else, elsewhere, elsewise...

Esfahan used to be a capital of Persia around four hundred years ago, it has got beautiful bridges across the ghost river, or river which has got no water. It is dry this season because of lesser rainfall as well as because of its use in the other regions where it is more important, mainly for agriculture. Some say that the most beautiful mosque in the world is here, well I have not seen all of them but this one really is an outstanding piece... Also very nice bazaar around the main square Naghsh-e Jahan which is crowdy but pretty, blabla...
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Now I am going to introduce the Iranian cuisine. I would start with desserts, where my favorite is havij bastani - a carrot juice with vanilla and saffron ice cream, or alternative with melon juice - this is quick energy gainer and great refreshment during hot summer-days. Another very interesting frozen goodie is faludeh - frozen starch noodles with rosewater. These are available widely in little shops or kiosks especially in this warmest season.
Fruits and vegetables are also available in every bigger street or at the local bazaar(market). Mostly seasonal fruits are on the table, these days it is mainly a variety of melons, plums (also green) and cherries, but you can also find mango - very tasty or apples which are a bit more expensive.
Sometimes I am just buying one cucumber or other but so far I have never had to pay for it like this because of too small amount and generosity towards tourists(i know it is a bit cheeky but what can I do?)... There are no supermarkets here like in western countries, but there is plenty of small shops were you can get the basic foods. Then you have butchers sometimes combined with a kebab place, so you eat being surrounded by dead animals. At least you can see what you are munching on. Bakeries you also can find almost everywhere and so I am eating fresh bread all the time. Thee is few kinds of bread here, some thin called lavash, or thicker breads barbari or sangak. The thicker one costs about 30 cents, I always buy one when hungry passing a bakery, sometimes it is so hot that I have to throw it from hand to hand.
Main meals - of course kebab you can get everywhere - but I think Turkish is better. From the north-west towards south-east it may vary a bit. As for example the Tabriz area is more of a Turkish or Azerbaijani influence. I really enjoyed the yogurt soup - yogurtly aash - with lots of herbs (mainly dill and mint) which I ate with lavash bread in which there was mix of egg and potato, again with herbs and black pepper. Many dishes are served with rice as that is one of the dominants in local agriculture. One of them is ghotmeh sabzi, which is a 'green' stew, consisting of fried mixed herbs such as mint, parsley, maybe coriander, leek or spinach but this may vary from region to region, this is mixed with kidney beans and lamb or veal meet. This is sometimes told to be an Iranian national dish. Most of the foods are served with yogurt, yogurt is everywhere. Sometimes they mix all kinds of herbs with it plus a little bit of garlic = a finger-licker. Also I have to mention the sort of spaghetti/noodles with vegetables or even meat, and the crispy noodle part on top, very nice but the I do not remember nor I can find it. Very interesting ingredient for me here is a walnut but there is many good things about Iranian kitchen. I am also very happy that to some people I have met I could show a bit of the slovak-rado-style cooking, so they could discover a bit of different or rather freestyle cooking.
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In Esfahan we have also visited a carpet shop which you could see in the picture section. I do not know about the other shops because this the only one I have spent more time within but it was very welcoming and the salesman was very happy to talk about anything I have asked of course while drinking a tea what is a must. So they sell these famous Persian flying carpets on which we were told we could get from here to Bratislava in approximately 12 hours. Just need to sit on it with closed eyes and enjoy the ride. Who knows what you need to smoke before going, but I am sure you could fly high. Carpets themselves are indeed very nice, they had some from pure silk (prices up to 3000USD for less than 2sqaure meters of rug), some from sheep wool or mixed(if I got it right/left). To make such a carpet take lots of time, sometimes even several months or years, I am not surprised by the price of it. I think they are all made by hand, usually this hand belongs to nomadic woman, who then sells them to these shopkeepers. Very interesting experience, just visiting a shop we made new friend who even though we did not buy anything was welcoming us next day when passing by and made us another cuppa.
During the visit of Esfahan me and Misko went to nearby small city where we were off to meet local couple and their 8 year old son. It always is very warm and friendly and these people honor you like you were a king. We could exchange the opinions on cultures and living-patterns. Next day we visited the master of calligraphy, who was also a teacher of our host. He wrote a nice Hafez's poem for both of us. Then we were taken to the old(400years) castle or fortress and we had very unexpected tour after asking a worker who we saw outside making a mud ready for reconstructing. The civil engineer (every second Iranian I meet is an engineer:) responsible for the site has offered a tour around and so we had a perfect guide + our host who made a translator. So we saw a place which you would not find on lonelyplanet.com. In the evening I cooked my already famous chicken/vegetable soup, while listening to our friend playing santoor. I have tried to play it too and I have enjoyed it a lot. It sounds heavenly and it is very relaxing.
First time in Esfahan I have taken a part in partying. Just few people behind the closed door, few drops of vinecko and palenocka mixed together made us all very marry and willing to dance, we could amuse each other with different techniques, Iran - Slovak dance-floor was shaking at its base.
From Esfahan to Shiraz, from Shiraz to Persepolis, ancient gardens and ancient city of kings. Very old and very hot it is these days, it is very exhausting to be out in a day time, at least I can write a bit more to this blog, share a little with you.
And today I have prepared a lunch, creamy soup with green beans, potatoes, dill and yogurt ala myself plus 'french potato' as second course. :P

