Monday, 7 November 2011
Sunday, 11 September 2011
Addiction may cause strong people
Now that I am here in Gorakhpur(50km away from Nepalese border) thinking of what shall I think of the past 2-month-India-experience, with certain I can conclude one: the time is 'never' enough. In a way it is very hectic but chilled country which is being ruined by fast western self-consuming trend. Some may say that India is dirty and its people unclean, but I call it honest dirt. It is not nice to have trash everywhere but at least one can see what consequences this type of life-approach bring right away, while in west it is all being buried and incinerated away from mass' sight, 'it wasn't me' whistling while kicking the s.h.i.t. under the carpet. No excuse for any of these. India and its people still feel more innocent then western, still more dignity, respect and honesty but then one usually gets a cold shower in form of obvious trust abuser. I would say one of key social problems nowadays and anywhere is such an abuse of relationship, trust and honesty, that we distance ourselves, build the walls of prejudice and close little gate to the world and life. I suppose it is us and our rotten momentary nature. I declare my-rotten-self a war!
Anyhow I also wanted to mention some good times I have recently gone through. I met a good old friend in Vashisht, small village near Manali. No, it was not a coincidence we knew it was going to happen, sooner or later. Lu and her recent friend took me for climbing session, I have to note my first outdoor sport(rope) climbing. I have also been trusted enough to do my first ever belaying. Just very relaxed and joyful seansa including chocolate and chocolate biscuits. Later in the night we all very hungry found a pleasant place to dine and unwound interesting philosophic topics with yet another to me very enjoyable human-incarnation from Slovenja. And that was he who mentioned he was leaving to mountains for very good boulders day after the next and this idea made me visit Saku again next day.
Just in front of the wooden temple I met Jay fully packed ready for trip to Delhi and towards Nepal. We went on having a special lassi - bhang lassi, which have made the rest of my day more intense. With Saku I have confirmed the time of departure next morning at five, which I was too lazy to make. Leaving my guesthouse at around 9am I bought few apples and garlic on my way to bus-stand. There I was able to get local bus going near enough. Late in the afternoon I got off and exchanged my 3 hours sleeping sacrifice for walking to the spot before dusk. I would say a good deal done! Reaching C@#$u(I feel like not disclosing the name of this place in order to keep it as good and not so popular; only to those who ask and prove themselves) I found three dhabas. I was coming and asking whether they knew my friend Saku and at the last one they had even heard of me. Laloo's Dhaba, what an honour. Few days of lazy chill in/out of this 'restaurtent' surrounded by high hills, organic green peas farm and great boulders. No more I needed. Later me, Saku and Enrike took our tents and food stocks and went even more wild. Living among the rocks, cooking our own stow-food, enjoying life-climbing...
My mind is still there with them.
Anyhow I also wanted to mention some good times I have recently gone through. I met a good old friend in Vashisht, small village near Manali. No, it was not a coincidence we knew it was going to happen, sooner or later. Lu and her recent friend took me for climbing session, I have to note my first outdoor sport(rope) climbing. I have also been trusted enough to do my first ever belaying. Just very relaxed and joyful seansa including chocolate and chocolate biscuits. Later in the night we all very hungry found a pleasant place to dine and unwound interesting philosophic topics with yet another to me very enjoyable human-incarnation from Slovenja. And that was he who mentioned he was leaving to mountains for very good boulders day after the next and this idea made me visit Saku again next day.
Just in front of the wooden temple I met Jay fully packed ready for trip to Delhi and towards Nepal. We went on having a special lassi - bhang lassi, which have made the rest of my day more intense. With Saku I have confirmed the time of departure next morning at five, which I was too lazy to make. Leaving my guesthouse at around 9am I bought few apples and garlic on my way to bus-stand. There I was able to get local bus going near enough. Late in the afternoon I got off and exchanged my 3 hours sleeping sacrifice for walking to the spot before dusk. I would say a good deal done! Reaching C@#$u(I feel like not disclosing the name of this place in order to keep it as good and not so popular; only to those who ask and prove themselves) I found three dhabas. I was coming and asking whether they knew my friend Saku and at the last one they had even heard of me. Laloo's Dhaba, what an honour. Few days of lazy chill in/out of this 'restaurtent' surrounded by high hills, organic green peas farm and great boulders. No more I needed. Later me, Saku and Enrike took our tents and food stocks and went even more wild. Living among the rocks, cooking our own stow-food, enjoying life-climbing...
My mind is still there with them.
Thursday, 8 September 2011
Friday, 2 September 2011
Steep, deep, won't retreat!
Driving a bus in Himalaya is an art of steering wheel. Passengers holding their breath when bus wobbling over deep chasm, loose edges of the road between Srinagar and Leh make a ride adrenaline experience. Bus was stopping half-way in Kirgil where dormitory near the bus stand became our overnight shelter, joining few other 'stuck' travelers in this little village discussing fair trade over a local cup of kahwa tea.
Leh is an ancient capital of Himalayan Kingdom, now such a beautiful place being destructed by development of this area, in last few decades when it was opened for tourism.
Overland accessibility only few months during a year makes number of visitors peak in mid summer. 3500 meters above sea level is good starting point for further adventure.
With couple of freshly made friends from Srinagar-Leh tour Jay and Lei we decided to find information about doable trek without professional guidance. United finger pointed the Digar on map searched.
Starting point was at Leh bus station, packed up with usual trekking gear and food for 2-3 days we left at around 17:30 reaching the far end of Saboo village 40 minutes later. There we started to walk following the river up the valley. Less than hour it took for sun to hide and under dusk we settled. To make a fire we collected dry grass and yak's feces which make very good fire fuel where there is no wood available.
Early next morning after munching local home-made apricot jam and bread we folded the tents and sleeping bags back into our rucksacks and started hiking further up the river. Constant not-too-steep ascend took several hours before we met first person going the opposite direction and so we were assured of correct way to the pass. Digar La was reached after non-easy 'free-walking' (when one can not find the path and takes whichever supposed the most enjoyable) over sharp rocks and final zig-zag 200-300 meters to total 5300. Headache and weakness wanted to overwhelm us but we did play hard. Great feeling when spotting the other side of a hill is sort of reward which need not many words, just inhaling fresh air and feeding eyes with rich views. After both eyes and stomachs fed we parted with Lei who had to head back to Leh to catch a flight back to Mumbai next day. So only Jay and me continued down hill towards the other-side camp which we managed to find in 2 hours.
One red and one dark green tent signified the site surrounded by Sherpas' horses and semi-wild yaks. First we tried to make a fire but supposedly such altitude and oxygen lack make it difficult. Being greeted by Sherpas I chopped onions and carrots which I then cooked on their stove adding in their salt and fresh spring water. Humble soup was later upgraded by Sherpa's tasty chilly-vegetable stew and crumbled toasting bread making it the best fit for a dinner at the time. While me preparing dinner Jay found a wooden box and other leftovers which we later used as fuel for warming fire. The night was very cold and we did not manage to sleep a lot. Waking up and little wash in a spring set us up for another hike, now towards the Digar village. Incredible wheat fields growing in local sandy soil allow these people to produce most of what they consume. Their remote position makes them almost completely self-sufficient, powered by little hydroelectric power plant and photovoltaic panels installed. Asking locals where we could seek for a place to obtain food, one of local families invited us to their home and provided the hospitality which is nothing unusual here. Very traditional Mountain Dew(r) and Tetley's lemon tea unfortunately proved presence of globalisation even in so difficultly accessed area, but family members and tasty local dish made all those unexpected materials look innocent. Saying our thanks and farewell journey continued through long and exhausting deserted plateaus. Walking was tiring but scenery rewarding and pushing us step forward. From the Digar village it was approximately 30 KM which we walked to more civillised place called Khalsar. Setting our new single day walking record to over 40 KM we had filling dinner at local tea/food house. Later we were accommodated at next door guesthouse which as we later found out was facilitated with no toilet nor bathroom and after short discussion with landlord I negotiated our stay for no more than 50 Rupees per person/night. Omelet breakfasts and wash in a river was good start for hitchhiking attempt towards Nubra Valley. Second car which was driven by a happy monk called Lotus picked us up and an entertainment took a place while reaching monastry in Somur. There we enjoyed a prayer and tea+bread hospitality.
Now three days passed since we left Leh and we decided to head back to town. Getting on those few passing vehicles did not turn up to be easiest. First part was traveled thanks to army truck and its agreeable crew. Finding ourselves back in Khalsar we were trying luck for couple of hours finalising our wait by defeat and unfull contacted car/shared taxi. Fast and furious were driver's throttle/break pedal pushing - steering wheel handling but assured we were by Insha'Allah. Well we survived even though not making it in time on after-fasting dinner.
Back in Leh. Now in Manali, local charas is a quality and many good climbing spots make me think of staying longer...
Leh is an ancient capital of Himalayan Kingdom, now such a beautiful place being destructed by development of this area, in last few decades when it was opened for tourism.
Overland accessibility only few months during a year makes number of visitors peak in mid summer. 3500 meters above sea level is good starting point for further adventure.
With couple of freshly made friends from Srinagar-Leh tour Jay and Lei we decided to find information about doable trek without professional guidance. United finger pointed the Digar on map searched.
Starting point was at Leh bus station, packed up with usual trekking gear and food for 2-3 days we left at around 17:30 reaching the far end of Saboo village 40 minutes later. There we started to walk following the river up the valley. Less than hour it took for sun to hide and under dusk we settled. To make a fire we collected dry grass and yak's feces which make very good fire fuel where there is no wood available.
Early next morning after munching local home-made apricot jam and bread we folded the tents and sleeping bags back into our rucksacks and started hiking further up the river. Constant not-too-steep ascend took several hours before we met first person going the opposite direction and so we were assured of correct way to the pass. Digar La was reached after non-easy 'free-walking' (when one can not find the path and takes whichever supposed the most enjoyable) over sharp rocks and final zig-zag 200-300 meters to total 5300. Headache and weakness wanted to overwhelm us but we did play hard. Great feeling when spotting the other side of a hill is sort of reward which need not many words, just inhaling fresh air and feeding eyes with rich views. After both eyes and stomachs fed we parted with Lei who had to head back to Leh to catch a flight back to Mumbai next day. So only Jay and me continued down hill towards the other-side camp which we managed to find in 2 hours.
Now three days passed since we left Leh and we decided to head back to town. Getting on those few passing vehicles did not turn up to be easiest. First part was traveled thanks to army truck and its agreeable crew. Finding ourselves back in Khalsar we were trying luck for couple of hours finalising our wait by defeat and unfull contacted car/shared taxi. Fast and furious were driver's throttle/break pedal pushing - steering wheel handling but assured we were by Insha'Allah. Well we survived even though not making it in time on after-fasting dinner.
Back in Leh. Now in Manali, local charas is a quality and many good climbing spots make me think of staying longer...
Sunday, 21 August 2011
Boundaries?
Trying to get up early when there is no solid schedule set may be unfair challenge with my own laziness. Packing rucksack with all I consider necessary, tent, sleeping bag, warm and weatherproof overalls, camera, knife, compass... Or should I rather say unpacking all that I would not need. Leaving warm family house for market, buying water, bread, butter, raisins, nuts, apples, chocolate, whatever I felt would be effective to carry/eat. Little pot and instant soup, in case I could make a fire. Feeling I filled my rucksack enough I found myself waiting for a shared taxi to get full and ready for departure. Finishing one adventure just so the other one can begin.
Under an hour it took to leave the boarding spot. Roads here are usually very narrow and wrecked and so even short distance may take ages. Fortunately these so called 'jeeps' are certainly among the fastest vehicles. From Srinagar an hour and half ride to Anatnak, where I remembered to buy another maybe-useful gear, not to leave my luggage too light. Another 30 minutes trying to find people who are willing to travel Pahalgam. At around 3 pm I reached this destination, got a tasty lunch in form of a dal and chapatti, creamed up with curd. Stronged up I jumped on the rooftop of the bus going to Aru. Next piece of puzzle to my adventure, rooftop bus ride finally finds it place including a bonus - magnificent mountain views. There I was enjoying the ride together with boys for whom school just finished. Jumping off I did not hesitate to start the trek being well-directed by locals. Foresty and steep beginning of the route was a kind invitation and drawn a very wide smile up on my face. Not many people I met in first 2 hours and those few I always asked to assure myself that I am going correct way to Leddrevath. There I reached in little longer than 2 hours. I met a tourist guide who would be telling me that I am doing impossible but of course very possible with him... Naaaah, I can not believe such talks anymore and lucky enough I met people working on tourist cottage (governmental property) restoration. They were kind enough to invite me to have a cup of Kashmiry chai, milky and salty one with tasty cake. As we talked I got very good information on the trek and so I was able to update those I already carried. In the cottage, these people were staying at, was little spare space for random stranger like me and so they could share it with me. Smoking hubble-bubble and talking about local habits, finalising this day with a tasty dinner Coq ala Kashmir. Night was not easy to sleep through as there were few little creatures or so called mice trying to sneak into my rucksack and get the nuts/whatever they like to feed on. And as I lit my torch cute little one would give me an innocent gaze, asking why do I have to make it so difficult, there I should be giving a resolution and handing a hand full of nuts over to restless rodent family. No I said and laid back giving my bag a big hug. They would never resist and at least bit a bit of foam, so I remembered.
Early in the morning, finishing a breakfast tea and buttered bread killed with a chunk of garlic, I ascended towards Tarssar lake(it is based in altitude of almost 4000 meters). Beautiful sceneries fed my eyes since I left Pahalgam the day before. What a munch. I am looking forward films being processed and printed.
It took around five and a half hours(including short breaks to eat raisins or chocolate; this part of journey was mostly going up) to reach very near lake, where I would feel too tired and so took almost an hour of rest on sun-heated stones. Then I climbed the near steep hill so I could see around, finding that I was rested just very close to lake itself. So I snapped few shots during a short walk around, talked to marmots which would squeak to alarm others of my presence. On my way back I stopped at the large tent which was surrounded by horses and sheep, occupied by shepherds who live in this area and look after their herds. Offering them my crumbled bread&butter combination spiced up by cucumber, they would not really fancy sharing, instead I was served with yet another cup of tasty local tea. Cutting vegetable with my swiss-made knife I asked for an attention of the elder shepherd who was willing to have a closer look. Soon he gave me his own folding knife telling me business was done exchanging not leaving me too happy about it. And as little of language we shared I was trying to convince him about my feeling and get my knife back but not in my back. Just as I felt giving this wild man a moral lesson, he would under pressure of rest of his shepherd crew return this item back to me. but I was now ready to agree with his business intention and we did exchange knives in the end again and forwarded through our short friendship. (I know that my self-righteousness and stubbornness one day will come at the great cost.) Both happy we shook hands and gaining more instructions from him I started to return back to the valley beneath. It did not take me more than hour, but the clouds in front were not giving a friendliest perspective nor my watch telling it was four in the afternoon(it gets dark at around 7pm). The other side of the river which I was crossing bare-footed that day once already, a shepherd woman in bright colored dress gestured an invitation. And so I started to search a crossing without taking my boots of. Few minutes later I was at the humblest accommodation - plastic foil covered tent with not high stony wall around. Negotiation of my overnight shelter was accepted very quickly and soon I found myself sitting within sipping a tea. There was number of people coming in and out all the time and as I in the end figured out all these people would be staying inside this tent. Communication was established with those who spoke a bit of English. Again as my trip goes I would be given a tasty and very spicy dinner, very local mutton with rice. The most successful payback was a tobacco and my rolling skill so I could make a cigarette for every single member of the family, except the wife who is not to harm her health(when it was only me and her in the tent, when all other men where with herd she sneaked a little tobacco into the hubble-bubble and smoked quickly a bit before anyone noticed). After counting sheep and dinner we were all ready to rest. Eight people crowded inside this humble little place where interrupted by whistle of the one guarding the herd. There was an attack of a wild animal (possibly leopard/bear) and caused these shepherds to run around making strange alarming noise and whistle which I assume was to scare invader. They even used home-made pyrotechnics. Unfortunately one of the sheep did not survive the attack.
In the morning I quickly got up, said 'shukria' to hospitable family, washed myself in the river and ate some for breakfast before leaving valley. Area I was walking through was extremely peaceful, quiet and I would not meet anybody for hours. At this point my only source of orientation was compass and intuition. Up and downs, long flat valleys, downs and ups, stones or golf-course grass, sunshine or drizzle. Hours of pleasant walking. Later in the afternoon I was reaching some herds and their shepherds again, asking for the directions, some would know more than the others. At around 3 pm I was advised to cross over a hill which after 7 hours of walk would not seem the easiest obstacle. Rested my body having a lunch and with very good spirits initiated the final part of my hike. As they said it is behind that hill I thought it was not going to be too far and would reach the civilized world in order to take a bus back to Srinagar soon. I crossed the valley and climbed up the hill, taking no more then hour and half of time. At the top, I could after 2 days see a village again giving me a warmth of satisfaction. It was just that village was scaled in a great ratio. To shorten this story; it took me over three hours to reach the bottom of this steep hill and it was one of the greatest fights of myself and my embodiment. My knees were trembling and it felt like I could not even walk any more. Thinking I could not go further but pushed by responsibility and dissimpathy for incapability. When despair comes very close, makes me very happy when overcome.
