately 30 KM which we walked to more civillised place called Khalsar. Setting our new single day walking record to over 40 KM we had filling dinner at local tea/food house. Later we were accommodated at next door guesthouse which as we later found out was facilitated with no toilet nor bathroom and after short discussion with landlord I negotiated our stay for no more than 50 Rupees per person/night. Omelet breakfasts and wash in a river was good start for hitchhiking attempt towards Nubra Valley. Second car which was driven by a happy monk called Lotus picked us up and an entertainment took a place while reaching monastry in Somur. There we enjoyed a prayer and tea+bread hospitality.
Now three days passed since we left Leh and we decided to head back to town. Getting on those few passing vehicles did not turn up to be easiest. First part was traveled thanks to army truck and its agreeable crew. Finding ourselves back in Khalsar we were trying luck for couple of hours finalising our wait by defeat and unfull contacted car/shared taxi. Fast and furious were driver's throttle/break pedal pushing - steering wheel handling but assured we were by Insha'Allah. Well we survived even though not making it in time on after-fasting dinner.
Back in Leh. Now in Manali, local charas is a quality and many good climbing spots make me think of staying longer...
Leh is an ancient capital of Himalayan Kingdom, now such a beautiful place being destructed by development of this area, in last few decades when it was opened for tourism.
Overland accessibility only few months during a year makes number of visitors peak in mid summer. 3500 meters above sea level is good starting point for further adventure.
With couple of freshly made friends from Srinagar-Leh tour Jay and Lei we decided to find information about doable trek without professional guidance. United finger pointed the Digar on map searched.
Starting point was at Leh bus station, packed up with usual trekking gear and food for 2-3 days we left at around 17:30 reaching the far end of Saboo village 40 minutes later. There we started to walk following the river up the valley. Less than hour it took for sun to hide and under dusk we settled. To make a fire we collected dry grass and yak's feces which make very good fire fuel where there is no wood available.
Early next morning after munching local home-made apricot jam and bread we folded the tents and sleeping bags back into our rucksacks and started hiking further up the river. Constant not-too-steep ascend took several hours before we met first person going the opposite direction and so we were assured of correct way to the pass. Digar La was reached after non-easy 'free-walking' (when one can not find the path and takes whichever supposed the most enjoyable) over sharp rocks and final zig-zag 200-300 meters to total 5300. Headache and weakness wanted to overwhelm us but we did play hard. Great feeling when spotting the other side of a hill is sort of reward which need not many words, just inhaling fresh air and feeding eyes with rich views. After both eyes and stomachs fed we parted with Lei who had to head back to Leh to catch a flight back to Mumbai next day. So only Jay and me continued down hill towards the other-side camp which we managed to find in 2 hours.
Now three days passed since we left Leh and we decided to head back to town. Getting on those few passing vehicles did not turn up to be easiest. First part was traveled thanks to army truck and its agreeable crew. Finding ourselves back in Khalsar we were trying luck for couple of hours finalising our wait by defeat and unfull contacted car/shared taxi. Fast and furious were driver's throttle/break pedal pushing - steering wheel handling but assured we were by Insha'Allah. Well we survived even though not making it in time on after-fasting dinner.
Back in Leh. Now in Manali, local charas is a quality and many good climbing spots make me think of staying longer...
Sunday, 21 August 2011
Boundaries?
Trying to get up early when there is no solid schedule set may be unfair challenge with my own laziness. Packing rucksack with all I consider necessary, tent, sleeping bag, warm and weatherproof overalls, camera, knife, compass... Or should I rather say unpacking all that I would not need. Leaving warm family house for market, buying water, bread, butter, raisins, nuts, apples, chocolate, whatever I felt would be effective to carry/eat. Little pot and instant soup, in case I could make a fire. Feeling I filled my rucksack enough I found myself waiting for a shared taxi to get full and ready for departure. Finishing one adventure just so the other one can begin.