I love Iran and its people

Area of north Iran - south coast of Caspian Sea - is one endless town around the main road, between Sea and jungle. People here are quiet crazy or at least those I have met, that suits me well. And so I stayed for 3 nights. Many thanks to my other Iranian mother Ann for whom I have become a son who was lucky trying to get an answer to several no easy questions. It is always great feeling to meet such real people who are not afraid to talk about anything...
From Tonekabon I started to move quiet late(after very healthy breakfast - Iranian usual - bread with cheese and vegetables, of course cup of black tea must not be missed either, leaving at around 11am) like it already was a habit, hmm, yes I am not in a rush, it is still 'a holiday'. Everything seem to be so easy and ready for me that I have to make it at least little bit more difficult. Easy = boring.
Caught few cars to Chalus, few cars including a nice taxi driver who gave a free ride. From this town I was picked up by 3 boys returning to Tehran, glad to help them getting away with no penalty (when overtaking where it was forbidden to) - policeman wanted to show to me=tourist how considerate they were or maybe he just needed little help pushing their vehicle forwards (as it would not start otherwise) which he would not get if we were penalised.
Tehran is a mass and so far biggest city I have entered, can not wait to visit Delhi. And even though it took me only under 2 hours to leave city of course thanks to massive support by curious Iranians. It is very useful to look like foreigner here, believe me. And I seem to have a special talent to act even stranger they would have ever expected. You guess correctly if you think that I enjoy it a lot.
Although after some time I made my audience understand that I usually do not take bus or taxi, one who spoken English fluently convinced me to pay 1500 Tuman - little more than a 1 USD - (all I had in this currency anyway) for a bus to city called Qum. Here I arrived around 8pm and because of my disorientation it took me almost 2 hours to get back on the correct road. Again lucky enough after one hour of standing behind highway tolls, elder gentleman approached me and asked whether I needed assistance and because I did not mind the company of his family in the car I had a direct ride to Esfahan. So happy that I managed to travel almost 700km in 15 hours for little more than 1 dollar, food and entertainment included, I also had a place to stay over short night, provided by this family who felt honored when I accepted their invitation.
Esfahan is beautiful city with the most beautiful mosque in the world - so they say - but it is indeed (from those two I have seen so far;). Here I meet many friendly local people and also Misko, whom I made friend earlier in Tabriz. I presented my famous vegetable soup which has been success I believe, I had to cook it twice.
People of Esfahan and events along my and Misko's stay brought us at least one step closer to understanding how the life is for (young) people in Iran. Once experienced in real it cleared up our blurred ideas after all those stories we heard or read.
I am now very tired and can not see the keybosdf anymrrreeeee ndjskadnffffff........

Chubar, Rasht and now Tonekabon...

