Chubar is a little town near Astara. People here, as it is quit small place, tend to be very friendly and respectful but I am not saying that elsewhere they are not. Here I was brought by guy called mr Y who I have found on CS, after making a phone call he came to pick me up to Astara with mr A accompanied with mr Ash. These other 2 people are Y's good friends and also English students. Yes, mr Y is a local private English teacher (but also student at university) and speaks this language very well. I was taken to mr A place where I was told to stay for first night. Although I did not plan to stay any longer it took me 4 days to leave this place. They made me feel very comfortable, ensuring I would not be bored for a second. Mr A is a history teacher, very calm, relaxed gentleman who looks after his family well. He lives with his wife and 3 sons. Taking lessons of English and hosting people from all around the world he tries to improve his language skills. Great personality, great family... Hospitality, big thing, breakfast ready as soon as I opened my eyes, lunch before I had chance get hungry after breakfast and so on... I think you do not get such service when staying in most expensive hotels, though I have never stayed in one :)... And its honesty is extra! During my stay I was taken to all nice places around, visiting A's kiwi farm, rice fields, swimming in the largest lake in the world called دریای خزر, trying to teach this pleasurable activity to A's oldest son, who at his 12 years speaks very good English even better than his father. I think I am a poor teacher, I do not have much patience, but I can always try. We also have been running through the sandy beaches, where we do not need any shoes and can roar freely barefooted. Mr Y and mr Ash have taken me for hiking in surrounding mountains, which are not high but still very picturesque. It is the local jungle full rice fields, forests, bee hives and its keepers... And very humid. I can also feel I am getting closer to India because cows they hang around almost everywhere they can eat grass, beach, jungle, grassy alley between roads... Opposite Y's home wedding preparations took a place and so he did not miss the opportunity to show me the local traditions. First part of wedding here is like a party for groom, doors wide open for anyone to come, dance and wish him the best of luck. People here can become quiet wild and have strong passion for dancing. The guests give money to groom's family member, first tapping them on his forehead and then they dance with these money throwing them all around... Me as the only foreigner, was invited to the 'dance-carpets' by the elder of wedding(he used to be an English literature teacher, so his announcement was in English too) who by pure coincidence was a member of Y's family and he asked me to dance with him. Of course there was no chance to refuse this invitation as there was around 300 guests impatiently looking at me and waiting to experience some liquid dancing performance. I have tried my best and left after few songs with sweat on my face and massive ovations;))... Next day we saw the bride being brought to her husband home, where she shall live forever. Very nice moments waited for me in Chubar...
Next I moved to Rasht, hitchhiking, 'unfortunately' at some point unable to explain what I was doing I was paid for the bus which took me to the city. Here before meeting my next host I met few crazy old and divorced geezers, who spoke English and said lots of funny things, many of which I would not expect out their mouths. I was amused. Later in the day I reached mrs H's home where I was allowed to stay for next few days. First I shared her guest space with other 2 CSers from Switzerland. Next day all 4 of us went to tour near by places, Rudkhan (medieval) Castle, which is built of brick and stone. We had tasty lunch just next to the spring, beneath the castle. The price for everything we buy was always being beaten down by our host and negotiator mrs H. Then we shared taxi to Masouleh which is a beautiful village built in the steep hill. Its little sreets' pavement is a roof of another houses bellow. Very calm and atmospheric place where we sat in a cafe, drank cay, ate cookies and smoked shisha enjoying the mists falling down from the hilltops.
Mrs H is a very active, happy and polite human, who would challenge your memory with big amount of information. She loves traveling and is very open to new adventures. Now I can say that I have found my Iranian mother too. She looked after me like my own. At some point I dared to challenge her husband in chess but I was far from being a decent competitor. He is a master of this game and also table tennis. And he loves fishing. Their sons are around my age and are all very smart and open. And I think they all enjoyed my cabbage dish - 'halusky s kapustou'. In Rasht I also met few more people including mrs M and her Scottish friend Raul, who took to their favorite cafe place, full of artistic artifacts and relaxed tunes. Also other guy Yan who took me to the old market place...
Next I made my way to Tonekabon, where mrs H's friend Ann stays and so I have got shelter for next few days. On my way here I met this crazy truck driver, who fed me well with kebab and even invited me to his place which is further east near Caspian. He would also offer me money as I tried to explain to him that my budget is little and why I hitchhike.
Endless generosity and hospitality...
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