Under an hour it took to leave the boarding spot. Roads here are usually very narrow and wrecked and so even short distance may take ages. Fortunately these so called 'jeeps' are certainly among the fastest vehicles. From Srinagar an hour and half ride to Anatnak, where I remembered to buy another maybe-useful gear, not to leave my luggage too light. Another 30 minutes trying to find people who are willing to travel Pahalgam. At around 3 pm I reached this destination, got a tasty lunch in form of a dal and chapatti, creamed up with curd. Stronged up I jumped on the rooftop of the bus going to Aru. Next piece of puzzle to my adventure, rooftop bus ride finally finds it place including a bonus - magnificent mountain views. There I was enjoying the ride together with boys for whom school just finished. Jumping off I did not hesitate to start the trek being well-directed by locals. Foresty and steep beginning of the route was a kind invitation and drawn a very wide smile up on my face. Not many people I met in first 2 hours and those few I always asked to assure myself that I am going correct way to Leddrevath. There I reached in little longer than 2 hours. I met a tourist guide who would be telling me that I am doing impossible but of course very possible with him... Naaaah, I can not believe such talks anymore and lucky enough I met people working on tourist cottage (governmental property) restoration. They were kind enough to invite me to have a cup of Kashmiry chai, milky and salty one with tasty cake. As we talked I got very good information on the trek and so I was able to update those I already carried. In the cottage, these people were staying at, was little spare space for random stranger like me and so they could share it with me. Smoking hubble-bubble and talking about local habits, finalising this day with a tasty dinner Coq ala Kashmir. Night was not easy to sleep through as there were few little creatures or so called mice trying to sneak into my rucksack and get the nuts/whatever they like to feed on. And as I lit my torch cute little one would give me an innocent gaze, asking why do I have to make it so difficult, there I should be giving a resolution and handing a hand full of nuts over to restless rodent family. No I said and laid back giving my bag a big hug. They would never resist and at least bit a bit of foam, so I remembered.
Early in the morning, finishing a breakfast tea and buttered bread killed with a chunk of garlic, I ascended towards Tarssar lake(it is based in altitude of almost 4000 meters). Beautiful sceneries fed my eyes since I left Pahalgam the day before. What a munch. I am looking forward films being processed and printed.
It took around five and a half hours(including short breaks to eat raisins or chocolate; this part of journey was mostly going up) to reach very near lake, where I would feel too tired and so took almost an hour of rest on sun-heated stones. Then I climbed the near steep hill so I could see around, finding that I was rested just very close to lake itself. So I snapped few shots during a short walk around, talked to marmots which would squeak to alarm others of my presence. On my way back I stopped at the large tent which was surrounded by horses and sheep, occupied by shepherds who live in this area and look after their herds. Offering them my crumbled bread&butter combination spiced up by cucumber, they would not really fancy sharing, instead I was served with yet another cup of tasty local tea. Cutting vegetable with my swiss-made knife I asked for an attention of the elder shepherd who was willing to have a closer look. Soon he gave me his own folding knife telling me business was done exchanging not leaving me too happy about it. And as little of language we shared I was trying to convince him about my feeling and get my knife back but not in my back. Just as I felt giving this wild man a moral lesson, he would under pressure of rest of his shepherd crew return this item back to me. but I was now ready to agree with his business intention and we did exchange knives in the end again and forwarded through our short friendship. (I know that my self-righteousness and stubbornness one day will come at the great cost.) Both happy we shook hands and gaining more instructions from him I started to return back to the valley beneath. It did not take me more than hour, but the clouds in front were not giving a friendliest perspective nor my watch telling it was four in the afternoon(it gets dark at around 7pm). The other side of the river which I was crossing bare-footed that day once already, a shepherd woman in bright colored dress gestured an invitation. And so I started to search a crossing without taking my boots of. Few minutes later I was at the humblest accommodation - plastic foil covered tent with not high stony wall around. Negotiation of my overnight shelter was accepted very quickly and soon I found myself sitting within sipping a tea. There was number of people coming in and out all the time and as I in the end figured out all these people would be staying inside this tent. Communication was established with those who spoke a bit of English. Again as my trip goes I would be given a tasty and very spicy dinner, very local mutton with rice. The most successful payback was a tobacco and my rolling skill so I could make a cigarette for every single member of the family, except the wife who is not to harm her health(when it was only me and her in the tent, when all other men where with herd she sneaked a little tobacco into the hubble-bubble and smoked quickly a bit before anyone noticed). After counting sheep and dinner we were all ready to rest. Eight people crowded inside this humble little place where interrupted by whistle of the one guarding the herd. There was an attack of a wild animal (possibly leopard/bear) and caused these shepherds to run around making strange alarming noise and whistle which I assume was to scare invader. They even used home-made pyrotechnics. Unfortunately one of the sheep did not survive the attack.