Chubar is a little town near Astara. People here, as it is quit small place, tend to be very friendly and respectful but I am not saying that elsewhere they are not. Here I was brought by guy called mr Y who I have found on CS, after making a phone call he came to pick me up to Astara with mr A accompanied with mr Ash. These other 2 people are Y's good friends and also English students. Yes, mr Y is a local private English teacher (but also student at university) and speaks this language very well. I was taken to mr A place where I was told to stay for first night. Although I did not plan to stay any longer it took me 4 days to leave this place. They made me feel very comfortable, ensuring I would not be bored for a second. Mr A is a history teacher, very calm, relaxed gentleman who looks after his family well. He lives with his wife and 3 sons. Taking lessons of English and hosting people from all around the world he tries to improve his language skills. Great personality, great family... Hospitality, big thing, breakfast ready as soon as I opened my eyes, lunch before I had chance get hungry after breakfast and so on... I think you do not get such service when staying in most expensive hotels, though I have never stayed in one :)... And its honesty is extra! During my stay I was taken to all nice places around, visiting A's kiwi farm, rice fields, swimming in the largest lake in the world called دریای خزر, trying to teach this pleasurable activity to A's oldest son, who at his 12 years speaks very good English even better than his father. I think I am a poor teacher, I do not have much patience, but I can always try. We also have been running through the sandy beaches, where we do not need any shoes and can roar freely barefooted. Mr Y and mr Ash have taken me for hiking in surrounding mountains, which are not high but still very picturesque. It is the local jungle full rice fields, forests, bee hives and its keepers... And very humid. I can also feel I am getting closer to India because cows they hang around almost everywhere they can eat grass, beach, jungle, grassy alley between roads... Opposite Y's home wedding preparations took a place and so he did not miss the opportunity to show me the local traditions. First part of wedding here is like a party for groom, doors wide open for anyone to come, dance and wish him the best of luck. People here can become quiet wild and have strong passion for dancing. The guests give money to groom's family member, first tapping them on his forehead and then they dance with these money throwing them all around... Me as the only foreigner, was invited to the 'dance-carpets' by the elder of wedding(he used to be an English literature teacher, so his announcement was in English too) who by pure coincidence was a member of Y's family and he asked me to dance with him. Of course there was no chance to refuse this invitation as there was around 300 guests impatiently looking at me and waiting to experience some liquid dancing performance. I have tried my best and left after few songs with sweat on my face and massive ovations;))... Next day we saw the bride being brought to her husband home, where she shall live forever. Very nice moments waited for me in Chubar...
Next I moved to Rasht, hitchhiking, 'unfortunately' at some point unable to explain what I was doing I was paid for the bus which took me to the city. Here before meeting my next host I met few crazy old and divorced geezers, who spoke English and said lots of funny things, many of which I would not expect out their mouths. I was amused. Later in the day I reached mrs H's home where I was allowed to stay for next few days. First I shared her guest space with other 2 CSers from Switzerland. Next day all 4 of us went to tour near by places, Rudkhan (medieval) Castle, which is built of brick and stone. We had tasty lunch just next to the spring, beneath the castle. The price for everything we buy was always being beaten down by our host and negotiator mrs H. Then we shared taxi to Masouleh which is a beautiful village built in the steep hill. Its little sreets' pavement is a roof of another houses bellow. Very calm and atmospheric place where we sat in a cafe, drank cay, ate cookies and smoked shisha enjoying the mists falling down from the hilltops.
Mrs H is a very active, happy and polite human, who would challenge your memory with big amount of information. She loves traveling and is very open to new adventures. Now I can say that I have found my Iranian mother too. She looked after me like my own. At some point I dared to challenge her husband in chess but I was far from being a decent competitor. He is a master of this game and also table tennis. And he loves fishing. Their sons are around my age and are all very smart and open. And I think they all enjoyed my cabbage dish - 'halusky s kapustou'. In Rasht I also met few more people including mrs M and her Scottish friend Raul, who took to their favorite cafe place, full of artistic artifacts and relaxed tunes. Also other guy Yan who took me to the old market place...
Next I made my way to Tonekabon, where mrs H's friend Ann stays and so I have got shelter for next few days. On my way here I met this crazy truck driver, who fed me well with kebab and even invited me to his place which is further east near Caspian. He would also offer me money as I tried to explain to him that my budget is little and why I hitchhike.
Endless generosity and hospitality...

few informations...