As I reached the village and first houses, I met a man carrying an axe, I (seemingly weak and exhausted) asked him where I could find a main road or bus stop. He without hesitation began to lead a way asking where I was going, disappointing me with information that there was no more bus to where I wanted to go. Lucky I was once again because this gentleman invited me to his home first just for a cup of tea but then suggested me to stay overnight. I must have looked very desperate as the family looked after me like a little baby... Full care, stop.
Next morning I could not feel good leaving without a little bakshish(bribe) which of course did not want to be accepted but I was not giving a choice. Now I was ready and fresh to take a bus back to Srinagar - 60 kilometers = 3 hours in the local bus, what a delight.
Under an hour it took to leave the boarding spot. Roads here are usually very narrow and wrecked and so even short distance may take ages. Fortunately these so called 'jeeps' are certainly among the fastest vehicles. From Srinagar an hour and half ride to Anatnak, where I remembered to buy another maybe-useful gear, not to leave my luggage too light. Another 30 minutes trying to find people who are willing to travel Pahalgam. At around 3 pm I reached this destination, got a tasty lunch in form of a dal and chapatti, creamed up with curd. Stronged up I jumped on the rooftop of the bus going to Aru. Next piece of puzzle to my adventure, rooftop bus ride finally finds it place including a bonus - magnificent mountain views. There I was enjoying the ride together with boys for whom school just finished. Jumping off I did not hesitate to start the trek being well-directed by locals. Foresty and steep beginning of the route was a kind invitation and drawn a very wide smile up on my face. Not many people I met in first 2 hours and those few I always asked to assure myself that I am going correct way to Leddrevath. There I reached in little longer than 2 hours. I met a tourist guide who would be telling me that I am doing impossible but of course very possible with him... Naaaah, I can not believe such talks anymore and lucky enough I met people working on tourist cottage (governmental property) restoration. They were kind enough to invite me to have a cup of Kashmiry chai, milky and salty one with tasty cake. As we talked I got very good information on the trek and so I was able to update those I already carried. In the cottage, these people were staying at, was little spare space for random stranger like me and so they could share it with me. Smoking hubble-bubble and talking about local habits, finalising this day with a tasty dinner Coq ala Kashmir. Night was not easy to sleep through as there were few little creatures or so called mice trying to sneak into my rucksack and get the nuts/whatever they like to feed on. And as I lit my torch cute little one would give me an innocent gaze, asking why do I have to make it so difficult, there I should be giving a resolution and handing a hand full of nuts over to restless rodent family. No I said and laid back giving my bag a big hug. They would never resist and at least bit a bit of foam, so I remembered.
Early in the morning, finishing a breakfast tea and buttered bread killed with a chunk of garlic, I ascended towards Tarssar lake(it is based in altitude of almost 4000 meters). Beautiful sceneries fed my eyes since I left Pahalgam the day before. What a munch. I am looking forward films being processed and printed.
It took around five and a half hours(including short breaks to eat raisins or chocolate; this part of journey was mostly going up) to reach very near lake, where I would feel too tired and so took almost an hour of rest on sun-heated stones. Then I climbed the near steep hill so I could see around, finding that I was rested just very close to lake itself. So I snapped few shots during a short walk around, talked to marmots which would squeak to alarm others of my presence. On my way back I stopped at the large tent which was surrounded by horses and sheep, occupied by shepherds who live in this area and look after their herds. Offering them my crumbled bread&butter combination spiced up by cucumber, they would not really fancy sharing, instead I was served with yet another cup of tasty local tea. Cutting vegetable with my swiss-made knife I asked for an attention of the elder shepherd who was willing to have a closer look. Soon he gave me his own folding knife telling me business was done exchanging not leaving me too happy about it. And as little of language we shared I was trying to convince him about my feeling and get my knife back but not in my back. Just as I felt giving this wild man a moral lesson, he would under pressure of rest of his shepherd crew return this item back to me. but I was now ready to agree with his business intention and we did exchange knives in the end again and forwarded through our short friendship. (I know that my self-righteousness and stubbornness one day will come at the great cost.) Both happy we shook hands and gaining more instructions from him I started to return back to the valley beneath. It did not take me more than hour, but the clouds in front were not giving a friendliest perspective nor my watch telling it was four in the afternoon(it gets dark at around 7pm). The other side of the river which I was crossing bare-footed that day once already, a shepherd woman in bright colored dress gestured an invitation. And so I started to search a crossing without taking my boots of. Few minutes later I was at the humblest accommodation - plastic foil covered tent with not high stony wall around. Negotiation of my overnight shelter was accepted very quickly and soon I found myself sitting within sipping a tea. There was number of people coming in and out all the time and as I in the end figured out all these people would be staying inside this tent. Communication was established with those who spoke a bit of English. Again as my trip goes I would be given a tasty and very spicy dinner, very local mutton with rice. The most successful payback was a tobacco and my rolling skill so I could make a cigarette for every single member of the family, except the wife who is not to harm her health(when it was only me and her in the tent, when all other men where with herd she sneaked a little tobacco into the hubble-bubble and smoked quickly a bit before anyone noticed). After counting sheep and dinner we were all ready to rest. Eight people crowded inside this humble little place where interrupted by whistle of the one guarding the herd. There was an attack of a wild animal (possibly leopard/bear) and caused these shepherds to run around making strange alarming noise and whistle which I assume was to scare invader. They even used home-made pyrotechnics. Unfortunately one of the sheep did not survive the attack.
In the morning I quickly got up, said 'shukria' to hospitable family, washed myself in the river and ate some for breakfast before leaving valley. Area I was walking through was extremely peaceful, quiet and I would not meet anybody for hours. At this point my only source of orientation was compass and intuition. Up and downs, long flat valleys, downs and ups, stones or golf-course grass, sunshine or drizzle. Hours of pleasant walking. Later in the afternoon I was reaching some herds and their shepherds again, asking for the directions, some would know more than the others. At around 3 pm I was advised to cross over a hill which after 7 hours of walk would not seem the easiest obstacle. Rested my body having a lunch and with very good spirits initiated the final part of my hike. As they said it is behind that hill I thought it was not going to be too far and would reach the civilized world in order to take a bus back to Srinagar soon. I crossed the valley and climbed up the hill, taking no more then hour and half of time. At the top, I could after 2 days see a village again giving me a warmth of satisfaction. It was just that village was scaled in a great ratio. To shorten this story; it took me over three hours to reach the bottom of this steep hill and it was one of the greatest fights of myself and my embodiment. My knees were trembling and it felt like I could not even walk any more. Thinking I could not go further but pushed by responsibility and dissimpathy for incapability. When despair comes very close, makes me very happy when overcome.
As I reached the village and first houses, I met a man carrying an axe, I (seemingly weak and exhausted) asked him where I could find a main road or bus stop. He without hesitation began to lead a way asking where I was going, disappointing me with information that there was no more bus to where I wanted to go. Lucky I was once again because this gentleman invited me to his home first just for a cup of tea but then suggested me to stay overnight. I must have looked very desperate as the family looked after me like a little baby... Full care, stop.
Next morning I could not feel good leaving without a little bakshish(bribe) which of course did not want to be accepted but I was not giving a choice. Now I was ready and fresh to take a bus back to Srinagar - 60 kilometers = 3 hours in the local bus, what a delight.
Tuesday, 16 August 2011
City welcomes
It is when one deboards the train, solving accommodation issue, sticking fingers inside ears trying to block the noise of the loudest honker passing by. It is when there is too many people around, too many going opposite direcion, too many going the same; when the road is impossible to cross...
Eating at Sikh's restaurant is generally a guarantee of good quality/price food, I am always checking for the towel-headed guy behind the counter. Shyfully testing new dishes, most of them contain chilly but would not be too hot for me though sometimes I get enough sweating on my forehead. Favorite one is called Thali, it is one where you get full plate of different sauces-dals-legumen soup plus vegetables, plus bread or/and rice, delightfully varying from kitchen to kitchen/day to day. My stomach strikes/hurts when I consume chilly-containing food 3 times a day and therefore I eliminate if possible. Fruit or just plain roti/chapati/naan(bread) can be gotten at many places. Also one can be sometimes lucky to find an omelet, strange thing is that when they say vegetarian restaurant they usually mean that it is vegan - no eggs nor diary products.
Finding place to stay in Delhi was not easy but I have succeeded in the end spending each of my 3 nights in different part of town and with different people definitely worth it. Right at the beginning I bought the travel card for 3 days and Delhi metro, spending 300 Rupees -(minus) 50 Rupees depository fee which were refunded to me when returning this card.
Highlights of Delhi-experience:
- Dirty and busy streets of Old Delhi, which would normally be the downlight but somehow I have enjoyed them. Just being flowed by streams of city busyness and dirt, washed off by frequent showers, having the cheapest possible meals - 30 Rupees for very tasty Thali inside a rat-hole enlightened by candles. Very cheap and dirty romance was amusing myself.
- Other is pretty good and new metro, but Delhi is huge and needs much more anyway. - Playing with kites and smoking chillum on the roof of a house in presidential gardens, where public have no access, how do you think I managed? I blinked my left eye at the guards and they right away called a driver to tour me around the forbidden area...
- Partying hard on 10th story building roof until there was no more drinks and people to carry on with.
- Meeting (by a pure chance) friends from Hampi, in a streets of Delhi? Ever since I do not believe the city is that big.
- few more things, but I feel too lazy to write today
Summarized as typical Delhi adventure, crazy although I crazed it my own way, enjoyable short stay. Does not scare me no more.
At the train to Jammu I met yet another of strangers-humans and we traveled together all the way to Srinagar, making this not short journey much more pleasant. First night here I spent in hotel run by CSer, so I did not have to pay but made me feel bit strange, also meeting his business-chasing friends who were kind enough to offer anything they could have sold to me, rich-but-poor tourist. Unlucky I always have to make them, wasting their energy on me who would all the time smile at them describing my budget.
Yesterday I was lucky enough to be able to shift away from this CS hotelier and stay with family, where I certainly enjoy my stay much more and experience Kashmiry life-style.
Floating around the lakes full of lotus and water lilly, being mesmerised by murmur of a paddle pushing the little boat or shikara forwards, full relaxation. This morning I was taken to early vegetable market exchange which takes place almost daily on one of these lakes in a little bay and in very early morning - at around 5am... Little gardening also helps to clean not only garden itself but my head too.
Eating at Sikh's restaurant is generally a guarantee of good quality/price food, I am always checking for the towel-headed guy behind the counter. Shyfully testing new dishes, most of them contain chilly but would not be too hot for me though sometimes I get enough sweating on my forehead. Favorite one is called Thali, it is one where you get full plate of different sauces-dals-legumen soup plus vegetables, plus bread or/and rice, delightfully varying from kitchen to kitchen/day to day. My stomach strikes/hurts when I consume chilly-containing food 3 times a day and therefore I eliminate if possible. Fruit or just plain roti/chapati/naan(bread) can be gotten at many places. Also one can be sometimes lucky to find an omelet, strange thing is that when they say vegetarian restaurant they usually mean that it is vegan - no eggs nor diary products.
Finding place to stay in Delhi was not easy but I have succeeded in the end spending each of my 3 nights in different part of town and with different people definitely worth it. Right at the beginning I bought the travel card for 3 days and Delhi metro, spending 300 Rupees -(minus) 50 Rupees depository fee which were refunded to me when returning this card.
Highlights of Delhi-experience:
- Dirty and busy streets of Old Delhi, which would normally be the downlight but somehow I have enjoyed them. Just being flowed by streams of city busyness and dirt, washed off by frequent showers, having the cheapest possible meals - 30 Rupees for very tasty Thali inside a rat-hole enlightened by candles. Very cheap and dirty romance was amusing myself.
- Other is pretty good and new metro, but Delhi is huge and needs much more anyway. - Playing with kites and smoking chillum on the roof of a house in presidential gardens, where public have no access, how do you think I managed? I blinked my left eye at the guards and they right away called a driver to tour me around the forbidden area...
- Partying hard on 10th story building roof until there was no more drinks and people to carry on with.
- Meeting (by a pure chance) friends from Hampi, in a streets of Delhi? Ever since I do not believe the city is that big.
- few more things, but I feel too lazy to write today
Summarized as typical Delhi adventure, crazy although I crazed it my own way, enjoyable short stay. Does not scare me no more.
At the train to Jammu I met yet another of strangers-humans and we traveled together all the way to Srinagar, making this not short journey much more pleasant. First night here I spent in hotel run by CSer, so I did not have to pay but made me feel bit strange, also meeting his business-chasing friends who were kind enough to offer anything they could have sold to me, rich-but-poor tourist. Unlucky I always have to make them, wasting their energy on me who would all the time smile at them describing my budget.
Yesterday I was lucky enough to be able to shift away from this CS hotelier and stay with family, where I certainly enjoy my stay much more and experience Kashmiry life-style.
Floating around the lakes full of lotus and water lilly, being mesmerised by murmur of a paddle pushing the little boat or shikara forwards, full relaxation. This morning I was taken to early vegetable market exchange which takes place almost daily on one of these lakes in a little bay and in very early morning - at around 5am... Little gardening also helps to clean not only garden itself but my head too.
Thursday, 11 August 2011
very New destinations
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfugtAWxooU
It has been few months since I left Oxford. Particularly 5 months minus 12 days. I have traveled and visited countries, from UK to France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia(yes, I am going to name them all;), Bulgaria, Turkey, Iran, Bangladesh and not quite finally India. Target of a journey among the others as you already know was to hitch a ride from Oxford to Delhi. Reaching the New Delhi, I can conclude that it is surely not impossible. I have made around 3/4 of this ten thousand kilometers long journey, slightly disappointing myself not to make it all the way, though decisions had to be taken and half way through Iran I took a flight avoiding Pakistan towards unknown Bangladesh. Never to regret this step, I am pleased by 2 weeks' experience in Bangla 'God-forsaken' country, sufficient substitute for Pakistania I believe.
There is a junction and one shall quickly choose the direction. I feel slightly enlightened and enriched but not much different me than before this trip. I feel I am finding a way into myself but I am not quite there, it is a life-long trip. I improvise little more freedom into my tiny existence-now by having a go wherever and being present in very present. It is very difficult but very easy at same time, letting go, all, and just go. It is only certain not-long moments I can feel such achievement. Well anyway...
From Goa to Hampi, village of hundred temples. Peace and positive vibes have been surrounding myself from the very beginning till, until now. The place of my stay in this village where many tourist come to search for temples and peace, was Hampi Children Trust. Accidentally but fortunately I was lucky enough to stay in a place where the idea is to help who need it most - our youngest. It is obviously an investment for upcoming times so called futures feeding and giving them our time, share the knowledge and experience.
Mr Kali, the coordinator/chief/manager/maintainer/all-in-one-man and me have agreed on certain volunteer assistance for this house. It has been moved from other place and therefore enough stuff to be refurbished. First of all but, of course, was a spontaneous introduction to curious children who were just having their lunch.
Short description of HCT: it is a facility for approximately 35 children from poor families to get their 3 meals during a school-day - in India it is 6 days a week(Sunday is off, as well as working week, whereas this rest day I think varies from one area to another) - they do their homework with assistance of volunteers, or even get different classes, whatever may be useful for them and volunteers are happy and capable of teaching. No, I have not given any classes, I only interacting with kids in my retarded clown-like way and helped a bit with their homework. When it came to maintenance I have painted few surfaces which were requiring it and also combining Kali's Indian and my Slovak building skills mounted a shelf where it seemed appropriate. Yes I mixed cement with sand and water and laid bricks using this mixture to fix it together; I felt amused having such a privilege in India. I must say thanks to L for entertaining Deutsche Sprache lessons together with couple of bright Indian students.
Around the temples I spent 3-4 hours every day just walking, jumping or climbing around. Very interesting spot to look for spirits within the temples, careless roaming around, suitable rocks just to jump and climb about. Something what makes me happy like those kids when I make grimace. Purest and simplest joy!
In village of peace paradoxically bulldozers have been smashing its way to the central temple in Hampi, bringing down the 'illegal'(I quote it because if they were suppose to do this with all illegally built houses in India, I think 500 000 000 people would have no place to stay) constructions/houses of main bazar street as government won a trial to make this place more cultural-historical friendly or perhaps rather tourism-profitable place. Lets not be pink-glassed.
Everyday an hour or two I also spent playing djembe or anything with a friend Gali who appears to be a djembe(and few other instruments)-master in his little music shop/home. Always a way to chill and let off. I bought jew's harp which is not juice but jaws or something like that, when one plays it long enough it may happen to be even a bit juicy so I am not sure. I am learning how to play it, anywhere I feel like it.
Last day before taking my over-night train to Delhi I cooked promised pancakes ala crepes with fresh mango/banana mix as desert for hungry and curious ones, and some even asked for second portion. Those innocent minds truly know what makes Rado happy.
