Sunday, 21 August 2011

Boundaries?

Trying to get up early when there is no solid schedule set may be unfair challenge with my own laziness. Packing rucksack with all I consider necessary, tent, sleeping bag, warm and weatherproof overalls, camera, knife, compass... Or should I rather say unpacking all that I would not need. Leaving warm family house for market, buying water, bread, butter, raisins, nuts, apples, chocolate, whatever I felt would be effective to carry/eat. Little pot and instant soup, in case I could make a fire. Feeling I filled my rucksack enough I found myself waiting for a shared taxi to get full and ready for departure. Finishing one adventure just so the other one can begin.
Under an hour it took to leave the boarding spot. Roads here are usually very narrow and wrecked and so even short distance may take ages. Fortunately these so called 'jeeps' are certainly among the fastest vehicles. From Srinagar an hour and half ride to Anatnak, where I remembered to buy another maybe-useful gear, not to leave my luggage too light. Another 30 minutes trying to find people who are willing to travel Pahalgam. At around 3 pm I reached this destination, got a tasty lunch in form of a dal and chapatti, creamed up with curd. Stronged up I jumped on the rooftop of the bus going to Aru. Next piece of puzzle to my adventure, rooftop bus ride finally finds it place including a bonus - magnificent mountain views. There I was enjoying the ride together with boys for whom school just finished. Jumping off I did not hesitate to start the trek being well-directed by locals. Foresty and steep beginning of the route was a kind invitation and drawn a very wide smile up on my face. Not many people I met in first 2 hours and those few I always asked to assure myself that I am going correct way to Leddrevath. There I reached in little longer than 2 hours. I met a tourist guide who would be telling me that I am doing impossible but of course very possible with him... Naaaah, I can not believe such talks anymore and lucky enough I met people working on tourist cottage (governmental property) restoration. They were kind enough to invite me to have a cup of Kashmiry chai, milky and salty one with tasty cake. As we talked I got very good information on the trek and so I was able to update those I already carried. In the cottage, these people were staying at, was little spare space for random stranger like me and so they could share it with me. Smoking hubble-bubble and talking about local habits, finalising this day with a tasty dinner Coq ala Kashmir. Night was not easy to sleep through as there were few little creatures or so called mice trying to sneak into my rucksack and get the nuts/whatever they like to feed on. And as I lit my torch cute little one would give me an innocent gaze, asking why do I have to make it so difficult, there I should be giving a resolution and handing a hand full of nuts over to restless rodent family. No I said and laid back giving my bag a big hug. They would never resist and at least bit a bit of foam, so I remembered.
Early in the morning, finishing a breakfast tea and buttered bread killed with a chunk of garlic, I ascended towards Tarssar lake(it is based in altitude of almost 4000 meters). Beautiful sceneries fed my eyes since I left Pahalgam the day before. What a munch. I am looking forward films being processed and printed.
It took around five and a half hours(including short breaks to eat raisins or chocolate; this part of journey was mostly going up) to reach very near lake, where I would feel too tired and so took almost an hour of rest on sun-heated stones. Then I climbed the near steep hill so I could see around, finding that I was rested just very close to lake itself. So I snapped few shots during a short walk around, talked to marmots which would squeak to alarm others of my presence. On my way back I stopped at the large tent which was surrounded by horses and sheep, occupied by shepherds who live in this area and look after their herds. Offering them my crumbled bread&butter combination spiced up by cucumber, they would not really fancy sharing, instead I was served with yet another cup of tasty local tea. Cutting vegetable with my swiss-made knife I asked for an attention of the elder shepherd who was willing to have a closer look. Soon he gave me his own folding knife telling me business was done exchanging not leaving me too happy about it. And as little of language we shared I was trying to convince him about my feeling and get my knife back but not in my back. Just as I felt giving this wild man a moral lesson, he would under pressure of rest of his shepherd crew return this item back to me. but I was now ready to agree with his business intention and we did exchange knives in the end again and forwarded through our short friendship. (I know that my self-righteousness and stubbornness one day will come at the great cost.) Both happy we shook hands and gaining more instructions from him I started to return back to the valley beneath. It did not take me more than hour, but the clouds in front were not giving a friendliest perspective nor my watch telling it was four in the afternoon(it gets dark at around 7pm). The other side of the river which I was crossing bare-footed that day once already, a shepherd woman in bright colored dress gestured an invitation. And so I started to search a crossing without taking my boots of. Few minutes later I was at the humblest accommodation - plastic foil covered tent with not high stony wall around. Negotiation of my overnight shelter was accepted very quickly and soon I found myself sitting within sipping a tea. There was number of people coming in and out all the time and as I in the end figured out all these people would be staying inside this tent. Communication was established with those who spoke a bit of English. Again as my trip goes I would be given a tasty and very spicy dinner, very local mutton with rice. The most successful payback was a tobacco and my rolling skill so I could make a cigarette for every single member of the family, except the wife who is not to harm her health(when it was only me and her in the tent, when all other men where with herd she sneaked a little tobacco into the hubble-bubble and smoked quickly a bit before anyone noticed). After counting sheep and dinner we were all ready to rest. Eight people crowded inside this humble little place where interrupted by whistle of the one guarding the herd. There was an attack of a wild animal (possibly leopard/bear) and caused these shepherds to run around making strange alarming noise and whistle which I assume was to scare invader. They even used home-made pyrotechnics. Unfortunately one of the sheep did not survive the attack.
In the morning I quickly got up, said 'shukria' to hospitable family, washed myself in the river and ate some for breakfast before leaving valley. Area I was walking through was extremely peaceful, quiet and I would not meet anybody for hours. At this point my only source of orientation was compass and intuition. Up and downs, long flat valleys, downs and ups, stones or golf-course grass, sunshine or drizzle. Hours of pleasant walking. Later in the afternoon I was reaching some herds and their shepherds again, asking for the directions, some would know more than the others. At around 3 pm I was advised to cross over a hill which after 7 hours of walk would not seem the easiest obstacle. Rested my body having a lunch and with very good spirits initiated the final part of my hike. As they said it is behind that hill I thought it was not going to be too far and would reach the civilized world in order to take a bus back to Srinagar soon. I crossed the valley and climbed up the hill, taking no more then hour and half of time. At the top, I could after 2 days see a village again giving me a warmth of satisfaction. It was just that village was scaled in a great ratio. To shorten this story; it took me over three hours to reach the bottom of this steep hill and it was one of the greatest fights of myself and my embodiment. My knees were trembling and it felt like I could not even walk any more. Thinking I could not go further but pushed by responsibility and dissimpathy for incapability. When despair comes very close, makes me very happy when overcome.
As I reached the village and first houses, I met a man carrying an axe, I (seemingly weak and exhausted) asked him where I could find a main road or bus stop. He without hesitation began to lead a way asking where I was going, disappointing me with information that there was no more bus to where I wanted to go. Lucky I was once again because this gentleman invited me to his home first just for a cup of tea but then suggested me to stay overnight. I must have looked very desperate as the family looked after me like a little baby... Full care, stop.
Next morning I could not feel good leaving without a little bakshish(bribe) which of course did not want to be accepted but I was not giving a choice. Now I was ready and fresh to take a bus back to Srinagar - 60 kilometers = 3 hours in the local bus, what a delight.