In the morning I quickly got up, said 'shukria' to hospitable family, washed myself in the river and ate some for breakfast before leaving valley. Area I was walking through was extremely peaceful, quiet and I would not meet anybody for hours. At this point my only source of orientation was compass and intuition. Up and downs, long flat valleys, downs and ups, stones or golf-course grass, sunshine or drizzle. Hours of pleasant walking. Later in the afternoon I was reaching some herds and their shepherds again, asking for the directions, some would know more than the others. At around 3 pm I was advised to cross over a hill which after 7 hours of walk would not seem the easiest obstacle. Rested my body having a lunch and with very good spirits initiated the final part of my hike. As they said it is behind that hill I thought it was not going to be too far and would reach the civilized world in order to take a bus back to Srinagar soon. I crossed the valley and climbed up the hill, taking no more then hour and half of time. At the top, I could after 2 days see a village again giving me a warmth of satisfaction. It was just that village was scaled in a great ratio. To shorten this story; it took me over three hours to reach the bottom of this steep hill and it was one of the greatest fights of myself and my embodiment. My knees were trembling and it felt like I could not even walk any more. Thinking I could not go further but pushed by responsibility and dissimpathy for incapability. When despair comes very close, makes me very happy when overcome.
As I reached the village and first houses, I met a man carrying an axe, I (seemingly weak and exhausted) asked him where I could find a main road or bus stop. He without hesitation began to lead a way asking where I was going, disappointing me with information that there was no more bus to where I wanted to go. Lucky I was once again because this gentleman invited me to his home first just for a cup of tea but then suggested me to stay overnight. I must have looked very desperate as the family looked after me like a little baby... Full care, stop.
Next morning I could not feel good leaving without a little bakshish(bribe) which of course did not want to be accepted but I was not giving a choice. Now I was ready and fresh to take a bus back to Srinagar - 60 kilometers = 3 hours in the local bus, what a delight.
Under an hour it took to leave the boarding spot. Roads here are usually very narrow and wrecked and so even short distance may take ages. Fortunately these so called 'jeeps' are certainly among the fastest vehicles. From Srinagar an hour and half ride to Anatnak, where I remembered to buy another maybe-useful gear, not to leave my luggage too light. Another 30 minutes trying to find people who are willing to travel Pahalgam. At around 3 pm I reached this destination, got a tasty lunch in form of a dal and chapatti, creamed up with curd. Stronged up I jumped on the rooftop of the bus going to Aru. Next piece of puzzle to my adventure, rooftop bus ride finally finds it place including a bonus - magnificent mountain views. There I was enjoying the ride together with boys for whom school just finished. Jumping off I did not hesitate to start the trek being well-directed by locals. Foresty and steep beginning of the route was a kind invitation and drawn a very wide smile up on my face. Not many people I met in first 2 hours and those few I always asked to assure myself that I am going correct way to Leddrevath. There I reached in little longer than 2 hours. I met a tourist guide who would be telling me that I am doing impossible but of course very possible with him... Naaaah, I can not believe such talks anymore and lucky enough I met people working on tourist cottage (governmental property) restoration. They were kind enough to invite me to have a cup of Kashmiry chai, milky and salty one with tasty cake. As we talked I got very good information on the trek and so I was able to update those I already carried. In the cottage, these people were staying at, was little spare space for random stranger like me and so they could share it with me. Smoking hubble-bubble and talking about local habits, finalising this day with a tasty dinner Coq ala Kashmir. Night was not easy to sleep through as there were few little creatures or so called mice trying to sneak into my rucksack and get the nuts/whatever they like to feed on. And as I lit my torch cute little one would give me an innocent gaze, asking why do I have to make it so difficult, there I should be giving a resolution and handing a hand full of nuts over to restless rodent family. No I said and laid back giving my bag a big hug. They would never resist and at least bit a bit of foam, so I remembered.
Early in the morning, finishing a breakfast tea and buttered bread killed with a chunk of garlic, I ascended towards Tarssar lake(it is based in altitude of almost 4000 meters). Beautiful sceneries fed my eyes since I left Pahalgam the day before. What a munch. I am looking forward films being processed and printed.