Well I hope you all are at least as fine as I am. There is few things I want to mention:
-my english number is off, it does not seem to work here, I have tried to send message or call several times with no success. If you wish to contact me, please send an email (or now I am using an Iranian sim-card, number is in previous post)
-one more thanks to Radko G. who has given his old phone because my old one has just died
-after recent events in Pakistan I have been advised (by someone traveling in Pakistan at the moment) to avoid the country. It does not seem to be safe for not even for tourist but for local people either these days. It is unfortunate but I do see it as good decision. So I just searching for cheapest possible flight to India from Iran
- - - I have just booked my flight, instead of Pakistan I will visit Bangladesh, 30th I flying from Tehran to its capital city Dhaka... It is going to be interesting.
-I have created new album for Asia
-now I am staying in Rasht, will write more but now I am going to cook a lunch (halusky s kapustou;)

CAU!

Savalan - hitchhiking in Iran - Astara

There is so much happening these days that it is almost impossible to note everything down. Next I want to tell about the day when me, Miso and Amir decided to go hiking. Hiking I love a lot but this was something very new for me. We went to the 3rd highest mountain in Iran Savalan which is about 4800m high. So far the highest point I have reached is slightly over 2000 meters back in Slovakia.
So we left Tabriz in the noon taking shared taxies and other types of the cheapest transportation towards the village Shabel, just beneath the hill. It was not easy to get here for cheap money, taxi drivers tend to double the prices when they see tourists even though there is a local guy with us. We started to walk from the big parking in the village towards the camp (3500m high) which we were told was almost an hour by off road vehicle or 4 hours walking. It was already late, around half past six or even seven o’clock, I cannot remember exactly. After first few meters I decided to go off the road and try to go ‘alternative’ free way (it would not be me if I did not). Amir wanted to go with me but Miso did not feel like going a bit steeper. Here our ways separated and soon after it started to rain – snow. It was the first welcome said by Savalan. Fortunately this not so nice weather did not take too long to clear and we could happily hike further without a need of our waterproof equipment (here I must note that Amir is a brave guy, not taking too much care about these aspects of hiking). As we went up further, I could not resist going my own tempo and so I left Amir behind, from time to time whistling loud to make sure he is still behind. At some point, or 2½ hours later I could see the camp in distance and also Amir behind so I just went back to the road (it was also slowly getting dark). I reached the camp first, of course, few minutes after sunset. Miso arrived approximately 20 minutes after me, but surprisingly we were missing one more member, Amir. In the meantime the weather has changed again, into a storm with rain, snow and wind as a bonus. We tried to call Amir with no success, the reception in this area was very poor. After waiting over an hour we with hope that he would be in some other part of camp area, decided to hide in our sleeping bags and get a little rest before an early morning ascend. Maybe 30 minutes later, silence of the night was suddenly disturbed by voice calling my name, which I could recognise straight away. I ran outside and saw Amir covered with his sleeping bag walking towards the camp. He was all wet and freezing (it was I think around -2 degree Celsius). Brave Amir was hiking to the last minute away from the road and had no torch to find his way to camp after sunset and during the snow/rain although he was only few hundreds meters away.
We helped him out of the wet clothes, borrowed him some of our drier stuff and covered in whatever we assumed would keep the guy warm. It seemed to help and so we could rest. At 5am we got up, going to look for Amir’s rucksack as he left it somewhere under the rock, where he was hiding from the bad weather. In this height there was still fair amount of snow and my thirst told me to cross one of these snowy islands to drink fresh mountain water. What I could have predicted was that my feet might get under the snow into the little river beneath… Few seconds later and water was pouring into my boots. And here is where my attempt was over. Gladly Miso was all ready as the only well prepared hiker, and 4 hours later reached the holy lake at the top of this volcano. We are all happy and share this fortune with him or rather he shares it with us?)
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Hitchhiking in Iran is possible. First elder man has taken out of the Tabriz city, stopping and asking traffic policeman to send me safely for the bus. I managed to explain to this polite English-speaking police guy that I had no money to spend on transportation and wanted to take a ride with someone who went my direction for free. In few seconds he stopped the car going my way and two young guys agreed to take me. All fine until we reached their destination and when they asked for money. Well it is hard to explain, when we do not speak the same language. One of these gentlemen tryed to speak to nearby standing policeman, but after few minutes policeman left and so have I. Next ride was a happy one. During my German language practice I was also fed by the driver’s mother-co-pilot. Arriving to Ardebil, still about 70km from Astara – my Kaspian Sea destination, I have met these crazy geezers who made me roller-skate and listen to forbidden metal music. I suffered a lot because they also fed me with some tasty Iranian pizza and gave an evil hand band, which I could not take of my hand until this very moment. Then they drove me to Astara although they were not planning to leave Ardebil. Bad!!!
After a romantic but evil night in my tent at free beach camp, I got up into rainy morning. Fresh bread and cheese becoming my breakfast for 1 dollar, I spent some time looking for a shop with sim cards, so I could get an Iranian number(0(098)9376429971). At some point I met this guy called Payam who is Iranian kick-box champion with the sweetest voice and good guitar skill. With his help I bought a female scarf in my favorite green color. After this success he invited me to his home for lunch. Now I say that I thought I would be hungry more often than ‘not hungry’ but reality is far from it. I think people here feel sorry when they look at me and always try to feed me like a little piggy. Well I am pink and have funny tails… Before meal was ready Payam has entertained me with his music performance. Thumbs up though it is not really my cup of tea. Later before foody-experience we checked their colorful and fruity garden which tasted sweet and smelled like honey.
For lunch his mother cooked delicious fish which was served with local rice and some other goodies, I could not stop eating until all plates were empty. This I needed to burn and so we went to the beach, meeting some crazy fishing guys. Why crazy? You can come and see for yourself. Payam then had a great idea getting a motorbike and having a ride into a local jungles. Rice fields, bee hives, hills and GREEN, everything in this area is green and yes I must not forget, I was riding a bike after so many years and that was a cherry on the top of another great day.
I am loving this trip BIG time! Thank you all people who have fun with me.