Tuesday, 16 August 2011

City welcomes

It is when one deboards the train, solving accommodation issue, sticking fingers inside ears trying to block the noise of the loudest honker passing by. It is when there is too many people around, too many going opposite direcion, too many going the same; when the road is impossible to cross...
Eating at Sikh's restaurant is generally a guarantee of good quality/price food, I am always checking for the towel-headed guy behind the counter. Shyfully testing new dishes, most of them contain chilly but would not be too hot for me though sometimes I get enough sweating on my forehead. Favorite one is called Thali, it is one where you get full plate of different sauces-dals-legumen soup plus vegetables, plus bread or/and rice, delightfully varying from kitchen to kitchen/day to day. My stomach strikes/hurts when I consume chilly-containing food 3 times a day and therefore I eliminate if possible. Fruit or just plain roti/chapati/naan(bread) can be gotten at many places. Also one can be sometimes lucky to find an omelet, strange thing is that when they say vegetarian restaurant they usually mean that it is vegan - no eggs nor diary products.
Finding place to stay in Delhi was not easy but I have succeeded in the end spending each of my 3 nights in different part of town and with different people definitely worth it. Right at the beginning I bought the travel card for 3 days and Delhi metro, spending 300 Rupees -(minus) 50 Rupees depository fee which were refunded to me when returning this card.
Highlights of Delhi-experience:
- Dirty and busy streets of Old Delhi, which would normally be the downlight but somehow I have enjoyed them. Just being flowed by streams of city busyness and dirt, washed off by frequent showers, having the cheapest possible meals - 30 Rupees for very tasty Thali inside a rat-hole enlightened by candles. Very cheap and dirty romance was amusing myself.
- Other is pretty good and new metro, but Delhi is huge and needs much more anyway. - Playing with kites and smoking chillum on the roof of a house in presidential gardens, where public have no access, how do you think I managed? I blinked my left eye at the guards and they right away called a driver to tour me around the forbidden area...
- Partying hard on 10th story building roof until there was no more drinks and people to carry on with.
- Meeting (by a pure chance) friends from Hampi, in a streets of Delhi? Ever since I do not believe the city is that big.
- few more things, but I feel too lazy to write today
Summarized as typical Delhi adventure, crazy although I crazed it my own way, enjoyable short stay. Does not scare me no more.
At the train to Jammu I met yet another of strangers-humans and we traveled together all the way to Srinagar, making this not short journey much more pleasant. First night here I spent in hotel run by CSer, so I did not have to pay but made me feel bit strange, also meeting his business-chasing friends who were kind enough to offer anything they could have sold to me, rich-but-poor tourist. Unlucky I always have to make them, wasting their energy on me who would all the time smile at them describing my budget.
Yesterday I was lucky enough to be able to shift away from this CS hotelier and stay with family, where I certainly enjoy my stay much more and experience Kashmiry life-style.
Floating around the lakes full of lotus and water lilly, being mesmerised by murmur of a paddle pushing the little boat or shikara forwards, full relaxation. This morning I was taken to early vegetable market exchange which takes place almost daily on one of these lakes in a little bay and in very early morning - at around 5am... Little gardening also helps to clean not only garden itself but my head too.