And train took me here, to the hell, after all that heavenness need is to see very minus of our human-face(-book)... Lets balance it so I am not completely (in)sane.
It has been few months since I left Oxford. Particularly 5 months minus 12 days. I have traveled and visited countries, from UK to France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia(yes, I am going to name them all;), Bulgaria, Turkey, Iran, Bangladesh and not quite finally India. Target of a journey among the others as you already know was to hitch a ride from Oxford to Delhi. Reaching the New Delhi, I can conclude that it is surely not impossible. I have made around 3/4 of this ten thousand kilometers long journey, slightly disappointing myself not to make it all the way, though decisions had to be taken and half way through Iran I took a flight avoiding Pakistan towards unknown Bangladesh. Never to regret this step, I am pleased by 2 weeks' experience in Bangla 'God-forsaken' country, sufficient substitute for Pakistania I believe.
There is a junction and one shall quickly choose the direction. I feel slightly enlightened and enriched but not much different me than before this trip. I feel I am finding a way into myself but I am not quite there, it is a life-long trip. I improvise little more freedom into my tiny existence-now by having a go wherever and being present in very present. It is very difficult but very easy at same time, letting go, all, and just go. It is only certain not-long moments I can feel such achievement. Well anyway...
From Goa to Hampi, village of hundred temples. Peace and positive vibes have been surrounding myself from the very beginning till, until now. The place of my stay in this village where many tourist come to search for temples and peace, was Hampi Children Trust. Accidentally but fortunately I was lucky enough to stay in a place where the idea is to help who need it most - our youngest. It is obviously an investment for upcoming times so called futures feeding and giving them our time, share the knowledge and experience.
Mr Kali, the coordinator/chief/manager/maintainer/all-in-one-man and me have agreed on certain volunteer assistance for this house. It has been moved from other place and therefore enough stuff to be refurbished. First of all but, of course, was a spontaneous introduction to curious children who were just having their lunch.
Short description of HCT: it is a facility for approximately 35 children from poor families to get their 3 meals during a school-day - in India it is 6 days a week(Sunday is off, as well as working week, whereas this rest day I think varies from one area to another) - they do their homework with assistance of volunteers, or even get different classes, whatever may be useful for them and volunteers are happy and capable of teaching. No, I have not given any classes, I only interacting with kids in my retarded clown-like way and helped a bit with their homework. When it came to maintenance I have painted few surfaces which were requiring it and also combining Kali's Indian and my Slovak building skills mounted a shelf where it seemed appropriate. Yes I mixed cement with sand and water and laid bricks using this mixture to fix it together; I felt amused having such a privilege in India. I must say thanks to L for entertaining Deutsche Sprache lessons together with couple of bright Indian students.
Around the temples I spent 3-4 hours every day just walking, jumping or climbing around. Very interesting spot to look for spirits within the temples, careless roaming around, suitable rocks just to jump and climb about. Something what makes me happy like those kids when I make grimace. Purest and simplest joy!
In village of peace paradoxically bulldozers have been smashing its way to the central temple in Hampi, bringing down the 'illegal'(I quote it because if they were suppose to do this with all illegally built houses in India, I think 500 000 000 people would have no place to stay) constructions/houses of main bazar street as government won a trial to make this place more cultural-historical friendly or perhaps rather tourism-profitable place. Lets not be pink-glassed.
Everyday an hour or two I also spent playing djembe or anything with a friend Gali who appears to be a djembe(and few other instruments)-master in his little music shop/home. Always a way to chill and let off. I bought jew's harp which is not juice but jaws or something like that, when one plays it long enough it may happen to be even a bit juicy so I am not sure. I am learning how to play it, anywhere I feel like it.
Last day before taking my over-night train to Delhi I cooked promised pancakes ala crepes with fresh mango/banana mix as desert for hungry and curious ones, and some even asked for second portion. Those innocent minds truly know what makes Rado happy.
And train took me here, to the hell, after all that heavenness need is to see very minus of our human-face(-book)... Lets balance it so I am not completely (in)sane.
Wednesday, 3 August 2011
Counting the rain drops, raining the mindblocks
After all my day in Mumbai did not turn that dark and rainy, I had one of those euphoric moods so I would give everyone a huge hug just smiling at them. It is a moment when my heart is jumping happy and the sky would be bright blue full of sunshine no matter how dark and stormy night it really is. It is my coming out of the filthy tunnel of an anger and disbelieve excusing myself of all failure. Greeting everything as it comes, making it all my way.
Mumbai is a Bentley going through the dirtiest slums, where people have not slept under proper shelter forever dreaming about smallest progress. The gap is only getting greater, nothing new in this part of the world either, it so deep that those down there would be forsaken all their life unless they could fly.
Roaming the streets of one of the largest cities in the world I do not get more attention than regularly, taking a picture of the British built Gateway of India, favourite tourist attraction... Where am I getting when I find myself at such spot? It is that I am somehow becoming a routine, I am feeling my spark and excitement dissolve in the time lines stretched by. It has not been 3 months yet and I am already tiring myself loosing a track of my primal devotion and purpose. I have to do something more, more than just roaming pointlessly. I feel sometimes way too eased up, almost nothing can disturb me and the other minute it is a little honk and I go mental. Reason for these extremes is that I feel inactive, not doing too much of anything fulfilling, not last few days, or is it just that there so much happening that it feels casual I cannot be too bothered? (I am trying to retrospect recent happenings.)
Being a little rain-splashed to the darker place in my head here in Goa makes it strange typing about positives or anything. And I still write this with a smile on my face, I wonder whether this text is as amusing for you as it is for me, I guess it rather sounds like nonsense. Well that is exactly what I see when looking at the mirror.
In Goa I stayed with a weirdest person of my trip so far, the spaces very far out there... Craziest approach, smoking gecko's tails dipped in the finest Blender's Pride Indian brew I soon found myself swimming in the Indian Ocean. There was no other way I could imagine myself meeting up with this huge pool. Ocean has accepted me and greeted me well feeling my appreciation. The day was only young and so more tails and jars ended up shaking my embodiment, twisting the spirits. Following has not been much different from first, I in a way have enjoyed this gentleman - as declared by himself - sick mind, me trying to understand it more and learn from it. It would always catch my interest watching self-trashed human being in conscious realisation of this fact, trying to carry on with life and perhaps give it a good dot. More it is close to myself realising my own self-destructive instinct as a contrary to survival one. Three nights were enough for me to flee away. Not too far though. Generally the life in westernised Goa - main income of this district is tourism, so it is made - leaves a bit trashy impression. At least it is off season and not many of us is around and so everything is much cheaper - I found a ramshackle(never heard this word before but I love it) room but with clean sheet and lock on the door and even my own bathroom for 200 Rupees(I firstly wanted to squat a place on the beach but did not have enough guts, also a boat did seem as a possibility but rain was stronger mind-maker) and rented a motorbike for 150 Rupees for whole day. And I rode all around, spent a rainy day scooting to the unknown places of nearby villages, shooting some pictures (oh yes, I must praise myself for fixing my dear Yashica and we can again fully enjoy snapping a wild shots together;). Soaking wet I enjoyed few bottles of Indomerican beer with strangers in the strangers' bar, sharing of a local stories and travel experiences. Thanks to this meeting I also have a place to stay in Bremen. It feels so good to encounter a sincere invitation and I cannot help myself not declaring such a meeting successful...
Today I checked out, drunk tea and played Vietnamese card game with new American friends and bought a book for my tomorrow's train ride to Hampi - Huxley's final book Island - and I am not pessimistically but prospectively looking forward.
rock&roll
Mumbai is a Bentley going through the dirtiest slums, where people have not slept under proper shelter forever dreaming about smallest progress. The gap is only getting greater, nothing new in this part of the world either, it so deep that those down there would be forsaken all their life unless they could fly.
Roaming the streets of one of the largest cities in the world I do not get more attention than regularly, taking a picture of the British built Gateway of India, favourite tourist attraction... Where am I getting when I find myself at such spot? It is that I am somehow becoming a routine, I am feeling my spark and excitement dissolve in the time lines stretched by. It has not been 3 months yet and I am already tiring myself loosing a track of my primal devotion and purpose. I have to do something more, more than just roaming pointlessly. I feel sometimes way too eased up, almost nothing can disturb me and the other minute it is a little honk and I go mental. Reason for these extremes is that I feel inactive, not doing too much of anything fulfilling, not last few days, or is it just that there so much happening that it feels casual I cannot be too bothered? (I am trying to retrospect recent happenings.)
Being a little rain-splashed to the darker place in my head here in Goa makes it strange typing about positives or anything. And I still write this with a smile on my face, I wonder whether this text is as amusing for you as it is for me, I guess it rather sounds like nonsense. Well that is exactly what I see when looking at the mirror.
In Goa I stayed with a weirdest person of my trip so far, the spaces very far out there... Craziest approach, smoking gecko's tails dipped in the finest Blender's Pride Indian brew I soon found myself swimming in the Indian Ocean. There was no other way I could imagine myself meeting up with this huge pool. Ocean has accepted me and greeted me well feeling my appreciation. The day was only young and so more tails and jars ended up shaking my embodiment, twisting the spirits. Following has not been much different from first, I in a way have enjoyed this gentleman - as declared by himself - sick mind, me trying to understand it more and learn from it. It would always catch my interest watching self-trashed human being in conscious realisation of this fact, trying to carry on with life and perhaps give it a good dot. More it is close to myself realising my own self-destructive instinct as a contrary to survival one. Three nights were enough for me to flee away. Not too far though. Generally the life in westernised Goa - main income of this district is tourism, so it is made - leaves a bit trashy impression. At least it is off season and not many of us is around and so everything is much cheaper - I found a ramshackle(never heard this word before but I love it) room but with clean sheet and lock on the door and even my own bathroom for 200 Rupees(I firstly wanted to squat a place on the beach but did not have enough guts, also a boat did seem as a possibility but rain was stronger mind-maker) and rented a motorbike for 150 Rupees for whole day. And I rode all around, spent a rainy day scooting to the unknown places of nearby villages, shooting some pictures (oh yes, I must praise myself for fixing my dear Yashica and we can again fully enjoy snapping a wild shots together;). Soaking wet I enjoyed few bottles of Indomerican beer with strangers in the strangers' bar, sharing of a local stories and travel experiences. Thanks to this meeting I also have a place to stay in Bremen. It feels so good to encounter a sincere invitation and I cannot help myself not declaring such a meeting successful...
Today I checked out, drunk tea and played Vietnamese card game with new American friends and bought a book for my tomorrow's train ride to Hampi - Huxley's final book Island - and I am not pessimistically but prospectively looking forward.
rock&roll
Thursday, 28 July 2011
41''46' ride, make sure your book is packed in
In Santi Niketan it has become a routine to ride a bike carelessly around the villages nearby, it is very good relax for me in the end of the day. At theater house I could get closer to rise harvesting process, all by hand, one by one... It also makes it taste much better knowing that it has been growing just outside the dinning room. Cooking with Sadu can be as joyful as riding a bike. He is a great cook and makes sure we all eat healthy meals, though the dinner time... well Sadu is in no hurry. Day before last he gave me a task to buy 1 kilo of chicken and a wine - yes Sadu likes his booze and smoke - although I could not find the wine shop I managed to get a chicken to meet his expectations, they slaughtered it in front of me so it was very fresh and... dead! No sight for vegetarian. Happy again to cook my favorite green-beans-creamy soup, it was good enough to be eaten by everybody, or perhaps they just did not want to touch my fragile cooking-feelings. I also visited the famous Tagore's university and I had good feelings about that. Very peaceful like whole village and relaxed place, great idea for learning environment.
Btw I want to say that I can not be much bothered taking pictures with digital camera, it is a hassle to use both, so I will present pictures from my film camera ones I am back, if the films survive my intense travel loads. Already have troubles with the other Yashica, the exposure-meter device does not want to work, if you have any ideas please do not hesitate to suggest (i hope it is only metal plate - poor contacts).
Issue raises when you want to book a long distance train, as it might be booked out for weeks, depending on destination. Fortunately I found the rail ticketing office, where I could book a ticket to Mumbai, bloody Mumbai.
I gave my farewell to Santi Niketan and took a train in the evening back to Kolkata, where I spent a night at the station, with many other 'waiting people'... It is actually not bad to do it this way, they have according facilities (shower I appreciated the most). At 8:20am my train left the Howrah(Kolkata) station - I had a berth in a sleeper for 656 Rupees. Such a journey can really drain a body especially if adding a digestion problems and not proper diet. Fortunately I bought nice book of Mr Tagore's selected short stories which kept me well entertained. Yes, I managed to read almost whole book as we arrived to Mumbai 2 days later at around 2 in the morning. Then I had not too many choices, I could stay at the station with a lot of other people but as my diarrhea worsened in the meantime I decided to find a cheap hotel. I do not know how cheap or expensive it was in the end but I payed 600 rupees for a room with a towel instead of bathroom, funny but sufficient. In the morning I had to argue over 10 Rupees when they charged me 50 instead of 40 for omelet - which was the price in menu in my room, though in the end I found out that the prices they had were all mixed up... I can only say this is very typical, but they payed me back.
And now I am so looking forward the beaches of Goa...
Btw I want to say that I can not be much bothered taking pictures with digital camera, it is a hassle to use both, so I will present pictures from my film camera ones I am back, if the films survive my intense travel loads. Already have troubles with the other Yashica, the exposure-meter device does not want to work, if you have any ideas please do not hesitate to suggest (i hope it is only metal plate - poor contacts).
Issue raises when you want to book a long distance train, as it might be booked out for weeks, depending on destination. Fortunately I found the rail ticketing office, where I could book a ticket to Mumbai, bloody Mumbai.
I gave my farewell to Santi Niketan and took a train in the evening back to Kolkata, where I spent a night at the station, with many other 'waiting people'... It is actually not bad to do it this way, they have according facilities (shower I appreciated the most). At 8:20am my train left the Howrah(Kolkata) station - I had a berth in a sleeper for 656 Rupees. Such a journey can really drain a body especially if adding a digestion problems and not proper diet. Fortunately I bought nice book of Mr Tagore's selected short stories which kept me well entertained. Yes, I managed to read almost whole book as we arrived to Mumbai 2 days later at around 2 in the morning. Then I had not too many choices, I could stay at the station with a lot of other people but as my diarrhea worsened in the meantime I decided to find a cheap hotel. I do not know how cheap or expensive it was in the end but I payed 600 rupees for a room with a towel instead of bathroom, funny but sufficient. In the morning I had to argue over 10 Rupees when they charged me 50 instead of 40 for omelet - which was the price in menu in my room, though in the end I found out that the prices they had were all mixed up... I can only say this is very typical, but they payed me back.
And now I am so looking forward the beaches of Goa...
Saturday, 23 July 2011
grIndia
Customs at the border made no problems and everything went smooth and quick. I have involuntary gained a guide at this stage, who would be kind enough to help, help spending some money definitely. West Bengal craziness is not much different from that one in Bangladesh, but its 'businessmen' seem to be a bit smarter and more experienced.
I took a train to Kolkata. This regional capital and fairly big city too, metropolitan-wise one of biggest in India, I reached late in the evening and was not easy to find a shelter though I managed but not cheap at all. The streets of the city at this our do show its raw and rough face. Dark and dirty, busy with dogs barking and fighting, cockroaches running from side to side, people sleeping on all sorts of spots and surfaces... Next morning I checked out and purchased my Indian sim+phone for 1200 Indian Rupees all together and with good old (British imported) bureaucracy it only took half an hour, requiring passport + 1 photocopy, one photo and a present address in India - all this for pre-paid sim? Using a phone in India you should be ready for piles of spam in form of SMS or non-human calls at least 1-2 a day. But always buy me a better mood with very refreshing a freshly squeezed juice/lemonade which is sold anywhere in the streets.
Later in the day after failing to find a host via CS I accommodated myself in the dormitory for 90 Rupees a night. This was non-clean nor dirty hotel in Sudder Street - which is full of foreigners and therefore many adequate places to stay. The same day I met Ash who was kind enough to show me around and explain few simple principles on living in India, tips and tricks which I may find useful. Price for meal may vary from 20 to 300 depending on what are you having and most importantly where it is being served. Next day I had a blind date with another CSer who has taken me for drinks and foods in rather fancier places(for me fancier place means that with AC and clean environment;) where prices were still not so high. I decided to have some beers and as it looked OK I took a meaty dish - Nepalese pork dumplings - Momo. Later we enjoyed more beers and Indian whiskey at another bar with people plus some extras from Czech Republic.
I was not feeling 100% since I came to India and it culminated early in the morning being sick and spending most of the morning in the toilet. All I ate whole day was water and managed to drink 2 plain toasts. Being strong but resting in the bed for all day I was new born next day though with not much energy left. Proper food and a dose of fruits have made stand on my feet again and I could be touring around Kolkata with my new Czech friends. We have visited the Victoria Monument - White House/Taj Mahal hybrid - I still can not believe I payed 150 Rupees to get in, although the museum was worth it.