It took around five and a half hours(including short breaks to eat raisins or chocolate; this part of journey was mostly going up) to reach very near lake, where I would feel too tired and so took almost an hour of rest on sun-heated stones. Then I climbed the near steep hill so I could see around, finding that I was rested just very close to lake itself. So I snapped few shots during a short walk around, talked to marmots which would squeak to alarm others of my presence. On my way back I stopped at the large tent which was surrounded by horses and sheep, occupied by shepherds who live in this area and look after their herds. Offering them my crumbled bread&butter combination spiced up by cucumber, they would not really fancy sharing, instead I was served with yet another cup of tasty local tea. Cutting vegetable with my swiss-made knife I asked for an attention of the elder shepherd who was willing to have a closer look. Soon he gave me his own folding knife telling me business was done exchanging not leaving me too happy about it. And as little of language we shared I was trying to convince him about my feeling and get my knife back but not in my back. Just as I felt giving this wild man a moral lesson, he would under pressure of rest of his shepherd crew return this item back to me. but I was now ready to agree with his business intention and we did exchange knives in the end again and forwarded through our short friendship. (I know that my self-righteousness and stubbornness one day will come at the great cost.) Both happy we shook hands and gaining more instructions from him I started to return back to the valley beneath. It did not take me more than hour, but the clouds in front were not giving a friendliest perspective nor my watch telling it was four in the afternoon(it gets dark at around 7pm). The other side of the river which I was crossing bare-footed that day once already, a shepherd woman in bright colored dress gestured an invitation. And so I started to search a crossing without taking my boots of. Few minutes later I was at the humblest accommodation - plastic foil covered tent with not high stony wall around. Negotiation of my overnight shelter was accepted very quickly and soon I found myself sitting within sipping a tea. There was number of people coming in and out all the time and as I in the end figured out all these people would be staying inside this tent. Communication was established with those who spoke a bit of English. Again as my trip goes I would be given a tasty and very spicy dinner, very local mutton with rice. The most successful payback was a tobacco and my rolling skill so I could make a cigarette for every single member of the family, except the wife who is not to harm her health(when it was only me and her in the tent, when all other men where with herd she sneaked a little tobacco into the hubble-bubble and smoked quickly a bit before anyone noticed). After counting sheep and dinner we were all ready to rest. Eight people crowded inside this humble little place where interrupted by whistle of the one guarding the herd. There was an attack of a wild animal (possibly leopard/bear) and caused these shepherds to run around making strange alarming noise and whistle which I assume was to scare invader. They even used home-made pyrotechnics. Unfortunately one of the sheep did not survive the attack.
In the morning I quickly got up, said 'shukria' to hospitable family, washed myself in the river and ate some for breakfast before leaving valley. Area I was walking through was extremely peaceful, quiet and I would not meet anybody for hours. At this point my only source of orientation was compass and intuition. Up and downs, long flat valleys, downs and ups, stones or golf-course grass, sunshine or drizzle. Hours of pleasant walking. Later in the afternoon I was reaching some herds and their shepherds again, asking for the directions, some would know more than the others. At around 3 pm I was advised to cross over a hill which after 7 hours of walk would not seem the easiest obstacle. Rested my body having a lunch and with very good spirits initiated the final part of my hike. As they said it is behind that hill I thought it was not going to be too far and would reach the civilized world in order to take a bus back to Srinagar soon. I crossed the valley and climbed up the hill, taking no more then hour and half of time. At the top, I could after 2 days see a village again giving me a warmth of satisfaction. It was just that village was scaled in a great ratio. To shorten this story; it took me over three hours to reach the bottom of this steep hill and it was one of the greatest fights of myself and my embodiment. My knees were trembling and it felt like I could not even walk any more. Thinking I could not go further but pushed by responsibility and dissimpathy for incapability. When despair comes very close, makes me very happy when overcome.
As I reached the village and first houses, I met a man carrying an axe, I (seemingly weak and exhausted) asked him where I could find a main road or bus stop. He without hesitation began to lead a way asking where I was going, disappointing me with information that there was no more bus to where I wanted to go. Lucky I was once again because this gentleman invited me to his home first just for a cup of tea but then suggested me to stay overnight. I must have looked very desperate as the family looked after me like a little baby... Full care, stop.
Next morning I could not feel good leaving without a little bakshish(bribe) which of course did not want to be accepted but I was not giving a choice. Now I was ready and fresh to take a bus back to Srinagar - 60 kilometers = 3 hours in the local bus, what a delight.
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