Thursday, 11 August 2011

very New destinations

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfugtAWxooU

It has been few months since I left Oxford. Particularly 5 months minus 12 days. I have traveled and visited countries, from UK to France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia(yes, I am going to name them all;), Bulgaria, Turkey, Iran, Bangladesh and not quite finally India. Target of a journey among the others as you already know was to hitch a ride from Oxford to Delhi. Reaching the New Delhi, I can conclude that it is surely not impossible. I have made around 3/4 of this ten thousand kilometers long journey, slightly disappointing myself not to make it all the way, though decisions had to be taken and half way through Iran I took a flight avoiding Pakistan towards unknown Bangladesh. Never to regret this step, I am pleased by 2 weeks' experience in Bangla 'God-forsaken' country, sufficient substitute for Pakistania I believe.
There is a junction and one shall quickly choose the direction. I feel slightly enlightened and enriched but not much different me than before this trip. I feel I am finding a way into myself but I am not quite there, it is a life-long trip. I improvise little more freedom into my tiny existence-now by having a go wherever and being present in very present. It is very difficult but very easy at same time, letting go, all, and just go. It is only certain not-long moments I can feel such achievement. Well anyway...
From Goa to Hampi, village of hundred temples. Peace and positive vibes have been surrounding myself from the very beginning till, until now. The place of my stay in this village where many tourist come to search for temples and peace, was Hampi Children Trust. Accidentally but fortunately I was lucky enough to stay in a place where the idea is to help who need it most - our youngest. It is obviously an investment for upcoming times so called futures feeding and giving them our time, share the knowledge and experience.
Mr Kali, the coordinator/chief/manager/maintainer/all-in-one-man and me have agreed on certain volunteer assistance for this house. It has been moved from other place and therefore enough stuff to be refurbished. First of all but, of course, was a spontaneous introduction to curious children who were just having their lunch.
Short description of HCT: it is a facility for approximately 35 children from poor families to get their 3 meals during a school-day - in India it is 6 days a week(Sunday is off, as well as working week, whereas this rest day I think varies from one area to another) - they do their homework with assistance of volunteers, or even get different classes, whatever may be useful for them and volunteers are happy and capable of teaching. No, I have not given any classes, I only interacting with kids in my retarded clown-like way and helped a bit with their homework. When it came to maintenance I have painted few surfaces which were requiring it and also combining Kali's Indian and my Slovak building skills mounted a shelf where it seemed appropriate. Yes I mixed cement with sand and water and laid bricks using this mixture to fix it together; I felt amused having such a privilege in India. I must say thanks to L for entertaining Deutsche Sprache lessons together with couple of bright Indian students.
Around the temples I spent 3-4 hours every day just walking, jumping or climbing around. Very interesting spot to look for spirits within the temples, careless roaming around, suitable rocks just to jump and climb about. Something what makes me happy like those kids when I make grimace. Purest and simplest joy!
In village of peace paradoxically bulldozers have been smashing its way to the central temple in Hampi, bringing down the 'illegal'(I quote it because if they were suppose to do this with all illegally built houses in India, I think 500 000 000 people would have no place to stay) constructions/houses of main bazar street as government won a trial to make this place more cultural-historical friendly or perhaps rather tourism-profitable place. Lets not be pink-glassed.
Everyday an hour or two I also spent playing djembe or anything with a friend Gali who appears to be a djembe(and few other instruments)-master in his little music shop/home. Always a way to chill and let off. I bought jew's harp which is not juice but jaws or something like that, when one plays it long enough it may happen to be even a bit juicy so I am not sure. I am learning how to play it, anywhere I feel like it.