After visiting few more places and a time spent looking for pickled gherkins but failing we made it to Czech guys host's place where I helped to prepare some chicken schnitzel with alternated potato salad, which we fed to amount of people. Splashing such a meal with a cold Indian lager may sound simple but at the time very pleasant. Especially when surrounded by young and nutty Indian law students...
Next day I returned to my hotel, picked my stuff, got bone-wet right after taking a shower in a pouring rain and at noon I have been on the train to Santi Niketan, where I was to find a peace and rest after crazy days in Kolkata meeting and staying with my dear Italian friends whom I met in Dhaka. I am staying at the theater house in the middle of jungle, with few people looking after the property and its surroundings and Sadu, the spiritual guard of the place and a great cook in one...
I took a train to Kolkata. This regional capital and fairly big city too, metropolitan-wise one of biggest in India, I reached late in the evening and was not easy to find a shelter though I managed but not cheap at all. The streets of the city at this our do show its raw and rough face. Dark and dirty, busy with dogs barking and fighting, cockroaches running from side to side, people sleeping on all sorts of spots and surfaces... Next morning I checked out and purchased my Indian sim+phone for 1200 Indian Rupees all together and with good old (British imported) bureaucracy it only took half an hour, requiring passport + 1 photocopy, one photo and a present address in India - all this for pre-paid sim? Using a phone in India you should be ready for piles of spam in form of SMS or non-human calls at least 1-2 a day. But always buy me a better mood with very refreshing a freshly squeezed juice/lemonade which is sold anywhere in the streets.
Later in the day after failing to find a host via CS I accommodated myself in the dormitory for 90 Rupees a night. This was non-clean nor dirty hotel in Sudder Street - which is full of foreigners and therefore many adequate places to stay. The same day I met Ash who was kind enough to show me around and explain few simple principles on living in India, tips and tricks which I may find useful. Price for meal may vary from 20 to 300 depending on what are you having and most importantly where it is being served. Next day I had a blind date with another CSer who has taken me for drinks and foods in rather fancier places(for me fancier place means that with AC and clean environment;) where prices were still not so high. I decided to have some beers and as it looked OK I took a meaty dish - Nepalese pork dumplings - Momo. Later we enjoyed more beers and Indian whiskey at another bar with people plus some extras from Czech Republic.
I was not feeling 100% since I came to India and it culminated early in the morning being sick and spending most of the morning in the toilet. All I ate whole day was water and managed to drink 2 plain toasts. Being strong but resting in the bed for all day I was new born next day though with not much energy left. Proper food and a dose of fruits have made stand on my feet again and I could be touring around Kolkata with my new Czech friends. We have visited the Victoria Monument - White House/Taj Mahal hybrid - I still can not believe I payed 150 Rupees to get in, although the museum was worth it.
After visiting few more places and a time spent looking for pickled gherkins but failing we made it to Czech guys host's place where I helped to prepare some chicken schnitzel with alternated potato salad, which we fed to amount of people. Splashing such a meal with a cold Indian lager may sound simple but at the time very pleasant. Especially when surrounded by young and nutty Indian law students...
Next day I returned to my hotel, picked my stuff, got bone-wet right after taking a shower in a pouring rain and at noon I have been on the train to Santi Niketan, where I was to find a peace and rest after crazy days in Kolkata meeting and staying with my dear Italian friends whom I met in Dhaka. I am staying at the theater house in the middle of jungle, with few people looking after the property and its surroundings and Sadu, the spiritual guard of the place and a great cook in one...
Sunday, 17 July 2011
Cat eats dog eats mouse eats monkey eats you
==I am listening to Ani DiFranco, delightful music, perhaps you shall play it while reading==
When leaving the 'cyber-cafe' where I wrote last post, down in Khulna, I asked some youngsters just outside whether they could recommend a cheap accommodation. As they were not sure, asking 'elder' next door who turned out to be Bob from CS, whom I sent a request earlier - there is at least one million people living in this city. Do we call it what? This gentleman offered a place to stay instead his home at the house of father Mathew, missionary place next orphanage run by these people. Very interesting experience and talks I had with those participating. I could feel good intentions with a little nastiness accompanying it. I mean they run youth camps, orphanage, help the poor, what is the price for it? You shall follow Christianity. OK. For kids from street it is better than nothing but I just can not help myself thinking this is so inappropriate way of helping others. I had chance of talking to people about much more progressive ideas and these ideas are already applied and work. For example there are schools which are more or less run by kids themselves - school owns a land which is cultivated by them - for example they grow fruits which when sold become sufficient source of income - and it may by anything, handycraft etc. So kids are spending bit more time in school studying and helping to run these facilities. It is also a way of learning a practical subject as well as theoretical. This I find a great idea in country like Bangladesh. So 'only donation' based organisation I found old-fashioned and inefficient, if there is not enough funds they simply cannot exist.
Anyway, pastor and head-staff working for this Christian organisation seemed to be well-off. They showed hospitality to me for which I had to pay though it was up to me how much, the 'have to' in pastor's sentence when asking for donation is never necessary - well it rather puts me off and I tend to give less if any.
During my stay in Khulna I visited Sunderbans - the largest mangrove forest in the world - mangrove is kind of trees which grow where fresh meets marine water, it is place where you can find animals such as Bengali Tiger, I fortunately have not met any (yes, there is dozens of people eaten by this cat each year in the area). I have seen some macaques and many crabs and shrimps which are also specific for this area. In the artificial pond there was a crocodile which wanted to eat me but I did not feel like letting him.
Finding a boat to Sunderbans may be challenging if you are not willing to spend a fortune and people around the mole sometimes really get on nerves. I mean this may happen everywhere, people sometimes approach me, 'an obvious(and of course veeeeeeeeeeeeeeery rich) tourist' and try to sell their goods and NO must be repeated several times in better case. One gets used to it quickly in order to enjoy whatever there is to be enjoyed.
From Khulna I took a bus to Kustia, the home of Fakir Lalon Shah the religious man of no religion, philosopher and poet who did not want to be casted or classed. Here I meet many real elders and real gurus of knowledge, spirituality, traditional Bengali music, painting, hand-crafts... Here I have chance to observe and talk the spirituality and means of life. Analising the core of our thoughts analising ourselves, the self-realisation.
Life is very complicated but very simple, balanced. I first need to understand myself before attempting to understand others. One of the top quotes: 'The God is us.' Few days at the hatchery furthered a big step the knowledge of my own self.
If you are looking for a spiritual journeys you should never miss this place.
When leaving the 'cyber-cafe' where I wrote last post, down in Khulna, I asked some youngsters just outside whether they could recommend a cheap accommodation. As they were not sure, asking 'elder' next door who turned out to be Bob from CS, whom I sent a request earlier - there is at least one million people living in this city. Do we call it what? This gentleman offered a place to stay instead his home at the house of father Mathew, missionary place next orphanage run by these people. Very interesting experience and talks I had with those participating. I could feel good intentions with a little nastiness accompanying it. I mean they run youth camps, orphanage, help the poor, what is the price for it? You shall follow Christianity. OK. For kids from street it is better than nothing but I just can not help myself thinking this is so inappropriate way of helping others. I had chance of talking to people about much more progressive ideas and these ideas are already applied and work. For example there are schools which are more or less run by kids themselves - school owns a land which is cultivated by them - for example they grow fruits which when sold become sufficient source of income - and it may by anything, handycraft etc. So kids are spending bit more time in school studying and helping to run these facilities. It is also a way of learning a practical subject as well as theoretical. This I find a great idea in country like Bangladesh. So 'only donation' based organisation I found old-fashioned and inefficient, if there is not enough funds they simply cannot exist.
Anyway, pastor and head-staff working for this Christian organisation seemed to be well-off. They showed hospitality to me for which I had to pay though it was up to me how much, the 'have to' in pastor's sentence when asking for donation is never necessary - well it rather puts me off and I tend to give less if any.
During my stay in Khulna I visited Sunderbans - the largest mangrove forest in the world - mangrove is kind of trees which grow where fresh meets marine water, it is place where you can find animals such as Bengali Tiger, I fortunately have not met any (yes, there is dozens of people eaten by this cat each year in the area). I have seen some macaques and many crabs and shrimps which are also specific for this area. In the artificial pond there was a crocodile which wanted to eat me but I did not feel like letting him.
From Khulna I took a bus to Kustia, the home of Fakir Lalon Shah the religious man of no religion, philosopher and poet who did not want to be casted or classed. Here I meet many real elders and real gurus of knowledge, spirituality, traditional Bengali music, painting, hand-crafts... Here I have chance to observe and talk the spirituality and means of life. Analising the core of our thoughts analising ourselves, the self-realisation.
Life is very complicated but very simple, balanced. I first need to understand myself before attempting to understand others. One of the top quotes: 'The God is us.' Few days at the hatchery furthered a big step the knowledge of my own self.
If you are looking for a spiritual journeys you should never miss this place.
Monday, 11 July 2011
Train is running late...
...nothing unusual in Bangladesh. Buying tickets can also be a peculiar matter, if you are not prepared for it. I went to buy myself a ticket in a day advance but could only get a standing version, which is not a best deal for 5-6 hour journey during the night. Of course my trip is not always so happy and positive, nor my mind can be set to bright modes all the time. Unlucky those who meet Rado floating within his dark cloud...
I made it back to Dhaka, spent few hours wandering around the camera-market, my lovely Praktica has decided to give up on me. I have tried to convince camera handy man to rescue her, but he said he couldn't. I do not blame him, parts for such ladies are not easy to get in this part of the world. And so I decided to find another one, well I only found another ONE, decent camera (Yashica FX-3 super 2000) but unclean 50/1.9 lens... Did not have many other choices, so negotiated its price down to 4000TK, which was my top.
Eating out I always try to omit meaty dishes, I have not eaten meet for over 2 weeks and I am still alive and healthy. Usually I dine rice with an omelet and lentil or vegetable stew, it is not so spicy for me. Eating outside does not give many options to choose my meal, but if it comes to sweet pastry available in every small tea kiosk, I think each of them has at least one very own and specific type. This and a 'white' cuppa I often use as a quick refresh.
First night of my second visit in Dhaka I have spent in Japanese hotel/dormitory which I first thought was fairly cheap, unfortunately it got a bit more expensive overnight stay(850TK(I have become a greedy tourist)).
All those street kids and crippled beggars make me want to give out all I have and run away... My anti-beggar syndrom remains stronger and I try not to give them money. Instead I share my food, buying bit extra for those who are hungry.
Never-easy life of Bangla people and yet they still manage to smile, this only embarrasses me when feeling too many hairs, shall this be a reminder for those never-happy? Countless troubles they faced in the past, many they stand against at the present and the future does not look pinkest either. Well they keep going, keep living through the mess and dirt left behind by other nations. Shall Bengali remain strong and never drop the weapon, fight through the rough lifetimes.
I will remain fascinated and will slap myself in every weak moment of mine.
Next day I left the hotel towards river-docks where I wanted to buy a ticket for the Rocket Steamer, which would take me south to Khulna. When entering a bus I met another friendly gentleman, speaking well English and after an hour bus ride in ever-busy traffic of Dhaka(no no, infrastructure of Dhaka is undoubtedly among the greatest I have had a chance to experience so far;), Mo(that would be his name) made me realise that what I needed before going downtown was a good cup of coffee at his place. From coffee we forwarded through tasty lunch and joint to pleasant debates and music explorations, also with other flatmate Key, the best Bangladeshi guitarist I know. What an honor. How lucky I must be to meet such a people all the time. Or perhaps it is because I try so hard: answer to question: 'Why Alone?'. When I finally finished this bigger-than-usual cup of coffee, I went to find the MRSTO (Mysterious Rocket Steamer's Ticket Office). That was a joke really, I could not stop laughing after being sent from one spot to another, after a while me and them both given up, guys checking the tickets at the entrance of the boat telling me to come 'tomorrow at 5pm to get my ticket'. Whatever!
Later I was to meet my new friend Mo and his wife Uru at the darkest of the rooms in Dhaka, my first time in the dark room, made me big smile on my face. I have been showed few tricks on picture making and post processing. This was on my to-do list for longer time now, since I bought my first own camera, my now dead Praktica.
My new friends also agreed to spare me paying the hotel for another night, so I 'only' needed to bring my luggage over to their but... Traveling through not too small city of Dhaka can be as exhausting as chasing a gazelle not always being cheetah. Climbing on the bus's roof-top, I can feel my time is coming soon and I am already checking it out - must be fun for sure. From 10am until 10 pm I think I spent 7 hours being stuck somewhere in the traffic or whipping ricksha-ala's blood sweating back...
Nice evening indeed I have spend in company of my new friends, fair draw in the match good vs strong, equalised in the last minute shaping my dreams for the rest of a night.
Next day's a strike(Hortel?) made the streets free of heavy traffic, only public transportation I could find, which was heavenly after a hellish previous day. Leaving me not so disappointed I only could buy 3rd class ticket with no bed, being offered an expensive staff cabin first when I had to show my insolvency, but finding a compromise with a cheap little bed where at least I could store my rucksack.
Whole night on the Steamer was interesting, I hope I took few nice pictures. It was sometimes just too difficult to escape all curious Bangladeshi eyes, questions...
Khulna is my current stop.
I made it back to Dhaka, spent few hours wandering around the camera-market, my lovely Praktica has decided to give up on me. I have tried to convince camera handy man to rescue her, but he said he couldn't. I do not blame him, parts for such ladies are not easy to get in this part of the world. And so I decided to find another one, well I only found another ONE, decent camera (Yashica FX-3 super 2000) but unclean 50/1.9 lens... Did not have many other choices, so negotiated its price down to 4000TK, which was my top.
Eating out I always try to omit meaty dishes, I have not eaten meet for over 2 weeks and I am still alive and healthy. Usually I dine rice with an omelet and lentil or vegetable stew, it is not so spicy for me. Eating outside does not give many options to choose my meal, but if it comes to sweet pastry available in every small tea kiosk, I think each of them has at least one very own and specific type. This and a 'white' cuppa I often use as a quick refresh.
First night of my second visit in Dhaka I have spent in Japanese hotel/dormitory which I first thought was fairly cheap, unfortunately it got a bit more expensive overnight stay(850TK(I have become a greedy tourist)).
All those street kids and crippled beggars make me want to give out all I have and run away... My anti-beggar syndrom remains stronger and I try not to give them money. Instead I share my food, buying bit extra for those who are hungry.
Never-easy life of Bangla people and yet they still manage to smile, this only embarrasses me when feeling too many hairs, shall this be a reminder for those never-happy? Countless troubles they faced in the past, many they stand against at the present and the future does not look pinkest either. Well they keep going, keep living through the mess and dirt left behind by other nations. Shall Bengali remain strong and never drop the weapon, fight through the rough lifetimes.
I will remain fascinated and will slap myself in every weak moment of mine.
Next day I left the hotel towards river-docks where I wanted to buy a ticket for the Rocket Steamer, which would take me south to Khulna. When entering a bus I met another friendly gentleman, speaking well English and after an hour bus ride in ever-busy traffic of Dhaka(no no, infrastructure of Dhaka is undoubtedly among the greatest I have had a chance to experience so far;), Mo(that would be his name) made me realise that what I needed before going downtown was a good cup of coffee at his place. From coffee we forwarded through tasty lunch and joint to pleasant debates and music explorations, also with other flatmate Key, the best Bangladeshi guitarist I know. What an honor. How lucky I must be to meet such a people all the time. Or perhaps it is because I try so hard: answer to question: 'Why Alone?'. When I finally finished this bigger-than-usual cup of coffee, I went to find the MRSTO (Mysterious Rocket Steamer's Ticket Office). That was a joke really, I could not stop laughing after being sent from one spot to another, after a while me and them both given up, guys checking the tickets at the entrance of the boat telling me to come 'tomorrow at 5pm to get my ticket'. Whatever!
Later I was to meet my new friend Mo and his wife Uru at the darkest of the rooms in Dhaka, my first time in the dark room, made me big smile on my face. I have been showed few tricks on picture making and post processing. This was on my to-do list for longer time now, since I bought my first own camera, my now dead Praktica.
My new friends also agreed to spare me paying the hotel for another night, so I 'only' needed to bring my luggage over to their but... Traveling through not too small city of Dhaka can be as exhausting as chasing a gazelle not always being cheetah. Climbing on the bus's roof-top, I can feel my time is coming soon and I am already checking it out - must be fun for sure. From 10am until 10 pm I think I spent 7 hours being stuck somewhere in the traffic or whipping ricksha-ala's blood sweating back...
Nice evening indeed I have spend in company of my new friends, fair draw in the match good vs strong, equalised in the last minute shaping my dreams for the rest of a night.
Next day's a strike(Hortel?) made the streets free of heavy traffic, only public transportation I could find, which was heavenly after a hellish previous day. Leaving me not so disappointed I only could buy 3rd class ticket with no bed, being offered an expensive staff cabin first when I had to show my insolvency, but finding a compromise with a cheap little bed where at least I could store my rucksack.
Whole night on the Steamer was interesting, I hope I took few nice pictures. It was sometimes just too difficult to escape all curious Bangladeshi eyes, questions...
