Steep, deep, won't retreat!

Driving a bus in Himalaya is an art of steering wheel. Passengers holding their breath when bus wobbling over deep chasm, loose edges of the road between Srinagar and Leh make a ride adrenaline experience. Bus was stopping half-way in Kirgil where dormitory near the bus stand became our overnight shelter, joining few other 'stuck' travelers in this little village discussing fair trade over a local cup of kahwa tea.
Leh is an ancient capital of Himalayan Kingdom, now such a beautiful place being destructed by development of this area, in last few decades when it was opened for tourism.
Overland accessibility only few months during a year makes number of visitors peak in mid summer. 3500 meters above sea level is good starting point for further adventure.
With couple of freshly made friends from Srinagar-Leh tour Jay and Lei we decided to find information about doable trek without professional guidance. United finger pointed the Digar on map searched.
Starting point was at Leh bus station, packed up with usual trekking gear and food for 2-3 days we left at around 17:30 reaching the far end of Saboo village 40 minutes later. There we started to walk following the river up the valley. Less than hour it took for sun to hide and under dusk we settled. To make a fire we collected dry grass and yak's feces which make very good fire fuel where there is no wood available.
Early next morning after munching local home-made apricot jam and bread we folded the tents and sleeping bags back into our rucksacks and started hiking further up the river. Constant not-too-steep ascend took several hours before we met first person going the opposite direction and so we were assured of correct way to the pass. Digar La was reached after non-easy 'free-walking' (when one can not find the path and takes whichever supposed the most enjoyable) over sharp rocks and final zig-zag 200-300 meters to total 5300. Headache and weakness wanted to overwhelm us but we did play hard. Great feeling when spotting the other side of a hill is sort of reward which need not many words, just inhaling fresh air and feeding eyes with rich views. After both eyes and stomachs fed we parted with Lei who had to head back to Leh to catch a flight back to Mumbai next day. So only Jay and me continued down hill towards the other-side camp which we managed to find in 2 hours.

One red and one dark green tent signified the site surrounded by Sherpas' horses and semi-wild yaks. First we tried to make a fire but supposedly such altitude and oxygen lack make it difficult. Being greeted by Sherpas I chopped onions and carrots which I then cooked on their stove adding in their salt and fresh spring water. Humble soup was later upgraded by Sherpa's tasty chilly-vegetable stew and crumbled toasting bread making it the best fit for a dinner at the time. While me preparing dinner Jay found a wooden box and other leftovers which we later used as fuel for warming fire. The night was very cold and we did not manage to sleep a lot. Waking up and little wash in a spring set us up for another hike, now towards the Digar village. Incredible wheat fields growing in local sandy soil allow these people to produce most of what they consume. Their remote position makes them almost completely self-sufficient, powered by little hydroelectric power plant and photovoltaic panels installed. Asking locals where we could seek for a place to obtain food, one of local families invited us to their home and provided the hospitality which is nothing unusual here. Very traditional Mountain Dew(r) and Tetley's lemon tea unfortunately proved presence of globalisation even in so difficultly accessed area, but family members and tasty local dish made all those unexpected materials look innocent. Saying our thanks and farewell journey continued through long and exhausting deserted plateaus. Walking was tiring but scenery rewarding and pushing us step forward. From the Digar village it was approximately 30 KM which we walked to more civillised place called Khalsar. Setting our new single day walking record to over 40 KM we had filling dinner at local tea/food house. Later we were accommodated at next door guesthouse which as we later found out was facilitated with no toilet nor bathroom and after short discussion with landlord I negotiated our stay for no more than 50 Rupees per person/night. Omelet breakfasts and wash in a river was good start for hitchhiking attempt towards Nubra Valley. Second car which was driven by a happy monk called Lotus picked us up and an entertainment took a place while reaching monastry in Somur. There we enjoyed a prayer and tea+bread hospitality.
Now three days passed since we left Leh and we decided to head back to town. Getting on those few passing vehicles did not turn up to be easiest. First part was traveled thanks to army truck and its agreeable crew. Finding ourselves back in Khalsar we were trying luck for couple of hours finalising our wait by defeat and unfull contacted car/shared taxi. Fast and furious were driver's throttle/break pedal pushing - steering wheel handling but assured we were by Insha'Allah. Well we survived even though not making it in time on after-fasting dinner.

Back in Leh. Now in Manali, local charas is a quality and many good climbing spots make me think of staying longer...