Last day before taking my over-night train to Delhi I cooked promised pancakes ala crepes with fresh mango/banana mix as desert for hungry and curious ones, and some even asked for second portion. Those innocent minds truly know what makes Rado happy.
And train took me here, to the hell, after all that heavenness need is to see very minus of our human-face(-book)... Lets balance it so I am not completely (in)sane.

Wednesday, 3 August 2011

Counting the rain drops, raining the mindblocks

After all my day in Mumbai did not turn that dark and rainy, I had one of those euphoric moods so I would give everyone a huge hug just smiling at them. It is a moment when my heart is jumping happy and the sky would be bright blue full of sunshine no matter how dark and stormy night it really is. It is my coming out of the filthy tunnel of an anger and disbelieve excusing myself of all failure. Greeting everything as it comes, making it all my way.
Mumbai is a Bentley going through the dirtiest slums, where people have not slept under proper shelter forever dreaming about smallest progress. The gap is only getting greater, nothing new in this part of the world either, it so deep that those down there would be forsaken all their life unless they could fly.
Roaming the streets of one of the largest cities in the world I do not get more attention than regularly, taking a picture of the British built Gateway of India, favourite tourist attraction... Where am I getting when I find myself at such spot? It is that I am somehow becoming a routine, I am feeling my spark and excitement dissolve in the time lines stretched by. It has not been 3 months yet and I am already tiring myself loosing a track of my primal devotion and purpose. I have to do something more, more than just roaming pointlessly. I feel sometimes way too eased up, almost nothing can disturb me and the other minute it is a little honk and I go mental. Reason for these extremes is that I feel inactive, not doing too much of anything fulfilling, not last few days, or is it just that there so much happening that it feels casual I cannot be too bothered? (I am trying to retrospect recent happenings.)
Being a little rain-splashed to the darker place in my head here in Goa makes it strange typing about positives or anything. And I still write this with a smile on my face, I wonder whether this text is as amusing for you as it is for me, I guess it rather sounds like nonsense. Well that is exactly what I see when looking at the mirror.
In Goa I stayed with a weirdest person of my trip so far, the spaces very far out there... Craziest approach, smoking gecko's tails dipped in the finest Blender's Pride Indian brew I soon found myself swimming in the Indian Ocean. There was no other way I could imagine myself meeting up with this huge pool. Ocean has accepted me and greeted me well feeling my appreciation. The day was only young and so more tails and jars ended up shaking my embodiment, twisting the spirits. Following has not been much different from first, I in a way have enjoyed this gentleman - as declared by himself - sick mind, me trying to understand it more and learn from it. It would always catch my interest watching self-trashed human being in conscious realisation of this fact, trying to carry on with life and perhaps give it a good dot. More it is close to myself realising my own self-destructive instinct as a contrary to survival one. Three nights were enough for me to flee away. Not too far though. Generally the life in westernised Goa - main income of this district is tourism, so it is made - leaves a bit trashy impression. At least it is off season and not many of us is around and so everything is much cheaper - I found a ramshackle(never heard this word before but I love it) room but with clean sheet and lock on the door and even my own bathroom for 200 Rupees(I firstly wanted to squat a place on the beach but did not have enough guts, also a boat did seem as a possibility but rain was stronger mind-maker) and rented a motorbike for 150 Rupees for whole day. And I rode all around, spent a rainy day scooting to the unknown places of nearby villages, shooting some pictures (oh yes, I must praise myself for fixing my dear Yashica and we can again fully enjoy snapping a wild shots together;). Soaking wet I enjoyed few bottles of Indomerican beer with strangers in the strangers' bar, sharing of a local stories and travel experiences. Thanks to this meeting I also have a place to stay in Bremen. It feels so good to encounter a sincere invitation and I cannot help myself not declaring such a meeting successful...
Today I checked out, drunk tea and played Vietnamese card game with new American friends and bought a book for my tomorrow's train ride to Hampi - Huxley's final book Island - and I am not pessimistically but prospectively looking forward.

rock&roll