Khulna is my current stop.
Wednesday, 6 July 2011
Sreemangal
In Bangladesh the waste bin - evil invention - has not been recognised yet, they try to reuse as much as they manage, send back to the cycle. Perhaps some of them do not even realise how impossible this seem to be in the 'modern' west.
Also my stomach has already improved and getting fully adapted to the local goodies. I still do not dare to drink tapped water but I am sure that I would not have a problem with it soon, just am giving it a time.
Food here is very tasty and even cheaper than that. Yesterday me and my new friend went to eat in kind of local fast-food, if I can call it like that only because people here usually eat a bit faster than elsewhere and it is cheaper. So for two people, two big portions of rice each, two bowls of vegetable stew each, a chilli omelet each and some other extras + water I paid 110 Taka, which is about 1 EUR/GBP. And we ended up very full. I went to restaurant too, we almost could not walk away because of full bellies - bill for both of us including 50 Dhaka tip - 400 Taka.
Everything here is very cheap, once I stayed in a hotel, little room, my own bathroom plus standards like TV and mosquito net, huge cockroach always priceless, and sometimes it is hard imagine room without a big fan above yourself - 200 Taka. Now I am staying with a family for 300 Dhaka/night, where I feel much more home than in the hotel. CouchSurfing is possible but very limited, as there is not many people registered and hard to find a host.
Today me and my new Bangla friend have rented a bicycles and rode around the local tea gardens, jungles, pineapple plantages, always being warmly greeted by local people, who many times do not close their mouths of all that amazement when they see me. Wow and all these fresh tropical fruits - most I have tried before, but it is nothing like this, fully ripen mangos, pineapples, bananas, coconuts, lime, I wish I could bring you a little bit of that great taste, or I rather say, you have to come and try... So yes, we rode our cycles in this area called Lawachara National Park, with many beautiful sights and villagers. We have also visited local school where I attempted to give a lesson from arithmetics, I do not think I could be a good teacher, rather a good clown to amuse kids?)
Swimming in the lake full of water-lilies... Drinking a five-color tea was another step in exploring the ways of this favorite activity of mine, milky tea here is very popular, while instead of fresh milk they put thickened and sweetened milk concentrate(I forgot an English abbreviation), very sweet but also tasty cha, as they call it here. Making a lemonade in the middle of lemon garden, have you got any sugar and a pinch of salt? You should definitely go for it.
Returning almost complete bicycles made us lucky enough because my friend gives a private lessons to the owner's kids and so he closed both of his eyes, though I have to say we have not done anything apart from gentle and smooth ride-around;))
Also my stomach has already improved and getting fully adapted to the local goodies. I still do not dare to drink tapped water but I am sure that I would not have a problem with it soon, just am giving it a time.
Food here is very tasty and even cheaper than that. Yesterday me and my new friend went to eat in kind of local fast-food, if I can call it like that only because people here usually eat a bit faster than elsewhere and it is cheaper. So for two people, two big portions of rice each, two bowls of vegetable stew each, a chilli omelet each and some other extras + water I paid 110 Taka, which is about 1 EUR/GBP. And we ended up very full. I went to restaurant too, we almost could not walk away because of full bellies - bill for both of us including 50 Dhaka tip - 400 Taka.
Everything here is very cheap, once I stayed in a hotel, little room, my own bathroom plus standards like TV and mosquito net, huge cockroach always priceless, and sometimes it is hard imagine room without a big fan above yourself - 200 Taka. Now I am staying with a family for 300 Dhaka/night, where I feel much more home than in the hotel. CouchSurfing is possible but very limited, as there is not many people registered and hard to find a host.
Today me and my new Bangla friend have rented a bicycles and rode around the local tea gardens, jungles, pineapple plantages, always being warmly greeted by local people, who many times do not close their mouths of all that amazement when they see me. Wow and all these fresh tropical fruits - most I have tried before, but it is nothing like this, fully ripen mangos, pineapples, bananas, coconuts, lime, I wish I could bring you a little bit of that great taste, or I rather say, you have to come and try... So yes, we rode our cycles in this area called Lawachara National Park, with many beautiful sights and villagers. We have also visited local school where I attempted to give a lesson from arithmetics, I do not think I could be a good teacher, rather a good clown to amuse kids?)
Swimming in the lake full of water-lilies... Drinking a five-color tea was another step in exploring the ways of this favorite activity of mine, milky tea here is very popular, while instead of fresh milk they put thickened and sweetened milk concentrate(I forgot an English abbreviation), very sweet but also tasty cha, as they call it here. Making a lemonade in the middle of lemon garden, have you got any sugar and a pinch of salt? You should definitely go for it.
Returning almost complete bicycles made us lucky enough because my friend gives a private lessons to the owner's kids and so he closed both of his eyes, though I have to say we have not done anything apart from gentle and smooth ride-around;))
Tuesday, 5 July 2011
Bangla instead of Pakistan
And so I arrived to capital of Bangladesh, Dhaka. After around 20 hours spent on planes and at the airports - starting in Tehran International to Sharjah - 9 hours wait and continuing to Dhaka, which I reached at 8 am, having to pass the officials - applying for a short tourist or long transit visa (valid for 15 days), costing me only 11USD. BTW Slovakia is not in the list of countries according to which they assign the fee.. Fortunately it did not take more than an hour and so I was free to explore another country on my journeys. First I took a taxi to my new friend Jonatan's place, who warmly welcomed me with fried egg, cup of coffee and a joint - I could have not imagined it better. We managed to talk about few interesting as well as important topics before I realised my brain was misfunctionning more often than usual and that I should get a rest a bit.
I got up in the late afternoon meeting two other strangers, Mato and Carin from Apennine, who have taken me out for closer observations of Bangla life and markets. We took a rickshaw to the bajar(market) where we bought the ingredients for a dinner very traditional in Apennine, also a reason why these people come so strong, Pasta. Rickshaws here are very colorful(will try upload some pictures soon) and Riksha-ala are many times very skinny but strong men. Dhaka is sometimes called the Rickshaw capital but as I see it is not an easy job at all. They have to face all the rest of the traffic and are targeted as the weakest/slowliest compared to motor vehicles. It is also one of the lowest paid jobs, a ride to market for 3 of us, which is maybe 2 kilometers, cost only 30 Taka - 10 Taka each. On our way back home I had a chance to become the riksha-ala myself - I think it would make a good start for me in Bangladesh, if I wanted to live here. I enjoyed driving this vehicle a lot and I am glad that the actual riksha-ala could rest a bit. It is a hard-work and even struggle sometimes...
Discovering Dhaka with my new friends was very enriching having a great opportunity gaining first few information about the local culture and habits, nevertheless the local mosquitos which are sucking me a lot. Widely used gestures are very unique and I enjoy them a lot - for example gesture for thank you is a (usually right)hand palm next to face, head tilt away from raised hand - back and sideways, maybe closing eyes for a second to give it even greater meanings. :)
Traffic here is creazier than in Iran, wohoooo! CNG (it is a tricycle with an engine power by gas(LPG=CNG, that's why nickname CNG))
drivers are complete nuts, they drive missing other vehicles by milimeters, if they manage to miss. Cars here have installed big bumpers to protect the body.
My digestive system is getting used to local foods, I hope it would not take more than few days. There much more to write, but not so much time I am willing to dedicate to it today...
I got up in the late afternoon meeting two other strangers, Mato and Carin from Apennine, who have taken me out for closer observations of Bangla life and markets. We took a rickshaw to the bajar(market) where we bought the ingredients for a dinner very traditional in Apennine, also a reason why these people come so strong, Pasta. Rickshaws here are very colorful(will try upload some pictures soon) and Riksha-ala are many times very skinny but strong men. Dhaka is sometimes called the Rickshaw capital but as I see it is not an easy job at all. They have to face all the rest of the traffic and are targeted as the weakest/slowliest compared to motor vehicles. It is also one of the lowest paid jobs, a ride to market for 3 of us, which is maybe 2 kilometers, cost only 30 Taka - 10 Taka each. On our way back home I had a chance to become the riksha-ala myself - I think it would make a good start for me in Bangladesh, if I wanted to live here. I enjoyed driving this vehicle a lot and I am glad that the actual riksha-ala could rest a bit. It is a hard-work and even struggle sometimes...
Discovering Dhaka with my new friends was very enriching having a great opportunity gaining first few information about the local culture and habits, nevertheless the local mosquitos which are sucking me a lot. Widely used gestures are very unique and I enjoy them a lot - for example gesture for thank you is a (usually right)hand palm next to face, head tilt away from raised hand - back and sideways, maybe closing eyes for a second to give it even greater meanings. :)
Traffic here is creazier than in Iran, wohoooo! CNG (it is a tricycle with an engine power by gas(LPG=CNG, that's why nickname CNG))
My digestive system is getting used to local foods, I hope it would not take more than few days. There much more to write, but not so much time I am willing to dedicate to it today...
Sunday, 3 July 2011
Farewell Iran + few tips as asked - !to be updated!
Note: it seems impossible to get tapped water, they say it is not drinkable, and that the only options is to buy a bottle(bloody plastic). But there is always a way if there is a will, and when i was asking from the staff entrance to the kitchen for a glass, they gave me one with no charge.
So I have finally left Iran. I feel that Iranian experience is having a strong impact on me. Iranians they love tourists, I think because they do not have many opportunities to travel abroad and also there is not so many of us there, nevertheless to improve their English. There was never a single moment when I would struggle to get a help from someone. Iranians tend to honor strangers a lot, being polite, hospitable and helpful is the way they usually do it although we must not forget they would do it their way. Nevermind some youngsters/teenagers going bit mental(if I look back on my teenage times I can not say a word;). In those 29 nights spent in the country I only used my tent once and only because I wanted to stay near the Kaspian beach. All the rest I was sheltered by CSers and few times just by random people who I met in the street or got a ride with while hitchhiking, many invitations I could not accept.
I think that Iran is the most developed country in among the countries of Middles East and if some things were 'managed' and run differently I believe it would be at the level of any average European country. Bur unfortunately the 'management'...
People here are generally happy looking people, but I was also told that many of them are depressed inside and now I can understand why. There is many restrictions made by 'managers of Iran' on what can and cannot one do. Few of them: forbidden gatherings of mixed groups(boys and girls), web filtering, forbidden to meet or host foreigners (contradiction - how can this work with such people if they are so hospitable and kind, and it is part of their habit, tradition), forbidden to criticise the 'managers' - freedom of speech does not exist in Iran, and as the government hides behind a religion the law is adjusted to it, which is discriminating other religions and non-religious people.
People's reaction to these laws is a great dislike of those who create them, turning backs to the religion which is associated to these law-makers. There is very few people who would be supporting the managers and most of these are on the payroll - employees or 'blind' followers who get paid monthly(not much, but still...) for attending the pro-management gatherings or so.
Some tips and tricks as asked for:
VISA
The way of getting them may be different for different nationals, different places of application and different time...
Turkey - at the border - 15 euro - 30days stay - multiple entry
Iran - when getting my Iranian Visa, I was told at Iranian embassy in London I needed a reference, i.e. invitation - ideally a letter from your friend in Iran. After meeting few CSers in Iran I believe there is a chance of finding someone local who would be willing to help. I have used an agency (iranianvisa.com) which took 40 euro and few weeks to process my application, which is only first step - then I needed to apply at the actual embassy(which would cost around 70/100euro, normal or express respectively for 30 day visa - single entry(you should be able to extend once you are in Iran, I heard it is possible up to 3 months)). I would not use this agency again.
On the other hand my friend from Slovakia only sent his application to Embsassy in Vienna, and after 2 weeks he was told all paperwork was ready for him to collect Visa without any invitation required.
Also I hear that it is fearly easy to get Iranian Visa in Turkey, Trabzon and that some people managed to get them within few days or even hours.
Pakistan - there is a rule to obtain this visa in a country of your residence. Then it took me 2 weeks to have them in my passport (the only negative was that i needed to leave my passport at the embassy during this waiting period). Price - 40 euro for 90 days in Pakistan - single entry.
Bangladesh - at the airport in Dhaka - they could not find Slovakia in their list of the countries - after me showing not having many dollars left in cash - made up fee 11 USD - 15 days transit visa.
MEDICINE & VACCINATION
I have been vaccinated against hepA and B, typhoid and cholera all the rest should be fine, subject to check with your GP. I visited mine and there is a nurse specialist in this sphere, was nice talking to her, got an advice.
I was prescribed doxycycline(malaria prevention) and I have it here with me, but I do not think that it is a to healthy to take it when staying in risk areas for longer time. I decided not to pre-treat as I would have to be taking it for months. I am going to buy some medicine which I could take when suspicious of being sick to give me more time seeking for medical assistance, where in this areas I was told it is not as big deal.
EQUIPMENT
My rucksack is approximately 18kg light, with tent - 1kg of weight, just an emergency, sleepingbag - warm, some clothes(I think i took too many warm clothing), headlamp, Swiss knife, compass, map, I do not have any water purifier nor filter, it was not needed till this point, sun protection(cream, glasses, scarf)...
I can dress up waterproof from top to the bottom, But in such a humidity - it is a rain season in Bangladesh/India - you will be wet/damp most of the time anyway. I do not a have a mosquito net, i will need to deal with this issue in very near future as my blood seem to be of a good taste to this little suckers.
So I have finally left Iran. I feel that Iranian experience is having a strong impact on me. Iranians they love tourists, I think because they do not have many opportunities to travel abroad and also there is not so many of us there, nevertheless to improve their English. There was never a single moment when I would struggle to get a help from someone. Iranians tend to honor strangers a lot, being polite, hospitable and helpful is the way they usually do it although we must not forget they would do it their way. Nevermind some youngsters/teenagers going bit mental(if I look back on my teenage times I can not say a word;). In those 29 nights spent in the country I only used my tent once and only because I wanted to stay near the Kaspian beach. All the rest I was sheltered by CSers and few times just by random people who I met in the street or got a ride with while hitchhiking, many invitations I could not accept.
I think that Iran is the most developed country in among the countries of Middles East and if some things were 'managed' and run differently I believe it would be at the level of any average European country. Bur unfortunately the 'management'...
People here are generally happy looking people, but I was also told that many of them are depressed inside and now I can understand why. There is many restrictions made by 'managers of Iran' on what can and cannot one do. Few of them: forbidden gatherings of mixed groups(boys and girls), web filtering, forbidden to meet or host foreigners (contradiction - how can this work with such people if they are so hospitable and kind, and it is part of their habit, tradition), forbidden to criticise the 'managers' - freedom of speech does not exist in Iran, and as the government hides behind a religion the law is adjusted to it, which is discriminating other religions and non-religious people.
People's reaction to these laws is a great dislike of those who create them, turning backs to the religion which is associated to these law-makers. There is very few people who would be supporting the managers and most of these are on the payroll - employees or 'blind' followers who get paid monthly(not much, but still...) for attending the pro-management gatherings or so.
Some tips and tricks as asked for:
VISA
The way of getting them may be different for different nationals, different places of application and different time...
Turkey - at the border - 15 euro - 30days stay - multiple entry
Iran - when getting my Iranian Visa, I was told at Iranian embassy in London I needed a reference, i.e. invitation - ideally a letter from your friend in Iran. After meeting few CSers in Iran I believe there is a chance of finding someone local who would be willing to help. I have used an agency (iranianvisa.com) which took 40 euro and few weeks to process my application, which is only first step - then I needed to apply at the actual embassy(which would cost around 70/100euro, normal or express respectively for 30 day visa - single entry(you should be able to extend once you are in Iran, I heard it is possible up to 3 months)). I would not use this agency again.
On the other hand my friend from Slovakia only sent his application to Embsassy in Vienna, and after 2 weeks he was told all paperwork was ready for him to collect Visa without any invitation required.
Also I hear that it is fearly easy to get Iranian Visa in Turkey, Trabzon and that some people managed to get them within few days or even hours.
Pakistan - there is a rule to obtain this visa in a country of your residence. Then it took me 2 weeks to have them in my passport (the only negative was that i needed to leave my passport at the embassy during this waiting period). Price - 40 euro for 90 days in Pakistan - single entry.
Bangladesh - at the airport in Dhaka - they could not find Slovakia in their list of the countries - after me showing not having many dollars left in cash - made up fee 11 USD - 15 days transit visa.
MEDICINE & VACCINATION
I have been vaccinated against hepA and B, typhoid and cholera all the rest should be fine, subject to check with your GP. I visited mine and there is a nurse specialist in this sphere, was nice talking to her, got an advice.
I was prescribed doxycycline(malaria prevention) and I have it here with me, but I do not think that it is a to healthy to take it when staying in risk areas for longer time. I decided not to pre-treat as I would have to be taking it for months. I am going to buy some medicine which I could take when suspicious of being sick to give me more time seeking for medical assistance, where in this areas I was told it is not as big deal.
EQUIPMENT
My rucksack is approximately 18kg light, with tent - 1kg of weight, just an emergency, sleepingbag - warm, some clothes(I think i took too many warm clothing), headlamp, Swiss knife, compass, map, I do not have any water purifier nor filter, it was not needed till this point, sun protection(cream, glasses, scarf)...