Ankara - East Turkey - Iran - Tabriz #2

...I felt really strange when visiting Babak's home, because as soon as we entered the house all women and kids went to the other room. Fortunately it eased a bit when he called his mother out and we had chance to introduce. With another friend of Babak we stayed up until late and discussed many life and culture related issues.
Next morning we went out for breakfast and had a walk around a local parks and streets, meeting many friends who would not hesitate to practise their English with a stranger. Later we also visited city and the museum of famous Iranian poet (name i cannot remember). After we spent few moments in crowdy park where many local people and crows have picnic together. Tasting local cakes and non-alcoholic fruity brew was essential to gain more energy for further explorations. The sightseeing and transportation was provided by another Babak's friend who drove us around and even offered me to sit behind his car's steering wheel which I did not feel like trying especially when seeing local trafic.
In the meantime, they dropped me at the center where I met Amir, who has saved me previous night when sending me a message with Babak's number who could host me that night. This guy Amir is so far the creaziest Iranien creature I have so far met, and I do not think I will meet many crazier if any. At this point I was trying to find a VisaCard friendly cashpoint, when I learned that Visa is not supported in Iran and therefore I can not really use my account. Fortunately I have little bit of cash and that will have to be enough for me to last my stay in Iran. I have changed few dollars for funny local money, where thay have two sorts, Rials and Tomans where 100 Tomans = 1000 Rials = approximately 1 USD. Also here we met another traveller from Slovakia Miso who was accommodated by Amir too. And so we made our way to my next host Daryosh(Amir is a guy who I have contacted via CouchSurfing, he was the only positively responding person(out of those 3 requests I managed to send;) but because he could not host at this times, he managed the couches at his friends' places, who have no problem with it). I left there my big rucksack and went with Amir and Miso towards another host for Miso(also managed by Amir the 'couch manager'). Uniting with guy called Hatef we made it to music institute, where they both (Amir and Hatef) have their qopus/komuz (Azerbaijani/Turkish traditional string instrument) teacher and listened to a local folk. Azerbaijani folk feels very strong, emotional, and most of all it gives a never-give-up attitude for people.
Being hungry we have tryed some local specialities - egg and potato wrapped in a bread with the yogurt and herbs(dill+mint) soup. Very vegetarian and tasty.
Next early morning we decided to hike to the top of local 'Red Montain', which is just above the city of Tabriz. Big crowds climbing up with us, red hills, valley chill-out, cooking ever present tea, playing qopus. Beautiful! After this we came back to Hatef place and straight have been called to the table for lunch. Again tasty local dish, I unfortunately do not recall its name. After this lunch me and Miso prepeared the snack for first Couchsurfing meeting in Tabriz - our traditional potato pancake, also called Harula:). With very curious mum of Hatef it went very quick, and so my dish was finalised by the touch of Iranian mother. It could have not been better. Little but happy gathering/picnic in park has given me another opportunity to meet more nice Iranians, who help me to understand this culture and habits. At night me and and Miso were invited by Hatef parents to a family dinner-meeting-birthday party, where we again had chance to experience something completely different from what we saw so far. Rich and specious interior all filled by posh furniture, silver cutlery, many courses to start and finish with, again very friendly and happy Iranians. Having traditional, or maybe also not so traditional fun until early morning hours has uncovered another face of Iranian culture, the culture behind the closed doors. I would never expect to find my hipster-punk-alternative-whatever being at such a family gathering.
Now again I write and there much more to write but my time in internet cafe is running out, I will bring more, also about the attempt to climb the 3rd highest hill in Iran, and also some fotos. I promise;)