I can dress up waterproof from top to the bottom, But in such a humidity - it is a rain season in Bangladesh/India - you will be wet/damp most of the time anyway. I do not a have a mosquito net, i will need to deal with this issue in very near future as my blood seem to be of a good taste to this little suckers.
Thursday, 23 June 2011
else, elsewhere, elsewise...
Esfahan used to be a capital of Persia around four hundred years ago, it has got beautiful bridges across the ghost river, or river which has got no water. It is dry this season because of lesser rainfall as well as because of its use in the other regions where it is more important, mainly for agriculture. Some say that the most beautiful mosque in the world is here, well I have not seen all of them but this one really is an outstanding piece... Also very nice bazaar around the main square Naghsh-e Jahan which is crowdy but pretty, blabla...
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Now I am going to introduce the Iranian cuisine. I would start with desserts, where my favorite is havij bastani - a carrot juice with vanilla and saffron ice cream, or alternative with melon juice - this is quick energy gainer and great refreshment during hot summer-days. Another very interesting frozen goodie is faludeh - frozen starch noodles with rosewater. These are available widely in little shops or kiosks especially in this warmest season.
Fruits and vegetables are also available in every bigger street or at the local bazaar(market). Mostly seasonal fruits are on the table, these days it is mainly a variety of melons, plums (also green) and cherries, but you can also find mango - very tasty or apples which are a bit more expensive.
Sometimes I am just buying one cucumber or other but so far I have never had to pay for it like this because of too small amount and generosity towards tourists(i know it is a bit cheeky but what can I do?)... There are no supermarkets here like in western countries, but there is plenty of small shops were you can get the basic foods. Then you have butchers sometimes combined with a kebab place, so you eat being surrounded by dead animals. At least you can see what you are munching on. Bakeries you also can find almost everywhere and so I am eating fresh bread all the time. Thee is few kinds of bread here, some thin called lavash, or thicker breads barbari or sangak. The thicker one costs about 30 cents, I always buy one when hungry passing a bakery, sometimes it is so hot that I have to throw it from hand to hand.
Main meals - of course kebab you can get everywhere - but I think Turkish is better. From the north-west towards south-east it may vary a bit. As for example the Tabriz area is more of a Turkish or Azerbaijani influence. I really enjoyed the yogurt soup - yogurtly aash - with lots of herbs (mainly dill and mint) which I ate with lavash bread in which there was mix of egg and potato, again with herbs and black pepper. Many dishes are served with rice as that is one of the dominants in local agriculture. One of them is ghotmeh sabzi, which is a 'green' stew, consisting of fried mixed herbs such as mint, parsley, maybe coriander, leek or spinach but this may vary from region to region, this is mixed with kidney beans and lamb or veal meet. This is sometimes told to be an Iranian national dish. Most of the foods are served with yogurt, yogurt is everywhere. Sometimes they mix all kinds of herbs with it plus a little bit of garlic = a finger-licker. Also I have to mention the sort of spaghetti/noodles with vegetables or even meat, and the crispy noodle part on top, very nice but the I do not remember nor I can find it. Very interesting ingredient for me here is a walnut but there is many good things about Iranian kitchen. I am also very happy that to some people I have met I could show a bit of the slovak-rado-style cooking, so they could discover a bit of different or rather freestyle cooking.
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In Esfahan we have also visited a carpet shop which you could see in the picture section. I do not know about the other shops because this the only one I have spent more time within but it was very welcoming and the salesman was very happy to talk about anything I have asked of course while drinking a tea what is a must. So they sell these famous Persian flying carpets on which we were told we could get from here to Bratislava in approximately 12 hours. Just need to sit on it with closed eyes and enjoy the ride. Who knows what you need to smoke before going, but I am sure you could fly high. Carpets themselves are indeed very nice, they had some from pure silk (prices up to 3000USD for less than 2sqaure meters of rug), some from sheep wool or mixed(if I got it right/left). To make such a carpet take lots of time, sometimes even several months or years, I am not surprised by the price of it. I think they are all made by hand, usually this hand belongs to nomadic woman, who then sells them to these shopkeepers. Very interesting experience, just visiting a shop we made new friend who even though we did not buy anything was welcoming us next day when passing by and made us another cuppa.
During the visit of Esfahan me and Misko went to nearby small city where we were off to meet local couple and their 8 year old son. It always is very warm and friendly and these people honor you like you were a king. We could exchange the opinions on cultures and living-patterns. Next day we visited the master of calligraphy, who was also a teacher of our host. He wrote a nice Hafez's poem for both of us. Then we were taken to the old(400years) castle or fortress and we had very unexpected tour after asking a worker who we saw outside making a mud ready for reconstructing. The civil engineer (every second Iranian I meet is an engineer:) responsible for the site has offered a tour around and so we had a perfect guide + our host who made a translator. So we saw a place which you would not find on lonelyplanet.com. In the evening I cooked my already famous chicken/vegetable soup, while listening to our friend playing santoor. I have tried to play it too and I have enjoyed it a lot. It sounds heavenly and it is very relaxing.
First time in Esfahan I have taken a part in partying. Just few people behind the closed door, few drops of vinecko and palenocka mixed together made us all very marry and willing to dance, we could amuse each other with different techniques, Iran - Slovak dance-floor was shaking at its base.
From Esfahan to Shiraz, from Shiraz to Persepolis, ancient gardens and ancient city of kings. Very old and very hot it is these days, it is very exhausting to be out in a day time, at least I can write a bit more to this blog, share a little with you.
And today I have prepared a lunch, creamy soup with green beans, potatoes, dill and yogurt ala myself plus 'french potato' as second course. :P
-----------------
Now I am going to introduce the Iranian cuisine. I would start with desserts, where my favorite is havij bastani - a carrot juice with vanilla and saffron ice cream, or alternative with melon juice - this is quick energy gainer and great refreshment during hot summer-days. Another very interesting frozen goodie is faludeh - frozen starch noodles with rosewater. These are available widely in little shops or kiosks especially in this warmest season.
Fruits and vegetables are also available in every bigger street or at the local bazaar(market). Mostly seasonal fruits are on the table, these days it is mainly a variety of melons, plums (also green) and cherries, but you can also find mango - very tasty or apples which are a bit more expensive.
Sometimes I am just buying one cucumber or other but so far I have never had to pay for it like this because of too small amount and generosity towards tourists(i know it is a bit cheeky but what can I do?)... There are no supermarkets here like in western countries, but there is plenty of small shops were you can get the basic foods. Then you have butchers sometimes combined with a kebab place, so you eat being surrounded by dead animals. At least you can see what you are munching on. Bakeries you also can find almost everywhere and so I am eating fresh bread all the time. Thee is few kinds of bread here, some thin called lavash, or thicker breads barbari or sangak. The thicker one costs about 30 cents, I always buy one when hungry passing a bakery, sometimes it is so hot that I have to throw it from hand to hand.
Main meals - of course kebab you can get everywhere - but I think Turkish is better. From the north-west towards south-east it may vary a bit. As for example the Tabriz area is more of a Turkish or Azerbaijani influence. I really enjoyed the yogurt soup - yogurtly aash - with lots of herbs (mainly dill and mint) which I ate with lavash bread in which there was mix of egg and potato, again with herbs and black pepper. Many dishes are served with rice as that is one of the dominants in local agriculture. One of them is ghotmeh sabzi, which is a 'green' stew, consisting of fried mixed herbs such as mint, parsley, maybe coriander, leek or spinach but this may vary from region to region, this is mixed with kidney beans and lamb or veal meet. This is sometimes told to be an Iranian national dish. Most of the foods are served with yogurt, yogurt is everywhere. Sometimes they mix all kinds of herbs with it plus a little bit of garlic = a finger-licker. Also I have to mention the sort of spaghetti/noodles with vegetables or even meat, and the crispy noodle part on top, very nice but the I do not remember nor I can find it. Very interesting ingredient for me here is a walnut but there is many good things about Iranian kitchen. I am also very happy that to some people I have met I could show a bit of the slovak-rado-style cooking, so they could discover a bit of different or rather freestyle cooking.
-----------------
In Esfahan we have also visited a carpet shop which you could see in the picture section. I do not know about the other shops because this the only one I have spent more time within but it was very welcoming and the salesman was very happy to talk about anything I have asked of course while drinking a tea what is a must. So they sell these famous Persian flying carpets on which we were told we could get from here to Bratislava in approximately 12 hours. Just need to sit on it with closed eyes and enjoy the ride. Who knows what you need to smoke before going, but I am sure you could fly high. Carpets themselves are indeed very nice, they had some from pure silk (prices up to 3000USD for less than 2sqaure meters of rug), some from sheep wool or mixed(if I got it right/left). To make such a carpet take lots of time, sometimes even several months or years, I am not surprised by the price of it. I think they are all made by hand, usually this hand belongs to nomadic woman, who then sells them to these shopkeepers. Very interesting experience, just visiting a shop we made new friend who even though we did not buy anything was welcoming us next day when passing by and made us another cuppa.
During the visit of Esfahan me and Misko went to nearby small city where we were off to meet local couple and their 8 year old son. It always is very warm and friendly and these people honor you like you were a king. We could exchange the opinions on cultures and living-patterns. Next day we visited the master of calligraphy, who was also a teacher of our host. He wrote a nice Hafez's poem for both of us. Then we were taken to the old(400years) castle or fortress and we had very unexpected tour after asking a worker who we saw outside making a mud ready for reconstructing. The civil engineer (every second Iranian I meet is an engineer:) responsible for the site has offered a tour around and so we had a perfect guide + our host who made a translator. So we saw a place which you would not find on lonelyplanet.com. In the evening I cooked my already famous chicken/vegetable soup, while listening to our friend playing santoor. I have tried to play it too and I have enjoyed it a lot. It sounds heavenly and it is very relaxing.
First time in Esfahan I have taken a part in partying. Just few people behind the closed door, few drops of vinecko and palenocka mixed together made us all very marry and willing to dance, we could amuse each other with different techniques, Iran - Slovak dance-floor was shaking at its base.
From Esfahan to Shiraz, from Shiraz to Persepolis, ancient gardens and ancient city of kings. Very old and very hot it is these days, it is very exhausting to be out in a day time, at least I can write a bit more to this blog, share a little with you.
And today I have prepared a lunch, creamy soup with green beans, potatoes, dill and yogurt ala myself plus 'french potato' as second course. :P
Tuesday, 21 June 2011
I love Iran and its people
Area of north Iran - south coast of Caspian Sea - is one endless town around the main road, between Sea and jungle. People here are quiet crazy or at least those I have met, that suits me well. And so I stayed for 3 nights. Many thanks to my other Iranian mother Ann for whom I have become a son who was lucky trying to get an answer to several no easy questions. It is always great feeling to meet such real people who are not afraid to talk about anything...
From Tonekabon I started to move quiet late(after very healthy breakfast - Iranian usual - bread with cheese and vegetables, of course cup of black tea must not be missed either, leaving at around 11am) like it already was a habit, hmm, yes I am not in a rush, it is still 'a holiday'. Everything seem to be so easy and ready for me that I have to make it at least little bit more difficult. Easy = boring.
Caught few cars to Chalus, few cars including a nice taxi driver who gave a free ride. From this town I was picked up by 3 boys returning to Tehran, glad to help them getting away with no penalty (when overtaking where it was forbidden to) - policeman wanted to show to me=tourist how considerate they were or maybe he just needed little help pushing their vehicle forwards (as it would not start otherwise) which he would not get if we were penalised.
Tehran is a mass and so far biggest city I have entered, can not wait to visit Delhi. And even though it took me only under 2 hours to leave city of course thanks to massive support by curious Iranians. It is very useful to look like foreigner here, believe me. And I seem to have a special talent to act even stranger they would have ever expected. You guess correctly if you think that I enjoy it a lot.
Although after some time I made my audience understand that I usually do not take bus or taxi, one who spoken English fluently convinced me to pay 1500 Tuman - little more than a 1 USD - (all I had in this currency anyway) for a bus to city called Qum. Here I arrived around 8pm and because of my disorientation it took me almost 2 hours to get back on the correct road. Again lucky enough after one hour of standing behind highway tolls, elder gentleman approached me and asked whether I needed assistance and because I did not mind the company of his family in the car I had a direct ride to Esfahan. So happy that I managed to travel almost 700km in 15 hours for little more than 1 dollar, food and entertainment included, I also had a place to stay over short night, provided by this family who felt honored when I accepted their invitation.
Esfahan is beautiful city with the most beautiful mosque in the world - so they say - but it is indeed (from those two I have seen so far;). Here I meet many friendly local people and also Misko, whom I made friend earlier in Tabriz. I presented my famous vegetable soup which has been success I believe, I had to cook it twice.
People of Esfahan and events along my and Misko's stay brought us at least one step closer to understanding how the life is for (young) people in Iran. Once experienced in real it cleared up our blurred ideas after all those stories we heard or read.
I am now very tired and can not see the keybosdf anymrrreeeee ndjskadnffffff........
From Tonekabon I started to move quiet late(after very healthy breakfast - Iranian usual - bread with cheese and vegetables, of course cup of black tea must not be missed either, leaving at around 11am) like it already was a habit, hmm, yes I am not in a rush, it is still 'a holiday'. Everything seem to be so easy and ready for me that I have to make it at least little bit more difficult. Easy = boring.
Caught few cars to Chalus, few cars including a nice taxi driver who gave a free ride. From this town I was picked up by 3 boys returning to Tehran, glad to help them getting away with no penalty (when overtaking where it was forbidden to) - policeman wanted to show to me=tourist how considerate they were or maybe he just needed little help pushing their vehicle forwards (as it would not start otherwise) which he would not get if we were penalised.
Tehran is a mass and so far biggest city I have entered, can not wait to visit Delhi. And even though it took me only under 2 hours to leave city of course thanks to massive support by curious Iranians. It is very useful to look like foreigner here, believe me. And I seem to have a special talent to act even stranger they would have ever expected. You guess correctly if you think that I enjoy it a lot.
Although after some time I made my audience understand that I usually do not take bus or taxi, one who spoken English fluently convinced me to pay 1500 Tuman - little more than a 1 USD - (all I had in this currency anyway) for a bus to city called Qum. Here I arrived around 8pm and because of my disorientation it took me almost 2 hours to get back on the correct road. Again lucky enough after one hour of standing behind highway tolls, elder gentleman approached me and asked whether I needed assistance and because I did not mind the company of his family in the car I had a direct ride to Esfahan. So happy that I managed to travel almost 700km in 15 hours for little more than 1 dollar, food and entertainment included, I also had a place to stay over short night, provided by this family who felt honored when I accepted their invitation.
Esfahan is beautiful city with the most beautiful mosque in the world - so they say - but it is indeed (from those two I have seen so far;). Here I meet many friendly local people and also Misko, whom I made friend earlier in Tabriz. I presented my famous vegetable soup which has been success I believe, I had to cook it twice.
People of Esfahan and events along my and Misko's stay brought us at least one step closer to understanding how the life is for (young) people in Iran. Once experienced in real it cleared up our blurred ideas after all those stories we heard or read.
I am now very tired and can not see the keybosdf anymrrreeeee ndjskadnffffff........
Wednesday, 15 June 2011
Chubar, Rasht and now Tonekabon...
Chubar is a little town near Astara. People here, as it is quit small place, tend to be very friendly and respectful but I am not saying that elsewhere they are not. Here I was brought by guy called mr Y who I have found on CS, after making a phone call he came to pick me up to Astara with mr A accompanied with mr Ash. These other 2 people are Y's good friends and also English students. Yes, mr Y is a local private English teacher (but also student at university) and speaks this language very well. I was taken to mr A place where I was told to stay for first night. Although I did not plan to stay any longer it took me 4 days to leave this place. They made me feel very comfortable, ensuring I would not be bored for a second. Mr A is a history teacher, very calm, relaxed gentleman who looks after his family well. He lives with his wife and 3 sons. Taking lessons of English and hosting people from all around the world he tries to improve his language skills. Great personality, great family... Hospitality, big thing, breakfast ready as soon as I opened my eyes, lunch before I had chance get hungry after breakfast and so on... I think you do not get such service when staying in most expensive hotels, though I have never stayed in one :)... And its honesty is extra! During my stay I was taken to all nice places around, visiting A's kiwi farm, rice fields, swimming in the largest lake in the world called دریای خزر, trying to teach this pleasurable activity to A's oldest son, who at his 12 years speaks very good English even better than his father. I think I am a poor teacher, I do not have much patience, but I can always try. We also have been running through the sandy beaches, where we do not need any shoes and can roar freely barefooted. Mr Y and mr Ash have taken me for hiking in surrounding mountains, which are not high but still very picturesque. It is the local jungle full rice fields, forests, bee hives and its keepers... And very humid. I can also feel I am getting closer to India because cows they hang around almost everywhere they can eat grass, beach, jungle, grassy alley between roads... Opposite Y's home wedding preparations took a place and so he did not miss the opportunity to show me the local traditions. First part of wedding here is like a party for groom, doors wide open for anyone to come, dance and wish him the best of luck. People here can become quiet wild and have strong passion for dancing. The guests give money to groom's family member, first tapping them on his forehead and then they dance with these money throwing them all around... Me as the only foreigner, was invited to the 'dance-carpets' by the elder of wedding(he used to be an English literature teacher, so his announcement was in English too) who by pure coincidence was a member of Y's family and he asked me to dance with him. Of course there was no chance to refuse this invitation as there was around 300 guests impatiently looking at me and waiting to experience some liquid dancing performance. I have tried my best and left after few songs with sweat on my face and massive ovations;))... Next day we saw the bride being brought to her husband home, where she shall live forever. Very nice moments waited for me in Chubar...
Next I moved to Rasht, hitchhiking, 'unfortunately' at some point unable to explain what I was doing I was paid for the bus which took me to the city. Here before meeting my next host I met few crazy old and divorced geezers, who spoke English and said lots of funny things, many of which I would not expect out their mouths. I was amused. Later in the day I reached mrs H's home where I was allowed to stay for next few days. First I shared her guest space with other 2 CSers from Switzerland. Next day all 4 of us went to tour near by places, Rudkhan (medieval) Castle, which is built of brick and stone. We had tasty lunch just next to the spring, beneath the castle. The price for everything we buy was always being beaten down by our host and negotiator mrs H. Then we shared taxi to Masouleh which is a beautiful village built in the steep hill. Its little sreets' pavement is a roof of another houses bellow. Very calm and atmospheric place where we sat in a cafe, drank cay, ate cookies and smoked shisha enjoying the mists falling down from the hilltops.
Mrs H is a very active, happy and polite human, who would challenge your memory with big amount of information. She loves traveling and is very open to new adventures. Now I can say that I have found my Iranian mother too. She looked after me like my own. At some point I dared to challenge her husband in chess but I was far from being a decent competitor. He is a master of this game and also table tennis. And he loves fishing. Their sons are around my age and are all very smart and open. And I think they all enjoyed my cabbage dish - 'halusky s kapustou'. In Rasht I also met few more people including mrs M and her Scottish friend Raul, who took to their favorite cafe place, full of artistic artifacts and relaxed tunes. Also other guy Yan who took me to the old market place...
Next I made my way to Tonekabon, where mrs H's friend Ann stays and so I have got shelter for next few days. On my way here I met this crazy truck driver, who fed me well with kebab and even invited me to his place which is further east near Caspian. He would also offer me money as I tried to explain to him that my budget is little and why I hitchhike.
Endless generosity and hospitality...
Next I moved to Rasht, hitchhiking, 'unfortunately' at some point unable to explain what I was doing I was paid for the bus which took me to the city. Here before meeting my next host I met few crazy old and divorced geezers, who spoke English and said lots of funny things, many of which I would not expect out their mouths. I was amused. Later in the day I reached mrs H's home where I was allowed to stay for next few days. First I shared her guest space with other 2 CSers from Switzerland. Next day all 4 of us went to tour near by places, Rudkhan (medieval) Castle, which is built of brick and stone. We had tasty lunch just next to the spring, beneath the castle. The price for everything we buy was always being beaten down by our host and negotiator mrs H. Then we shared taxi to Masouleh which is a beautiful village built in the steep hill. Its little sreets' pavement is a roof of another houses bellow. Very calm and atmospheric place where we sat in a cafe, drank cay, ate cookies and smoked shisha enjoying the mists falling down from the hilltops.
Mrs H is a very active, happy and polite human, who would challenge your memory with big amount of information. She loves traveling and is very open to new adventures. Now I can say that I have found my Iranian mother too. She looked after me like my own. At some point I dared to challenge her husband in chess but I was far from being a decent competitor. He is a master of this game and also table tennis. And he loves fishing. Their sons are around my age and are all very smart and open. And I think they all enjoyed my cabbage dish - 'halusky s kapustou'. In Rasht I also met few more people including mrs M and her Scottish friend Raul, who took to their favorite cafe place, full of artistic artifacts and relaxed tunes. Also other guy Yan who took me to the old market place...
Next I made my way to Tonekabon, where mrs H's friend Ann stays and so I have got shelter for next few days. On my way here I met this crazy truck driver, who fed me well with kebab and even invited me to his place which is further east near Caspian. He would also offer me money as I tried to explain to him that my budget is little and why I hitchhike.
Endless generosity and hospitality...
Monday, 13 June 2011
few informations...
Well I hope you all are at least as fine as I am. There is few things I want to mention:
-my english number is off, it does not seem to work here, I have tried to send message or call several times with no success. If you wish to contact me, please send an email (or now I am using an Iranian sim-card, number is in previous post)
-one more thanks to Radko G. who has given his old phone because my old one has just died
-after recent events in Pakistan I have been advised (by someone traveling in Pakistan at the moment) to avoid the country. It does not seem to be safe for not even for tourist but for local people either these days. It is unfortunate but I do see it as good decision. So I just searching for cheapest possible flight to India from Iran
- - - I have just booked my flight, instead of Pakistan I will visit Bangladesh, 30th I flying from Tehran to its capital city Dhaka... It is going to be interesting.
-I have created new album for Asia
-now I am staying in Rasht, will write more but now I am going to cook a lunch (halusky s kapustou;)
CAU!
-my english number is off, it does not seem to work here, I have tried to send message or call several times with no success. If you wish to contact me, please send an email (or now I am using an Iranian sim-card, number is in previous post)
-one more thanks to Radko G. who has given his old phone because my old one has just died
-after recent events in Pakistan I have been advised (by someone traveling in Pakistan at the moment) to avoid the country. It does not seem to be safe for not even for tourist but for local people either these days. It is unfortunate but I do see it as good decision. So I just searching for cheapest possible flight to India from Iran
- - - I have just booked my flight, instead of Pakistan I will visit Bangladesh, 30th I flying from Tehran to its capital city Dhaka... It is going to be interesting.
-I have created new album for Asia
-now I am staying in Rasht, will write more but now I am going to cook a lunch (halusky s kapustou;)
CAU!
Wednesday, 8 June 2011
Savalan - hitchhiking in Iran - Astara
There is so much happening these days that it is almost impossible to note everything down. Next I want to tell about the day when me, Miso and Amir decided to go hiking. Hiking I love a lot but this was something very new for me. We went to the 3rd highest mountain in Iran Savalan which is about 4800m high. So far the highest point I have reached is slightly over 2000 meters back in Slovakia.
So we left Tabriz in the noon taking shared taxies and other types of the cheapest transportation towards the village Shabel, just beneath the hill. It was not easy to get here for cheap money, taxi drivers tend to double the prices when they see tourists even though there is a local guy with us. We started to walk from the big parking in the village towards the camp (3500m high) which we were told was almost an hour by off road vehicle or 4 hours walking. It was already late, around half past six or even seven o’clock, I cannot remember exactly. After first few meters I decided to go off the road and try to go ‘alternative’ free way (it would not be me if I did not). Amir wanted to go with me but Miso did not feel like going a bit steeper. Here our ways separated and soon after it started to rain – snow. It was the first welcome said by Savalan. Fortunately this not so nice weather did not take too long to clear and we could happily hike further without a need of our waterproof equipment (here I must note that Amir is a brave guy, not taking too much care about these aspects of hiking). As we went up further, I could not resist going my own tempo and so I left Amir behind, from time to time whistling loud to make sure he is still behind. At some point, or 2½ hours later I could see the camp in distance and also Amir behind so I just went back to the road (it was also slowly getting dark). I reached the camp first, of course, few minutes after sunset. Miso arrived approximately 20 minutes after me, but surprisingly we were missing one more member, Amir. In the meantime the weather has changed again, into a storm with rain, snow and wind as a bonus. We tried to call Amir with no success, the reception in this area was very poor. After waiting over an hour we with hope that he would be in some other part of camp area, decided to hide in our sleeping bags and get a little rest before an early morning ascend. Maybe 30 minutes later, silence of the night was suddenly disturbed by voice calling my name, which I could recognise straight away. I ran outside and saw Amir covered with his sleeping bag walking towards the camp. He was all wet and freezing (it was I think around -2 degree Celsius). Brave Amir was hiking to the last minute away from the road and had no torch to find his way to camp after sunset and during the snow/rain although he was only few hundreds meters away.
We helped him out of the wet clothes, borrowed him some of our drier stuff and covered in whatever we assumed would keep the guy warm. It seemed to help and so we could rest. At 5am we got up, going to look for Amir’s rucksack as he left it somewhere under the rock, where he was hiding from the bad weather. In this height there was still fair amount of snow and my thirst told me to cross one of these snowy islands to drink fresh mountain water. What I could have predicted was that my feet might get under the snow into the little river beneath… Few seconds later and water was pouring into my boots. And here is where my attempt was over. Gladly Miso was all ready as the only well prepared hiker, and 4 hours later reached the holy lake at the top of this volcano. We are all happy and share this fortune with him or rather he shares it with us?)
…
Hitchhiking in Iran is possible. First elder man has taken out of the Tabriz city, stopping and asking traffic policeman to send me safely for the bus. I managed to explain to this polite English-speaking police guy that I had no money to spend on transportation and wanted to take a ride with someone who went my direction for free. In few seconds he stopped the car going my way and two young guys agreed to take me. All fine until we reached their destination and when they asked for money. Well it is hard to explain, when we do not speak the same language. One of these gentlemen tryed to speak to nearby standing policeman, but after few minutes policeman left and so have I. Next ride was a happy one. During my German language practice I was also fed by the driver’s mother-co-pilot. Arriving to Ardebil, still about 70km from Astara – my Kaspian Sea destination, I have met these crazy geezers who made me roller-skate and listen to forbidden metal music. I suffered a lot because they also fed me with some tasty Iranian pizza and gave an evil hand band, which I could not take of my hand until this very moment. Then they drove me to Astara although they were not planning to leave Ardebil. Bad!!!
After a romantic but evil night in my tent at free beach camp, I got up into rainy morning. Fresh bread and cheese becoming my breakfast for 1 dollar, I spent some time looking for a shop with sim cards, so I could get an Iranian number(0(098)9376429971). At some point I met this guy called Payam who is Iranian kick-box champion with the sweetest voice and good guitar skill. With his help I bought a female scarf in my favorite green color. After this success he invited me to his home for lunch. Now I say that I thought I would be hungry more often than ‘not hungry’ but reality is far from it. I think people here feel sorry when they look at me and always try to feed me like a little piggy. Well I am pink and have funny tails… Before meal was ready Payam has entertained me with his music performance. Thumbs up though it is not really my cup of tea. Later before foody-experience we checked their colorful and fruity garden which tasted sweet and smelled like honey.
For lunch his mother cooked delicious fish which was served with local rice and some other goodies, I could not stop eating until all plates were empty. This I needed to burn and so we went to the beach, meeting some crazy fishing guys. Why crazy? You can come and see for yourself. Payam then had a great idea getting a motorbike and having a ride into a local jungles. Rice fields, bee hives, hills and GREEN, everything in this area is green and yes I must not forget, I was riding a bike after so many years and that was a cherry on the top of another great day.
I am loving this trip BIG time! Thank you all people who have fun with me.
So we left Tabriz in the noon taking shared taxies and other types of the cheapest transportation towards the village Shabel, just beneath the hill. It was not easy to get here for cheap money, taxi drivers tend to double the prices when they see tourists even though there is a local guy with us. We started to walk from the big parking in the village towards the camp (3500m high) which we were told was almost an hour by off road vehicle or 4 hours walking. It was already late, around half past six or even seven o’clock, I cannot remember exactly. After first few meters I decided to go off the road and try to go ‘alternative’ free way (it would not be me if I did not). Amir wanted to go with me but Miso did not feel like going a bit steeper. Here our ways separated and soon after it started to rain – snow. It was the first welcome said by Savalan. Fortunately this not so nice weather did not take too long to clear and we could happily hike further without a need of our waterproof equipment (here I must note that Amir is a brave guy, not taking too much care about these aspects of hiking). As we went up further, I could not resist going my own tempo and so I left Amir behind, from time to time whistling loud to make sure he is still behind. At some point, or 2½ hours later I could see the camp in distance and also Amir behind so I just went back to the road (it was also slowly getting dark). I reached the camp first, of course, few minutes after sunset. Miso arrived approximately 20 minutes after me, but surprisingly we were missing one more member, Amir. In the meantime the weather has changed again, into a storm with rain, snow and wind as a bonus. We tried to call Amir with no success, the reception in this area was very poor. After waiting over an hour we with hope that he would be in some other part of camp area, decided to hide in our sleeping bags and get a little rest before an early morning ascend. Maybe 30 minutes later, silence of the night was suddenly disturbed by voice calling my name, which I could recognise straight away. I ran outside and saw Amir covered with his sleeping bag walking towards the camp. He was all wet and freezing (it was I think around -2 degree Celsius). Brave Amir was hiking to the last minute away from the road and had no torch to find his way to camp after sunset and during the snow/rain although he was only few hundreds meters away.
We helped him out of the wet clothes, borrowed him some of our drier stuff and covered in whatever we assumed would keep the guy warm. It seemed to help and so we could rest. At 5am we got up, going to look for Amir’s rucksack as he left it somewhere under the rock, where he was hiding from the bad weather. In this height there was still fair amount of snow and my thirst told me to cross one of these snowy islands to drink fresh mountain water. What I could have predicted was that my feet might get under the snow into the little river beneath… Few seconds later and water was pouring into my boots. And here is where my attempt was over. Gladly Miso was all ready as the only well prepared hiker, and 4 hours later reached the holy lake at the top of this volcano. We are all happy and share this fortune with him or rather he shares it with us?)
…
Hitchhiking in Iran is possible. First elder man has taken out of the Tabriz city, stopping and asking traffic policeman to send me safely for the bus. I managed to explain to this polite English-speaking police guy that I had no money to spend on transportation and wanted to take a ride with someone who went my direction for free. In few seconds he stopped the car going my way and two young guys agreed to take me. All fine until we reached their destination and when they asked for money. Well it is hard to explain, when we do not speak the same language. One of these gentlemen tryed to speak to nearby standing policeman, but after few minutes policeman left and so have I. Next ride was a happy one. During my German language practice I was also fed by the driver’s mother-co-pilot. Arriving to Ardebil, still about 70km from Astara – my Kaspian Sea destination, I have met these crazy geezers who made me roller-skate and listen to forbidden metal music. I suffered a lot because they also fed me with some tasty Iranian pizza and gave an evil hand band, which I could not take of my hand until this very moment. Then they drove me to Astara although they were not planning to leave Ardebil. Bad!!!
After a romantic but evil night in my tent at free beach camp, I got up into rainy morning. Fresh bread and cheese becoming my breakfast for 1 dollar, I spent some time looking for a shop with sim cards, so I could get an Iranian number(0(098)9376429971). At some point I met this guy called Payam who is Iranian kick-box champion with the sweetest voice and good guitar skill. With his help I bought a female scarf in my favorite green color. After this success he invited me to his home for lunch. Now I say that I thought I would be hungry more often than ‘not hungry’ but reality is far from it. I think people here feel sorry when they look at me and always try to feed me like a little piggy. Well I am pink and have funny tails… Before meal was ready Payam has entertained me with his music performance. Thumbs up though it is not really my cup of tea. Later before foody-experience we checked their colorful and fruity garden which tasted sweet and smelled like honey.
For lunch his mother cooked delicious fish which was served with local rice and some other goodies, I could not stop eating until all plates were empty. This I needed to burn and so we went to the beach, meeting some crazy fishing guys. Why crazy? You can come and see for yourself. Payam then had a great idea getting a motorbike and having a ride into a local jungles. Rice fields, bee hives, hills and GREEN, everything in this area is green and yes I must not forget, I was riding a bike after so many years and that was a cherry on the top of another great day.
I am loving this trip BIG time! Thank you all people who have fun with me.
Monday, 6 June 2011
Ankara - East Turkey - Iran - Tabriz #2
...I felt really strange when visiting Babak's home, because as soon as we entered the house all women and kids went to the other room. Fortunately it eased a bit when he called his mother out and we had chance to introduce. With another friend of Babak we stayed up until late and discussed many life and culture related issues.
Next morning we went out for breakfast and had a walk around a local parks and streets, meeting many friends who would not hesitate to practise their English with a stranger. Later we also visited city and the museum of famous Iranian poet (name i cannot remember). After we spent few moments in crowdy park where many local people and crows have picnic together. Tasting local cakes and non-alcoholic fruity brew was essential to gain more energy for further explorations. The sightseeing and transportation was provided by another Babak's friend who drove us around and even offered me to sit behind his car's steering wheel which I did not feel like trying especially when seeing local trafic.