Ankara - East Turkey - Iran - Tabriz #1

Night in Ankara I have spent with saviour Mehmet from Azerbaijan, who has accepted my last minute couch request. I hope he past his final exam and is now happy celebrating and planning some nice trips. In the morning I went to the city, took few pictures, ate a hearty kebab and made my way out of the city to catch a ride. Hitch-hiking in Turkey for seems to be a peace of cake I have never waited for long time. At night I was walking through city called Sivas where I was dropped by very talkative truck driver with whom I have had interesting conversation nevermind the fact that his English was not much better than my Turkish. I Sivas I first thought spending a night would be an idea, but after failing to find a hostel a being taken to the cheapest hotel and negotiated price as low as 25 Turkish Lira (1TL=0.43EUR(I do not think the hostel would be cheaper than this)) I decided to go further and try my luck but in the end just slept a couple of hours in my little tent outside of the city and as soon as the raised I kept going farther. Beautiful nature in the east of Turkey made me want to return, perhaps once when I will have a motorbike. I am strongly recommending Turkey. The variety in nature from north to south and east to west is amazing, while the distance is bearable. Near Iranian border next morning I have not missed the opportunity to meet closer with Kurdish 'terrorist' people, who have invited me first for çay, but then made me dine with them too, which was as tasty as funny. Fresh bread with withe soft cheese, yogurt, lots of tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers finalised by collective picture. 
Soon after I have been crossing the border to Iran. First city behind the border is called Bazargan, where I found an Internet cafe, sent few accommodation requests and tried to hitch a ride to Tabriz. There I knew it was not going to be easy because Iranians do not know the idea of hitch-hiking nor it is easy to explain it. So ended up on the so called mini-bus, which is a normal car, taking me to next village, where I was almost forced to take a bus. I did not want to argue and it was very hot, I decide to take this offer. In Tabriz we arrived late, and being dropped at the of this not so small city (2million people) I took a taxi, asking for the nearest internet cafe, the seemed to understand but later I have doubts when arriving to hotel. Fortunately receptionist spoken English and I managed to explain to him that I only needed internet. Using a pc in the office behind reception I found a number to Babak, who was able to host me instead of Amir who I have asked at first. Taxi driver then took me further to the destination where Babak was to pick me up(after getting his phone number, i called him and for better orientation receptionist negotiated the directions). Lots of fun started when the taxi driver started to ask for money, he asked for much more than he would ask the local person and I knew it and refused to pay whole amount, because I did not have that much in Rial. After a while I managed to gain my rucksack back and walked away from this gentleman with a smile on my face like this :), because I could already see my next host Babak. He and his friends took me to his place where I first in my life visited muslim family... to be continued, because now I am going to meet more nice people.