In the meantime, they dropped me at the center where I met Amir, who has saved me previous night when sending me a message with Babak's number who could host me that night. This guy Amir is so far the creaziest Iranien creature I have so far met, and I do not think I will meet many crazier if any. At this point I was trying to find a VisaCard friendly cashpoint, when I learned that Visa is not supported in Iran and therefore I can not really use my account. Fortunately I have little bit of cash and that will have to be enough for me to last my stay in Iran. I have changed few dollars for funny local money, where thay have two sorts, Rials and Tomans where 100 Tomans = 1000 Rials = approximately 1 USD. Also here we met another traveller from Slovakia Miso who was accommodated by Amir too. And so we made our way to my next host Daryosh(Amir is a guy who I have contacted via CouchSurfing, he was the only positively responding person(out of those 3 requests I managed to send;) but because he could not host at this times, he managed the couches at his friends' places, who have no problem with it). I left there my big rucksack and went with Amir and Miso towards another host for Miso(also managed by Amir the 'couch manager'). Uniting with guy called Hatef we made it to music institute, where they both (Amir and Hatef) have their qopus/komuz (Azerbaijani/Turkish traditional string instrument) teacher and listened to a local folk. Azerbaijani folk feels very strong, emotional, and most of all it gives a never-give-up attitude for people.
Being hungry we have tryed some local specialities - egg and potato wrapped in a bread with the yogurt and herbs(dill+mint) soup. Very vegetarian and tasty.
Next early morning we decided to hike to the top of local 'Red Montain', which is just above the city of Tabriz. Big crowds climbing up with us, red hills, valley chill-out, cooking ever present tea, playing qopus. Beautiful! After this we came back to Hatef place and straight have been called to the table for lunch. Again tasty local dish, I unfortunately do not recall its name. After this lunch me and Miso prepeared the snack for first Couchsurfing meeting in Tabriz - our traditional potato pancake, also called Harula:). With very curious mum of Hatef it went very quick, and so my dish was finalised by the touch of Iranian mother. It could have not been better. Little but happy gathering/picnic in park has given me another opportunity to meet more nice Iranians, who help me to understand this culture and habits. At night me and and Miso were invited by Hatef parents to a family dinner-meeting-birthday party, where we again had chance to experience something completely different from what we saw so far. Rich and specious interior all filled by posh furniture, silver cutlery, many courses to start and finish with, again very friendly and happy Iranians. Having traditional, or maybe also not so traditional fun until early morning hours has uncovered another face of Iranian culture, the culture behind the closed doors. I would never expect to find my hipster-punk-alternative-whatever being at such a family gathering.
Now again I write and there much more to write but my time in internet cafe is running out, I will bring more, also about the attempt to climb the 3rd highest hill in Iran, and also some fotos. I promise;)
Next morning we went out for breakfast and had a walk around a local parks and streets, meeting many friends who would not hesitate to practise their English with a stranger. Later we also visited city and the museum of famous Iranian poet (name i cannot remember). After we spent few moments in crowdy park where many local people and crows have picnic together. Tasting local cakes and non-alcoholic fruity brew was essential to gain more energy for further explorations. The sightseeing and transportation was provided by another Babak's friend who drove us around and even offered me to sit behind his car's steering wheel which I did not feel like trying especially when seeing local trafic.
In the meantime, they dropped me at the center where I met Amir, who has saved me previous night when sending me a message with Babak's number who could host me that night. This guy Amir is so far the creaziest Iranien creature I have so far met, and I do not think I will meet many crazier if any. At this point I was trying to find a VisaCard friendly cashpoint, when I learned that Visa is not supported in Iran and therefore I can not really use my account. Fortunately I have little bit of cash and that will have to be enough for me to last my stay in Iran. I have changed few dollars for funny local money, where thay have two sorts, Rials and Tomans where 100 Tomans = 1000 Rials = approximately 1 USD. Also here we met another traveller from Slovakia Miso who was accommodated by Amir too. And so we made our way to my next host Daryosh(Amir is a guy who I have contacted via CouchSurfing, he was the only positively responding person(out of those 3 requests I managed to send;) but because he could not host at this times, he managed the couches at his friends' places, who have no problem with it). I left there my big rucksack and went with Amir and Miso towards another host for Miso(also managed by Amir the 'couch manager'). Uniting with guy called Hatef we made it to music institute, where they both (Amir and Hatef) have their qopus/komuz (Azerbaijani/Turkish traditional string instrument) teacher and listened to a local folk. Azerbaijani folk feels very strong, emotional, and most of all it gives a never-give-up attitude for people.
Being hungry we have tryed some local specialities - egg and potato wrapped in a bread with the yogurt and herbs(dill+mint) soup. Very vegetarian and tasty.
Next early morning we decided to hike to the top of local 'Red Montain', which is just above the city of Tabriz. Big crowds climbing up with us, red hills, valley chill-out, cooking ever present tea, playing qopus. Beautiful! After this we came back to Hatef place and straight have been called to the table for lunch. Again tasty local dish, I unfortunately do not recall its name. After this lunch me and Miso prepeared the snack for first Couchsurfing meeting in Tabriz - our traditional potato pancake, also called Harula:). With very curious mum of Hatef it went very quick, and so my dish was finalised by the touch of Iranian mother. It could have not been better. Little but happy gathering/picnic in park has given me another opportunity to meet more nice Iranians, who help me to understand this culture and habits. At night me and and Miso were invited by Hatef parents to a family dinner-meeting-birthday party, where we again had chance to experience something completely different from what we saw so far. Rich and specious interior all filled by posh furniture, silver cutlery, many courses to start and finish with, again very friendly and happy Iranians. Having traditional, or maybe also not so traditional fun until early morning hours has uncovered another face of Iranian culture, the culture behind the closed doors. I would never expect to find my hipster-punk-alternative-whatever being at such a family gathering.
Now again I write and there much more to write but my time in internet cafe is running out, I will bring more, also about the attempt to climb the 3rd highest hill in Iran, and also some fotos. I promise;)
Friday, 3 June 2011
Ankara - East Turkey - Iran - Tabriz #1
Night in Ankara I have spent with saviour Mehmet from Azerbaijan, who has accepted my last minute couch request. I hope he past his final exam and is now happy celebrating and planning some nice trips. In the morning I went to the city, took few pictures, ate a hearty kebab and made my way out of the city to catch a ride. Hitch-hiking in Turkey for seems to be a peace of cake I have never waited for long time. At night I was walking through city called Sivas where I was dropped by very talkative truck driver with whom I have had interesting conversation nevermind the fact that his English was not much better than my Turkish. I Sivas I first thought spending a night would be an idea, but after failing to find a hostel a being taken to the cheapest hotel and negotiated price as low as 25 Turkish Lira (1TL=0.43EUR(I do not think the hostel would be cheaper than this)) I decided to go further and try my luck but in the end just slept a couple of hours in my little tent outside of the city and as soon as the raised I kept going farther. Beautiful nature in the east of Turkey made me want to return, perhaps once when I will have a motorbike. I am strongly recommending Turkey. The variety in nature from north to south and east to west is amazing, while the distance is bearable. Near Iranian border next morning I have not missed the opportunity to meet closer with Kurdish 'terrorist' people, who have invited me first for çay, but then made me dine with them too, which was as tasty as funny. Fresh bread with withe soft cheese, yogurt, lots of tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers finalised by collective picture.
Soon after I have been crossing the border to Iran. First city behind the border is called Bazargan, where I found an Internet cafe, sent few accommodation requests and tried to hitch a ride to Tabriz. There I knew it was not going to be easy because Iranians do not know the idea of hitch-hiking nor it is easy to explain it. So ended up on the so called mini-bus, which is a normal car, taking me to next village, where I was almost forced to take a bus. I did not want to argue and it was very hot, I decide to take this offer. In Tabriz we arrived late, and being dropped at the of this not so small city (2million people) I took a taxi, asking for the nearest internet cafe, the seemed to understand but later I have doubts when arriving to hotel. Fortunately receptionist spoken English and I managed to explain to him that I only needed internet. Using a pc in the office behind reception I found a number to Babak, who was able to host me instead of Amir who I have asked at first. Taxi driver then took me further to the destination where Babak was to pick me up(after getting his phone number, i called him and for better orientation receptionist negotiated the directions). Lots of fun started when the taxi driver started to ask for money, he asked for much more than he would ask the local person and I knew it and refused to pay whole amount, because I did not have that much in Rial. After a while I managed to gain my rucksack back and walked away from this gentleman with a smile on my face like this :), because I could already see my next host Babak. He and his friends took me to his place where I first in my life visited muslim family... to be continued, because now I am going to meet more nice people.
Soon after I have been crossing the border to Iran. First city behind the border is called Bazargan, where I found an Internet cafe, sent few accommodation requests and tried to hitch a ride to Tabriz. There I knew it was not going to be easy because Iranians do not know the idea of hitch-hiking nor it is easy to explain it. So ended up on the so called mini-bus, which is a normal car, taking me to next village, where I was almost forced to take a bus. I did not want to argue and it was very hot, I decide to take this offer. In Tabriz we arrived late, and being dropped at the of this not so small city (2million people) I took a taxi, asking for the nearest internet cafe, the seemed to understand but later I have doubts when arriving to hotel. Fortunately receptionist spoken English and I managed to explain to him that I only needed internet. Using a pc in the office behind reception I found a number to Babak, who was able to host me instead of Amir who I have asked at first. Taxi driver then took me further to the destination where Babak was to pick me up(after getting his phone number, i called him and for better orientation receptionist negotiated the directions). Lots of fun started when the taxi driver started to ask for money, he asked for much more than he would ask the local person and I knew it and refused to pay whole amount, because I did not have that much in Rial. After a while I managed to gain my rucksack back and walked away from this gentleman with a smile on my face like this :), because I could already see my next host Babak. He and his friends took me to his place where I first in my life visited muslim family... to be continued, because now I am going to meet more nice people.
Monday, 30 May 2011
Further east
I have left Istanbul late because I did not get up on time for the morning train, which I was taking bit further behind this big city. And so I departed at 16:15 to Eskisehir. People in train were very curious, me and other foreign co-traveller and fresh friend Ansiau from Paris (whom I met in Istanbul 2 days earlier and with whom also I had my first real turk kahvesi and other) have been questioned and interviewed by random nearby sitting passengers. It did not matter we would not share the language, their curiosity found its way to answer its questions. It was nothing that would bother, everybody was very friendly and polite. I was sitting next to elder guy who after buying me a tasty simit with ayran started to give me a vocabulary lesson of Turkish language. During this journey Cheerko found a place for me to stay, I was once again well looked after. My host Oz in Eskisehir has come to pick me up from train station and after short introduction to his flatmates we went out to see Eskisehir's 'Soho' where many people gather in these late hours. After few turkish brewed goodies we chilled out on the top of the roof. In the morning after hearty breakfast I made my way away. 2nd autostoping success has taken me for Çay in a little village. We gained a bit atention from the locals, especialy young boys, who drank one round of tea with us, talking about my journeys and advising με the way to go. My 3rd and last ride this day was very special. It was a VW oldschool caravan loaded with happy people and good moods. We travelled around between Eskisehir and Ankara, visiting all-made-of-wood mosque, kite surfing and having a huge dinner before dropping me off in Ankara. That is where I am know ready for next adventure!))
Friday, 27 May 2011
Istanbul
is real crazy place, love it. Trafic make me laugh and cry at the same time. I am staying untıl tomorrow and then moving further south-east, been adviced to take middle way through this land(towards Ankara). Again I have met few fıne people, who have helped me and entertained too.
Prayer at 4:23am...
TEA-COFFEE-TEA-TEA-KEBAB
Teşekür ederim!))
edıt: I must apologıse to Atatürk and those who feel touched by me sayıng Istanbul was a capıtal. My lack of knowledge ıs not excusable. It took all to way to ANKARA and gettıng to know Mr Mustafa Kemal Atatürk and I fınaly know a lıttle more.
Thank you happy VW people for beautıful day !!!
edit2: Istanbul is a gate between east and west. It as a place where many different people have brought their piece of heart. It is a place where culture is explosive and history long-lasting. I will visit this place again!
edıt: I must apologıse to Atatürk and those who feel touched by me sayıng Istanbul was a capıtal. My lack of knowledge ıs not excusable. It took all to way to ANKARA and gettıng to know Mr Mustafa Kemal Atatürk and I fınaly know a lıttle more.
Thank you happy VW people for beautıful day !!!
edit2: Istanbul is a gate between east and west. It as a place where many different people have brought their piece of heart. It is a place where culture is explosive and history long-lasting. I will visit this place again!
Thursday, 26 May 2011
From Beograd to Bulgarıa, via Sofia to Istanbul
Why have I chosen autostop(hitch-hiking)?
It is fast way of travel, most of the time very comfortable and great opportunity to meet very nice people. So I started quiet late in Beograd towards Bulgaria, down to Nis. After a priest has given me few kilometer ride after Nis, smaller offroad car with Holland plates stopped near by me. Now I know that the guys name is Tsefa(I hope I spell it correctly:) and without many words said, he started to clear a bit of space for my little rucksack. In a momemt I have been munching on the best Holland vafels, on my way to Sofia. Lots of fun while talking and listening to Serbo-Bulgarian folk-rock band called CultureShock we reached the border in between these two countries. Suspicious border-police-guy started to search my wallet in hope to find a little for smoke to entertain his boring evening, me unfortunatelly had to disappoint him and say that I did not have any. After few km in Bulgaria Tsefa asked me whether I had some free time and my following answer cannot be more obvious... And so we landed in the middle of nowhere, or rather Bulgarayya countryside where peace and love have taken place. Barefooted walking around BulgaraYYa ArtHouse, fresh spring with quality water, girl called Petya joined our pleasant sessions. We made a little tour to top of the hill and later we warmed ourselves at the fires outside this lovely cottage. We rested until morning and then after refreshing shower outside using hose, Petya took me to Sofia, where we visited local markets so we could have late traditional Bulgarian cousine breakfast.
From there to Istanbul(600km) it took me around 12 hours to reach the place which I am writting now! (being also droven by policeman after shift;)
I have to mention one more thing, I was dropped 'at the gate' to Istanbul, from where when trying to share tasty melon with policemant I was finding my way to center, I have experianced a great care by stranger how I randomly chose in the street to ask for directions. He took me all to way to this cafe. This escort has taken almost 2 hours from his time, well ok, we managed to have coffe together too.
Now I am going to meet my host for tonight - shelter sorted. What more can I ask?
Yes, I love life and everything it brings with it!
It is fast way of travel, most of the time very comfortable and great opportunity to meet very nice people. So I started quiet late in Beograd towards Bulgaria, down to Nis. After a priest has given me few kilometer ride after Nis, smaller offroad car with Holland plates stopped near by me. Now I know that the guys name is Tsefa(I hope I spell it correctly:) and without many words said, he started to clear a bit of space for my little rucksack. In a momemt I have been munching on the best Holland vafels, on my way to Sofia. Lots of fun while talking and listening to Serbo-Bulgarian folk-rock band called CultureShock we reached the border in between these two countries. Suspicious border-police-guy started to search my wallet in hope to find a little for smoke to entertain his boring evening, me unfortunatelly had to disappoint him and say that I did not have any. After few km in Bulgaria Tsefa asked me whether I had some free time and my following answer cannot be more obvious... And so we landed in the middle of nowhere, or rather Bulgarayya countryside where peace and love have taken place. Barefooted walking around BulgaraYYa ArtHouse, fresh spring with quality water, girl called Petya joined our pleasant sessions. We made a little tour to top of the hill and later we warmed ourselves at the fires outside this lovely cottage. We rested until morning and then after refreshing shower outside using hose, Petya took me to Sofia, where we visited local markets so we could have late traditional Bulgarian cousine breakfast.
From there to Istanbul(600km) it took me around 12 hours to reach the place which I am writting now! (being also droven by policeman after shift;)
I have to mention one more thing, I was dropped 'at the gate' to Istanbul, from where when trying to share tasty melon with policemant I was finding my way to center, I have experianced a great care by stranger how I randomly chose in the street to ask for directions. He took me all to way to this cafe. This escort has taken almost 2 hours from his time, well ok, we managed to have coffe together too.
Now I am going to meet my host for tonight - shelter sorted. What more can I ask?
Yes, I love life and everything it brings with it!
Monday, 23 May 2011
Beograd
Friday I have started in the early afternoon, ending up just near Budapest when the sun was going down. I mounted my tent and spent the night near highway M0, junction 26 :). First time in my life I hitched a ride with a TAXI driver, slightly worried that he was going to ask for money, but he did not. Next morning I started early and 3rd success was taking me all the way to Beograd. I reached the Serbian capital in the afternoon and decided to have a look around the town and was hoping to find a host for night. I can say is that Serbian people here are very friendly and helpful what creates a warm atmosphere in this town. I have met few very nice people and made lot of new contacts when joining the CouchSurfing meeting and luckily found my host Adrian too. All these people were ready to rock&roll and showed me the night life in the city. It was totally awesome! Many thanks to Ivana, who let me know about this CS gathering.
Now it is time to leave for more adventures towards south and the capital of Bulgaria!
Now it is time to leave for more adventures towards south and the capital of Bulgaria!
Friday, 20 May 2011
Visa in my pocket
And so I am moving further! Heading south towards Budapest, Beograd, Sofia and Istanbul...
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